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Is there a better cam for me?

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Screenshot_2024-10-13-09-48-33-70_92460851df6f172a4592fca41cc2d2e6.jpg
 
Contact 68 hemi GTS here. He has run a six pac in the high 10 second range.

Doug
 
As said by others, 1ST thing to do would be to deg the cam, Those multi setting timming gears can be off, mine was, ALWAYS deg a cam, even if it is a stock rebuild.
 
Ross pistons 1.730 deck height.

That would be compression height, not deck height :thumbsup:


So you have a 470" engine with a hydraulic roller cam that doesn't run like a scalded dog? It should from all the components you have there.

I am not a fan of Hughes cams, but far less impressed with that cam lift.

From what I see the cam lift is far to low. I would want at least .540" lift and I wouldn't change to a 1.6 rocker. We run 5.42 in the 1/8 with 1.5 ratio rockers.

BBM's have a wonderful size cam lobe.

There is no point causing excess pressure on the valve train using larger ratio rockers for any lift less than .700" lift. Mine is .688" with a 1.5 ratio.


First thing I would ask, Was a degree wheel used on the build? If not that's probably your issue. You can't EVER assume a timing set is correct, or that a cam is ground correct.

I've seen engine that have had timing off 8 or 10 degrees, and while they run, they are not producing crisp power.

From what I've read there is absolutely no reason that engine shouldn't run great.

Tom
 
It is easier on the valve train to run 1.6 ratio than to have a high lift low duration camshaft with 1.5 ratio.
 
This ^^^^ cannot be made as a blanket statement because numerous variables are involved.
 
This ^^^^ cannot be made as a blanket statement because numerous variables are involved.
are you saying a short duration cam with a high lift is not hard on the valve train and cam wear. most of the time you need more valve spring pressure.
 
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No, what I am saying is that it is an apples-to-oranges comparison. You could have a very aggressive lobe using a 1.5 rocker that is harder on the valvetrain than a milder lobe used with a 1.6 rocker.
Here is an example, two Isky lobes. Solid flat tappet. Both have the same 050 duration of 250*.
Lobe #S-84 has 0.298" lobe lift and 144* duration @ 0.200" lift
Lobe # S-633 has 0.350" lobe lift & 162* duration @ 0.200" lift

If 1.6 rockers were used with the S-84. it will not he as hard on the valvetrain as the S-633 used with 1.5 rockers. Less valve lift, & lower acceleration rate of the valve train.
 
That would be compression height, not deck height :thumbsup:


So you have a 470" engine with a hydraulic roller cam that doesn't run like a scalded dog? It should from all the components you have there.

I am not a fan of Hughes cams, but far less impressed with that cam lift.

From what I see the cam lift is far to low. I would want at least .540" lift and I wouldn't change to a 1.6 rocker. We run 5.42 in the 1/8 with 1.5 ratio rockers.

BBM's have a wonderful size cam lobe.

There is no point causing excess pressure on the valve train using larger ratio rockers for any lift less than .700" lift. Mine is .688" with a 1.5 ratio.


First thing I would ask, Was a degree wheel used on the build? If not that's probably your issue. You can't EVER assume a timing set is correct, or that a cam is ground correct.

I've seen engine that have had timing off 8 or 10 degrees, and while they run, they are not producing crisp power.

From what I've read there is absolutely no reason that engine shouldn't run great.

Tom
Thanks for the input here .
This is exactly why I asked the question.
I feel the cam was a bit small when Hughes recommended it .
He said he likes it because it wasn't a long rod motor , so I took the expert advise.
My current plans are to be sure I am not running out of fuel on the big end.
If not then I will definitely degree the cam.
That will be my winter project .
I have almost zero time at the moment
Helping with elderly care.
But I really think a bigger cam is going to be the best thing.
 
Thanks for the input here .
This is exactly why I asked the question.
I feel the cam was a bit small when Hughes recommended it .
He said he likes it because it wasn't a long rod motor , so I took the expert advise.
My current plans are to be sure I am not running out of fuel on the big end.
If not then I will definitely degree the cam.
That will be my winter project .
I have almost zero time at the moment
Helping with elderly care.
But I really think a bigger cam is going to be the best thing.
When you do deg the cam, it would be a good time to make sure the timing marks on the balancer are correct.
 
This is exactly why I asked the question.
I feel the cam was a bit small when Hughes recommended it.

……..I really think a bigger cam is going to be the best thing.

I’m not sure what you are saying here. But to put it simply, your engine is way underperforming and it’s not due to the size of the cam.
 
I am just saying I don't think the lift on the cam I have is taking the full advantge.of the stroker motor's potential.
Some people would be very pleased the way my car runs to each their own .
I feel trouble to build the stroker at this point was wasted time and money.
A 440 could have gotten the same performance or better.
 
I am just saying I don't think the lift on the cam I have is taking the full advantge.of the stroker motor's potential.
Some people would be very pleased the way my car runs to each their own .
I feel trouble to build the stroker at this point was wasted time and money.
A 440 could have gotten the same performance or better.
The cylinder head flow will dictate what cam lift is optimal. And yes a 440 ( 446 @ .030, 452 @ .060) would perform the same, they're essentially the same . Rod length and deck height do not make dramatic changes to output.
 
Can the cam be degreed with the hyd roller lifters and current springs?
Do I need light weight valve check springs?
 
Can the cam be degreed with the hyd roller lifters and current springs?
Do I need light weight valve check springs?
Cam can be degreed with valvetrain in place. Dial indicator must measure travel of lifter body - not the plunger or rocker arm (with a hydraulic lifter anyway).
 
Hi everyone,
I been spending Alot of time reading and looking at cam lobe charts .
I am looking for best possible cam for my combination.
What do you guys think of this Hyd roller cam.
230/236 at .050
286/290 AVD
564/570 lift
On 108 LSA
Engine 10.8 compression 450 CID.
Stealth heads with valve job and 26120 beehive springs lightweight retainers.
1.5 crain gold rockers.
4 Speed 391 gears
Six pack carbs
TTI headers 2.5 exhaust with American thunder mufflers.
Electronic Ignition.
Holley 140 black fuel pump
Car 69 SuperBee with lift off hood.
Let's hear the yeas and nays !
 
Maybe elaborate what "best" your looking for? Horsepower, torque, drivabilty, fuel mileage, sound,etc
... best hydraulic roller seems to be one area you've selected?
The problem with cams is everything is a trade off. When you gain in one area you typically lose in another. It is a balance, you've likely already figured that out.

Nothing wrong with that particular cam. You could go bigger. But, that may not be what your looking for???
We are running this cam Below.. But our 440 is 11.2:1, e streets, single plane, and a automatic.
Trick Flow Specialties TFS-61602003 Trick Flow® Track Max® Hydraulic Roller Camshafts for Big Block Mopar | Trick Flow Specialties
 
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What I am looking for is hot street strip with fat tourqe curve
I was looking at the track max cam.
We already have the comp cams tool steel retainers and beehive springs so we been learning to comp roller.
I want a roudy, torque monster,with chop
That is what I mean Best for me.
 
I think that is pretty good for a shelf grind, 4 spd, & 3.91 axle. torque. Forgive me if I have already posted this 440 warning.

img282.jpg
 
With your gears I probably would go a cam bigger for more top end if it were my car. But if you want torque..that cam should be good for that.
 
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