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Is this cam too small for a 383/489 stroker?

I like that cam, i don't rev super high and i would rather slightly undercam than overcam if it's gonna be a driver.. i'm overcammed right now and it sounds amazing but will be annoying..
 
Great cam choice, put a six pak & stealth heads on top of it. Over-camming a stoker engine is very popular these days. Big hp numbers on the big rpm end don't mean squat when the tires ares spinning and brand x runs away.
 
Great cam choice, put a six pak & stealth heads on top of it. Over-camming a stoker engine is very popular these days. Big hp numbers on the big rpm end don't mean squat when the tires ares spinning and brand x runs away.
Thanks, that was the original plan and still a good option!
 
Bob Mazzolini Racing (Riverside Ca.) builds a lot or 432/383s and really make astonishing
power with them to my surprise. I would talked to them about the combo.

They do much better than the 400 engine builds. When I talked to them they said the 383
cylinder walls sonic test much thicker and have better ring seal. They are also a very inexpensive
build as the produced 6,000,000. 383 engines and parts are inexpensive (440 Crank cut down).

I was skeptical = However Bob and I have very similar 68/69 Valiants in weight. My stock stroke
440 plus 030 runs 10's and at the same track his 383/432 RUNS well in the 9's in the 1/4 with pretty
similar builds much to my embarrassment.

Bob and Ken apparently know their stuff much better than I do!
 
Bob Mazzolini Racing (Riverside Ca.) builds a lot or 432/383s and really make astonishing
power with them to my surprise. I would talked to them about the combo.

They do much better than the 400 engine builds. When I talked to them they said the 383
cylinder walls sonic test much thicker and have better ring seal. They are also a very inexpensive
build as the produced 6,000,000. 383 engines and parts are inexpensive (440 Crank cut down).

I was skeptical = However Bob and I have very similar 68/69 Valiants in weight. My stock stroke
440 plus 030 runs 10's and at the same track his 383/432 RUNS well in the 9's in the 1/4 with pretty
similar builds much to my embarrassment.

Bob and Ken apparently know their stuff much better than I do!
Thanks, I'll check him out. My goals are much more modest, I actually don't want to make more than around 500 HP and would be happy still with a little less out of this numbers matching motor. I think it was on the Motortrend.com site that I found another 383 stroker build where they got over 650HP on the dyno before one of the cylinder walls split. Definitely don't want to go down the same path if I can avoid it! Thanks, Jim
 
I read either here, or A-bodies, that Bob Mazzolini is having some serious health problems, and might be in the process of closing his shop. Better call soon.
 
Diamond 59150 pistons, 6.7” BBC rods, 440 forged crank offset ground to BBC journals and 3.915 stroke in a 383 = 451. Put the numbers matching motor away and get another block.

IMG_0422.jpeg
 
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On 500ish Strokers, does anyone hear use any block stiffeners, girdles, cross bolted caps, etc.? Thx

Complete waste with the cam and power level you are looking at.

Unnecessary aftermarket parts just give an added opportunity for failure.

OP is looking for 450-500 hp, street car, with rock solid reliability, with a 383 block.
 
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FWIW, RPM International has 4340 low deck stroker cranks (std 6-bolt flange), and some RB block stroker cranks with 8 bolt flanges for $499.
The more common 6-bolt flange 4.25" stroke RB cranks are $771.
I ordered a low deck 4.25" crank and some rods. Free shipping too.
Cranks
 
Jumpin in here with this. Years ago I was told running anything other that solid lifters was a waste of time. Said Hydraulic lifters float out to easily. Anyone care to prove validity or falsehood?
 
Jumpin in here with this. Years ago I was told running anything other that solid lifters was a waste of time. Said Hydraulic lifters float out to easily. Anyone care to prove validity or falsehood?
Not true.
A solid will eventually show more RPM , but a hydraulic can handle 6500- to 7 with the correct lifter and spring.
 
I have a 440 with CNC Stealths, RPM Airgap, 750 Holley DP. Flat tops ,headers, and an Isky 292 mega cam. 292 adv, 242@ 050, 500 lift, 108 lsa,104 icl. Nice idle, great response,shift it at 6000. Easy on parts. This is my give it to the grand kid when I die car too.
 
I have a 440 with CNC Stealths, RPM Airgap, 750 Holley DP. Flat tops ,headers, and an Isky 292 mega cam. 292 adv, 242@ 050, 500 lift, 108 lsa,104 icl. Nice idle, great response,shift it at 6000. Easy on parts. This is my give it to the grand kid when I die car too.
Working on doing the samething.
 
I already have this cam for a 383/432 build. I'm now considering a 383/489 build for 1) a stock 'looking' build with 906 heads, exhaust manifolds and DP4B intake or 2) CNC'd Stealth heads, headers, and probably a six pack setup. I'd like some decent lope but nothing too radical. Will this cam work for one or both options?


20230712 Lunati Voodoo Retro Fit 3 Bolt Hydraulic Roller Camshaft BB Chrysler
Lunati's Voodoo Series deliver more area under the curve than any other series. This means more throttle response, quicker acceleration, more vacuum, and better efficiency. These factors, combined with max hp and torque, make Voodoo cams the best choice for a wide range of high-performance applications

This 1958+ Big Block Chrysler V8 361-440 is designed as a high performance street cam. Likes upgraded intake, carb, and exhaust. Needs 2800 RPM stall converter in most cases. Requires 9.5:1 compression for maximum performance


Vehicle MakeBB Chrysler, Chrysler
Camshaft TypeHydraulic Roller
RPM Range2200 to 6200
Intake Lift0.535
Exhaust Lift0.550
Intake Duration at 50231
Exhaust Duration at 50239
Advertised Intake Duration282
Advertised Exhaust Duration290
Camshaft SeriesVoodoo
Valve SettingHydraulic
Lobe Separation Angle110
WHY NOT ask a couple of cam vendors for their recommendations based on your desires and practical limits and your budget and ultimate use (race only, race/street, street) of the vehicle rear gear, car weight, etc. Whom ever you select, buy their entire offering....lifters, springs, push rods, cam drive, etc. Be truthful not just a wish list.....not what your buddy thinks is best.....or take the peace mill approach and use several different suppliers.....then wonder why things don't yield/perform to your expectations........just my opinion.....
BOB RENTON
 
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