JamieZ's 68 Charger
- Thread starter JamieZ
- Start date
JamieZ
Well-Known Member
The smaller parts take 2-3 days:
1) Toss parts in bucket. Let sit over night.
2) Pull parts out, scrub with wire brush. Toss them back in the bucket for another overnighter.
3) Pull parts out a second time, scrub with wire brush. Toss them back in the bucket for the final overnight.
4) Remove parts for the last time, brush, clean and dry
The UCA, LCA, and Strut don't fit completely in the bucket I was using so I did steps 1-3, then rotated the part and did steps 1-3 again. In the end they took about a week.
Scrubbing them with the brush took less than an hour most nights. It's just to break off some of the loose crud and help the evaporust work it's way in.
A stronger mix of evaporust might work quicker, but I just used the stuff I had on hand and the rest of the mix was water...probably about 75% water by volume. If I was going to do a lot of parts, I'd probably have gone 50%+
1) Toss parts in bucket. Let sit over night.
2) Pull parts out, scrub with wire brush. Toss them back in the bucket for another overnighter.
3) Pull parts out a second time, scrub with wire brush. Toss them back in the bucket for the final overnight.
4) Remove parts for the last time, brush, clean and dry
The UCA, LCA, and Strut don't fit completely in the bucket I was using so I did steps 1-3, then rotated the part and did steps 1-3 again. In the end they took about a week.
Scrubbing them with the brush took less than an hour most nights. It's just to break off some of the loose crud and help the evaporust work it's way in.
A stronger mix of evaporust might work quicker, but I just used the stuff I had on hand and the rest of the mix was water...probably about 75% water by volume. If I was going to do a lot of parts, I'd probably have gone 50%+
JamieZ
Well-Known Member
Hit the suspension pieces with some chassis black.
Added some metal back into the frame rail, I'll be putting a safe-t-cap piece over it once I get it fitted.
I had to pull the K frame bolt out, as the cap fits around it. You can see how much of the bolt was eaten by the metal worm:
Added some metal back into the frame rail, I'll be putting a safe-t-cap piece over it once I get it fitted.
I had to pull the K frame bolt out, as the cap fits around it. You can see how much of the bolt was eaten by the metal worm:
JamieZ
Well-Known Member
Lots of work repairing the frame rail over the last few weeks. I fitted the Safe-t-cap piece, got everything welded back together. Fabricated a top piece to cover the section under the UCA bracket, welded that in, then painted every thing. Once that was done I started bolting pieces back onto the car. This is where I ended up:
Unfortunately I had an issue with one of the UAC bushings and will have to order a new one (my fault). I still need to torque, grease and pin everything, but it went back together a lot easier than it came apart....well except for that stupid lower ball joint dust boot.
Unfortunately I had an issue with one of the UAC bushings and will have to order a new one (my fault). I still need to torque, grease and pin everything, but it went back together a lot easier than it came apart....well except for that stupid lower ball joint dust boot.
Ron 73
Deceased, But not forgotton
That must have been some tedious work there, and it looks real good! Thats tuff having to do this kind of repairs, looks real good!!!
JamieZ
Well-Known Member
I'm a newbie welder at best, and welding the underside just plain sucked. If I had more time and material, it would have been great to do a few practice runs. A lift to get the car higher off the ground would have been great too. The engine bay welds were not fun either as access was equally limited and had to be done from the floor. At least for those the weld was horizontal.
Still it's solid and with some black paint on it buried in the wheel well/engine bay it's not too bad. But I won't be welding any finished sheet metal any time soon
Still it's solid and with some black paint on it buried in the wheel well/engine bay it's not too bad. But I won't be welding any finished sheet metal any time soon
JamieZ
Well-Known Member
Removed the damaged UCA bushing and pressed a new one in. Then after a lot of persuading with the rubber mallet I reinstalled the UCA. I then tightened, pinned, and lubed everything.
After that it was time to slap on a wheel....and now it looks like a real car once again:
Now all I have to do is remove the old master, install the new booster / master. Bleed everything. Balance the wheels, do an alignment, etc
After that it was time to slap on a wheel....and now it looks like a real car once again:
Now all I have to do is remove the old master, install the new booster / master. Bleed everything. Balance the wheels, do an alignment, etc
Ron 73
Deceased, But not forgotton
Love to see the whole car as nice as that P-side front looks! Thats great work to get it right and those wheels really look good on it!
JamieZ
Well-Known Member
I bolted up the sway bar, that was the last piece of suspension that needed to be attached. I tried the stock brackets, but getting the bushings in was just going to be too much of a headache so I picked up a pair of Energy Suspension ones that are greasable:
I also balanced the wheels using the bubble balancer:
And finally I put all 4 tires on and dropped it to the ground:
It's been a long time since it was off jack stands. I still have to swap the studs out in the driver's side rear but that's something I can do at a later date.
Next on my list is pulling the dash out so I can pull the master and mount my new booster/master. I also picked up a new speedo cable, it looks like the old one was burnt and now is the time
I also balanced the wheels using the bubble balancer:
And finally I put all 4 tires on and dropped it to the ground:
It's been a long time since it was off jack stands. I still have to swap the studs out in the driver's side rear but that's something I can do at a later date.
Next on my list is pulling the dash out so I can pull the master and mount my new booster/master. I also picked up a new speedo cable, it looks like the old one was burnt and now is the time
Ron 73
Deceased, But not forgotton
Ive never seen one of those "bubble balancer" that's pretty cool, i guess i need to get out more!!! Real nice and thanks!
JamieZ
Well-Known Member
Bubble balancing is old school. It only statically balances the tire. Dynamic balancing performed by modern wheel balancers at a tire shop is actually better, but I don't have a lot of luck with tire shops and prefer to do the work myself. Plus bubble balancing was used for ages so it should be good enough for my street car
Ron 73
Deceased, But not forgotton
I agree, I cant see why it would cause a problem, i only used the shop who put the tires on, but this is a tool i wouldn't mind having here!!
JamieZ
Well-Known Member
I do not see how anyone could get the passenger side top nut out of the master cylinder with the AC and steering column in place, especially with a manual transmission and the clutch pedal always in the way.
In the end, I used the angle grinder to lop off the head of the stud and drove the stud back through the firewall. Worked like a charm. Since I wasn't planning on reusing any of it, I wasn't overly concerned about the damage....but I could always get a replacement stud if needed.
The upper bolts for the plate are a lot easier to get as they are just a straight shot with a long (16" + ) extension.
In the end, I used the angle grinder to lop off the head of the stud and drove the stud back through the firewall. Worked like a charm. Since I wasn't planning on reusing any of it, I wasn't overly concerned about the damage....but I could always get a replacement stud if needed.
The upper bolts for the plate are a lot easier to get as they are just a straight shot with a long (16" + ) extension.
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JamieZ
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I got the booster on...and was happy....for about 2 hours and then I figured out how the pedal linkage was designed to install. Next day I tried a few things to get it installed, but no luck the booster had to come back out so I could install the pedal linkage. I managed to get it installed, bleed the master, and get that installed as well:
Everything will look much better once I have a chance to get the car out of the garage and clean it.
Hooking up the vacuum hose of the booster, I found what I thought was a cap on the vacuum tree was actually just a piece of hose with a bolt shoved into it....not even any sealant.
Sigh
Once I get the brakes bled and the speedo cable replaced, I'll put the dash in and get working on the alignment.
Everything will look much better once I have a chance to get the car out of the garage and clean it.
Hooking up the vacuum hose of the booster, I found what I thought was a cap on the vacuum tree was actually just a piece of hose with a bolt shoved into it....not even any sealant.
Sigh
Once I get the brakes bled and the speedo cable replaced, I'll put the dash in and get working on the alignment.
Ron 73
Deceased, But not forgotton
Caught again! You would turn me in man! oh well, its been worse but that would be a private admitted tale, which im just not real comfortable with telling you yet! Give me time Mr. Cranium sir!
Jamie watching you do all this thru out your build, im sure you'll get-er right for sure!!!
JamieZ
Well-Known Member
Well I spent the week trying to bleed the brakes..to no avail. It seems like something is wrong with the master. If I bench bleed it, I get fluid flow into the large chamber, but fluid just stops flowing to the top. Let it sit for a few minutes and I get another squirt or two to the small chamber then nothing. I've contacted DrDiff to see what he says, but for now I'm stuck.
So the weekend wasn't a total loss I swapped the wheel studs on the driver's side rear. After the disc brake swap it was the only wheel using wrong hand threads.
So the weekend wasn't a total loss I swapped the wheel studs on the driver's side rear. After the disc brake swap it was the only wheel using wrong hand threads.
Ron 73
Deceased, But not forgotton
Usually don't help but it least it wasn't a waste of time and being in the shop and getting anything done is a plus and one other thing you wont have to do later! Like i said it doesn't usually help but with me, everything counts, one way or the other, getting close to kick down, patience does wear thin
JamieZ
Well-Known Member
Picked up a new master cylinder of eBay. It is not quite the same style, as it is for a later B body/E body but it bench bled without any issue. I mounted it to the car and bled the brakes without issue. Glad that's out of the way.
Started on the alignment, but after a few minutes it became clear I had no idea what I was doing.
I've been doing some reading and think I have a better idea of which way to turn what bolt.
Started on the alignment, but after a few minutes it became clear I had no idea what I was doing.
I've been doing some reading and think I have a better idea of which way to turn what bolt.
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