just a little off the back and sides please

[eldubb440]

"they didn't fit very well from the factory"....... is never an excuse to be lazy.

Panel fit is where the game is won and lost. That little bit of filler work around the edges goes a long way. The true artistry always gets buried under primer and paint.......I say "clearcoat that ****!"

 

[eldubb440]

finished blasting up front, primed up, cowl back on.......looking like a car again

 

[moparwacko]

You Sir are an artist!

You've inspired me to do the body and paint on my 64 D100.
So far I've purchased a mig welder and a board sander. (Already have a compressor).
Is there anything else I'm really going to need?

 

[moparwacko]

AMC Ambassador?

 

[eldubb440]

You Sir are an artist!

Is there anything else I'm really going to need?

Thank You! ......... and yes, lots of elbow grease and ibuprofen, it freakin hurts

this stuff will keep you young as it's killing you.........

AMC Ambassador?

Rebel

 

[HawkRod]

You Sir are an artist!

 

[Robking]

Sorry to jump back on your thread eldubb, but looking to see if you (or anyone else) has any advice before I start tacking the tail back on (had to put it aside for a few months, finally back on it).

I test fit the extensions, they seem to line up well with the body line across the tail panel.

I have it all clamped up and ready to clean the weld thru primer out of the holes and start pluggin' holes. You can't really see it but there is a spreader in there keeping the sides the right spacing to keep my trunk edge gaps parallel.

Fits pretty well all in all (this is not the original tail panel, came off a southwest car that had some dings in it but very little rust).

If there are any gotchas I should check before I start welding I sure would appreciate a heads up as it ain't coming back apart...

Thanks!

 

[Cranky]

and yes, lots of elbow grease and ibuprofen, it freakin hurts

this stuff will keep you young as it's killing you.........

During the last few years my shop has been my savior as far as keeping me sane goes....but lately my back and knees are saying enough already.

 

[eldubb440]

Sorry to jump back on your thread eldubb, but looking to see if you (or anyone else) has any advice before I start tacking the tail back on (had to put it aside for a few months, finally back on it).

I test fit the extensions, they seem to line up well with the body line across the tail panel.

View attachment 1439967

I have it all clamped up and ready to clean the weld thru primer out of the holes and start pluggin' holes. You can't really see it but there is a spreader in there keeping the sides the right spacing to keep my trunk edge gaps parallel.

View attachment 1439966

Fits pretty well all in all (this is not the original tail panel, came off a southwest car that had some dings in it but very little rust).

If there are any gotchas I should check before I start welding I sure would appreciate a heads up as it ain't coming back apart...

Thanks!

put a couple tacks where the clamps are in the trunk opening.......remove the clamps and close the trunk lid..... see what ya got, then fit the extensions

 

[Robking]

put a couple tacks where the clamps are in the trunk opening.......remove the clamps and close the trunk lid..... see what ya got, then fit the extensions

Thanks, I was thinking that might be a good first place to tack, just to free my long clamps up for other spots. Definitely can't double check too many times.

Seems like the holes for the quarter extension mounting screws might have been used at the factory for alignment with the cutouts in the tail panel?

 

[Robking]

put a couple tacks where the clamps are in the trunk opening.......remove the clamps and close the trunk lid..... see what ya got, then fit the extensions

All in all pretty happy with how it fits up. With the gaps parallel on the trunk lid, the rear edge of trunk lid on the drivers side is about 1/16" further back than the passenger side, but for a car that's been smacked in the *** at least once and is just supposed to be a driver I think it will be ok. I'm afraid if I try to tweak it to one side I may just make it worse.

Thanks for all the great advice eldubb440, I'm gonna finish welding this thing up and call this part of the project done.

 

[eldubb440]

little update.....was sidetracked a few weeks working on the house.....

anyway, pass side door and fender each needed a patch. I also had to fight the pass side fender every time I put it on; I discovered it was attached to the vertical brace crooked at the bottom, it actually was kicking out almost an inch behind the tire....... it required more surgery than the pics would indicate, the fender simply didn't fit without prying it into place, and was holding a lot of tension when bolted on...... this fender was the hidden issue, every car has one lol

I found unlike 68-70, the exaggerated body lines on the 66 and 67 make for inconsistent gaps..... ranging from an 1/8 in the tight spots, and a full 1/4 at the wide points....my ADHD will not allow it.....doesn't look like a lot, but there's at least a couple/few days here........ the good news is, my bodywork is 90% roughed in on this beast and I'll soon be on cruise control.....

 

[HawkRod]

little update.....was sidetracked a few weeks working on the house.....

anyway, pass side door and fender each needed a patch. I also had to fight the pass side fender every time I put it on; I discovered it was attached to the vertical brace crooked at the bottom, it actually was kicking out about 1/2 inch behind the tire....... it required more surgery than the pics would indicate, the fender simply didn't fit without prying it into place, and was holding a lot of tension when bolted on...... this fender was the hidden issue, every car has one lol

I found unlike 68-70, the exaggerated body lines on the 66 and 67 make for inconsistent gaps..... ranging from an 1/8 in the tight spots, and a full 1/4 at the wide points....my ADHD will not allow it.....doesn't look like a lot, but there's at least a couple/few days here........ the good news is, my bodywork is 90% roughed in on this beast and I'll soon be on cruise control.....

View attachment 1451962
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View attachment 1451964
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View attachment 1451968

Looks great!

Hopefully I can get @67BluonBlak 's 440 going too and make some good progress on that. It would be good to be able to slap the whole K-member and driveline in when the body is ready...

 

[eldubb440]

over 3 weeks? damn distractions......

split the hood open...... little nastier than expected, will blast the frame; skin has been soaking in molasses while other things get done

 

[eldubb440]

nothing glamerous.....frame connectors firmly tacked into place

necessary fuel and brake lines will stay and get wrapped up good for the rest of the process

 

[HawkRod]

over 3 weeks? damn distractions......

split the hood open...... little nastier than expected, will blast the frame; skin has been soaking in molasses while other things get done

View attachment 1463610

In a couple of weeks, @eldubb440 will be selling shoo fly pies!

 

[eldubb440]

In a couple of weeks, @eldubb440 will be selling shoo fly pies!

no flies! ....... not even an ant....... I seem to have made it air tight....... we have some bubble action, and a little trapped gas, something must be happening

 

[HawkRod]

..... we have some bubble action, and a little trapped gas, something must be happening

I have some trapped gas too, but that's another story..................

 

[roddodge]

I am really enjoying this thread.
I'm doing a lot of metal replacement and used the Bloxide primer you suggested. My question is what paint products are you putting on top of the weldable primer? From what I understand it is an etch primer?
And nobody wants you to mix products.
Thanks for your time.

 

[Robking]

over 3 weeks? damn distractions......

split the hood open...... little nastier than expected, will blast the frame; skin has been soaking in molasses while other things get done

View attachment 1463610

Pretty damn cool.

I have a 68 Coronet trunk lid that I feel like is fixable (skin is good except for bottom lip but frame needs bit of work). Is it as simple as drilling the spots out and then gently prying the lip all the way around? I'd like to take a crack at fixing it down the road, have a glass one for now.