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Lakewood bellhousing clutch fork/spring issue

andrewwoz

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Having trouble keeping the throwout bearing off the clutch fingers after getting the motor and trans back into the car with the lakewood bellhousing

Setup - 69 b body, 440 big block, passon hemi OD a833, lakewood bellhousing, 11" billet flywheel, mcleod twin disc clutch.

After struggling with the ball stud location on the lakewood bellhousing and finally making a custom bracket to get the z bar working correctly I am running into issues with the TO bearing not pulling away from the clutch fingers, the clutch fork seems to pull off/away from the pivot, I am wondering if the spring tab/retainer is worn out? I have the return spring in one of the holes on the bellhousing and its pulling it pretty straight so I think that is alright. I can pull the fork back and it stays and leaves a gap but cycling the clutch leaves it back in contact. The TO bearing moved nicely on the bearing retainer, I did apply a very light coat of grease.

Just wondering if anyone else has ran into this.

Here are some photos

Fork off pivot

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TO bearing contacting fingers while fork is off pivot

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After pulling fork back onto the pivot

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TO bearing pulls away from fingers

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Most likely its from the bracket you made. Does not look right to me. Is the pedal returning? Is there an over center spring on the pedal? Give it some more free play. For what its worth the bearing rides on the fingers on hydraulic clutch applications.
 
Most likely its from the bracket you made. Does not look right to me. Is the pedal returning? Is there an over center spring on the pedal? Give it some more free play. For what its worth the bearing rides on the fingers on hydraulic clutch applications.

What doesnt look right exactly? The bracket I made corrected the bracket on the lakewood bell that had the ballstud way out of whack, I made a jig on the stock bell that I then transfered to the lakewood to make the bracket and locate the ball stud in the same location.

Pedal returns fine, over center spring is gone as I'm running a diaphragm clutch. I have tried it adjusted loose but when I pull the fork back I end up with like over 1/2" gap between the fingers and bearing
 
What doesnt look right exactly? The bracket I made corrected the bracket on the lakewood bell that had the ballstud way out of whack, I made a jig on the stock bell that I then transfered to the lakewood to make the bracket and locate the ball stud in the same location.

Pedal returns fine, over center spring is gone as I'm running a diaphragm clutch. I have tried it adjusted loose but when I pull the fork back I end up with like over 1/2" gap between the fingers and bearing
It looks like the bracket is to wide and possibly binding on the web of the fork. Where is the return spring attached? If you take the rod off does the spring pull it of the fingers?
 
I can’t say what your problem is, but with my Lakewood setup, the clutch fork pivot was too far from the centerline.
I tried a couple of different pivots but ended up making a custom pivot.
 
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