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Let's diagnose the ticking sound in the 383.

SteveSS

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We had the original engine rebuilt about 12 years ago. It was started but never run for very long. We heard a ticking right from the start but we put it down to cheap exhaust gaskets. Then it sat. Fast forward to this year and we're almost done with the car. We pulled the headers and put in some thick expensive gaskets. I have to say the ticking is worse. My mechabic thinks it's more coming from the top of the engine on the driver's side.

Before I start taking it apart I'd like to hear your ideas.

Things like what to teqr into first.
 
Rule out the exhaust leak is gone, properly. Then move on with a stethoscope.
 
If the lifters are hyd, probably a lifter that did not pump up. Might come good with some run time.
 
What type rocker arms

Pull valve covers and look for proper oil flow amongst everything valve train related
 
""My mechabic thinks it's more coming from the top of the engine on the driver's side""

This should be narrowed down before starting I think.
 
If it's an new one, check the fuel pump pushrod.
 
Assuming stock valvetrain, and based on what has been said, I would be pulling the driver's side valve cover and finding which rocker is sloppy and how much. From there, you either run it a little more and see if the lifter pumps up, or take the intake manifold off and inspect the lifters and lobes.
 
It’s not uncommon to put a rocker shaft on wrong with the oil holes pointing the wrong way. Or up instead of down Or is that only a small block problem? Kim
 
It’s not uncommon to put a rocker shaft on wrong with the oil holes pointing the wrong way. Or up instead of down Or is that only a small block problem? Kim
It's a big block problem as
well.
 
I wouldn't rule out the
headers as of yet.
The questions I have are;
Is it a good quality set of
headers w/3/8" min.
flanges?
Are the welds from tubes
to flanges good quality?
I only bring this up as you
stated the tick got worse
after changing the gaskets.
If the flanges are thin, with
the thicker gasket they will
tend to bow between the
mounting bolts.
 
My Hooker headers have leaked since I bought them, tried every type gasket there is and still leak. Have new set of Doug's Headers for the rebuild.
 
See what is on it for heads. I know you said it's a 383 but check for 452 heads.
Some of those have a casting ridge that runs along the top of the exhaust ports.
Some header flanges do not clear that ridge.
 
My Hooker headers have leaked since I bought them, tried every type gasket there is and still leak. Have new set of Doug's Headers for the rebuild.
Did you do anything other than buy new gaskets and another set of headers ?
 
Did you do anything other than buy new gaskets and another set of headers ?
No, everything I read said that Hooker Comp Headers had a tendency to leak due to warped / uneven flanges. I got it mostly fixed with the last gaskets I used and just put up with a less noticeable ticking. The Hedman headers I had before the hookers wouldn't clear the mini starter which is why I went with the Hookers in the first place.
 
No, everything I read said that Hooker Comp Headers had a tendency to leak due to warped / uneven flanges. I got it mostly fixed with the last gaskets I used and just put up with a less noticeable ticking. The Hedman headers I had before the hookers wouldn't clear the mini starter which is why I went with the Hookers in the first place.
I've had Comps on several cars over 50+ years, not one leaked. Other brands, as well. Not to mention installs I did for customers back in the day. How is that possible you ask ? Do you have a straightedge ?
 
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