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Lookie what $5000 buys you....

A guy on a Youtube video made a big deal about unshrouding but only concentrated on the Intake valves.



**Warning**
He talks LOUD as if he has never used ear protection!
 
I am having all sorts of fun here. It has been fun doing things out of my skill set but the helpful advice I'm getting gives me the confidence to try.


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One to one scale. Glue and paint sold separately.
 
Yeah.....No kids to feed here except the dogs. Where else am I going to spend the money ??
 
Kern Dog you can donate to my build still need seat covers possibly front and rear door panels. Just saying all l got is a wife a dog and a 69 charger to support
 
Kern if I can remember I will try and take a few pictures of the heads I did the DC port replaces on for you. Also you want a little bit smaller port window on exhaust side to help it reversion.
 
Like I wrote before, I have zero experience with this stuff so I just did what made sense to me. No extensive reshaping of anything. The Uncle Tony's Garage video showed how to clean up the ports to eliminate irregular shapes, knock down casting flash and round off any sharp edges.

Porting 1 E.jpg


This was done using a metal carbide burr in an air powered die grinder.

I cleaned up the sharp edges around the valve guide bosses.

Porting 1 H.jpg
 
I wish the picture were bigger. I did the exhaust ports first.
I took the step out that was below each exhaust valve seat and blended into the ports from there. I've read that the "floor" of the exhaust valve should be left alone so I didn't spend much time there except to blend up a little from where the valve seat ended.View attachment 951222

Porting 2.jpg View attachment 951244
 
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Intake ports were easier. The valve guide bosses required less work and the working area was bigger.
Porting 1 G.jpg
 
I posted about head porting over at YellowBullet.com. It is a drag racing site. Although this is not a race engine, I figured to see what some of those guys think.
Some thought that porting the exhaust openings was pointless. That sucks! I opened these up to match the gaskets and blended into the bowl too!
Porting 1 S.jpg
Porting 1 T.jpg

Their assertion was that the gains there could be minimal if at all. I merely took approx 1/8" of the perimeter off and blended it. See before picture:

346 E 1.jpg


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The intake ports above had some erosion on the edges that I couldn't port past for risk of a poor gasket seal. I've read that some use JB Weld to fix porting mistakes...Seems strange but I have read it several times. Maybe it would help here?
 
I will certainly port match the intake. I've seen where some were crooked.
1WildR/T suggested that I unshroud the valves. I took a head gasket and traced the wire ring then tapered the edge of the combustion chambers.

Porting 1 U.jpg
:eek:

I guess the only way to know if any of this made a difference is to put these and a stock pair on a flow bench.
I wonder what that would cost? I'm trying to do this on a reasonable budget.....
 
From what I have read, you will get some gains out of it. Thanks for showcasing this on your thread, I also want to do this to mine. I am interested to see what you think of it all when you are done.
I would be a bit concerned about JB Weld in this situation. Its great stuff, but would be worried about using it in this application.
 
The racer guys claim the JB Weld stays in place on the intake side with good prep but heavily advise against it for the exhaust side.
I have no experience so I can only repeat what I have heard.
Some claim that the stock heads are too small for a 440. The argument is that the Hemi had 14 less inches but had bigger ports.
If this is true, maybe there are gains to be found in almost any port work. I can see that smoothing out bumps, casting flash and blending around the valve guide bosses should, in theory, be an improvement.

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This is probably not worth it if I had to pay a pro. Everyone says that aluminum heads are better from the start and even more so with some attention. I'm just putting a basic iron block/iron head engine together and figured that for the heck of it, I'd spend my own time to see if I can squeak out a little more power.
 
I agree, how can it not be an improvement? From the video you posted (Uncle Tony's Garage), I think I remember him saying up to 30hp. I might be talking out a hole in my *** with that and would need to watch it again to verify, but anyway there are valid gains I think. He stressed to not take too much and I will be following that mantra. I am enjoying your work on Jigsaw Greg, good luck forging ahead.
 
Kern Dog if l understand what you did to your combustion chamber not a good idea. You never decrease your combustion, More combustion more power less combustion less power. Everything else you've done will help increase your power. And that's what ya want rite. But grinding on the chamber to match the head gasket is a very bad idea. Sorry now to get back what ya lost you will have to plane the heads and block to gain back what ya just lost
 
Kern Dog if l understand what you did to your combustion chamber not a good idea. You never decrease your combustion, More combustion more power less combustion less power. Everything else you've done will help increase your power. And that's what ya want rite. But grinding on the chamber to match the head gasket is a very bad idea.

Not much was taken out. I just tapered the edges near the outside edge of the valves.
The theory is to allow a smoother path around the valve for flow. The term is "Unshrouding the valves" and as I understand it, it is beneficial.
Again, I am learning as I go here.
 
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