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Looks Like I'm Stuck With a Motorhome Block

Nothing wrong with a MH block. A lot of times they are low miles and not too abused. Mine came from a 1978 class C MH with the short tranny/e-brake, and only had 278 miles on the motor. Now it's a 512 stroker with 647 HP and 677 TQ. I've heard that these are usually good motors because they were less likely to have as much core shift as the early blocks.
 
Looks like FEETS ride also. Tell us more. I hear 800 ft lbs of torque out of stock longblock with cam, valve springs and twins.
Man, haven't talked to Feets in a long time! He stopped by the house when he was in town with his Dodge diesel and that thing was boosted up pretty good too. Last time I saw his car was at the Mopar show and race and that show hasn't been in town in years. :(
 
Man, haven't talked to Feets in a long time! He stopped by the house when he was in town with his Dodge diesel and that thing was boosted up pretty good too. Last time I saw his car was at the Mopar show and race and that show hasn't been in town in years. :(


If Im not mistaken his 65 plymouth started out life as a stock long block 78 452 headed motorhome job with small twins and he kept twisting input shafts at low boost on that in his a833...
 
Stock motorhome torque converters are often 12" units that stall quite low. I am going to use one in my 75 440 4wd Power Wagon when I convert it from the 4 speed to the 727. I want it to start moving with just a tip of the gas.
 
I am running a 77 motor home 440 in my 71 rr and frankly, I couldn't be happier with it. Again as mentioned before, they have larger cooling jackets. I am running a 22" radiator, purchased new, and have never had it get above the "normal" line. The only thing I really had to do was to replace the valve covers with car style ones. I didn't do the engine rebuild so I really don't know about the compression, cam, etc. Honestly, don't think of being stuck with a motor home block, just set it up properly and enjoy!View attachment 290138

They are also identifiable by the peanut looking water passages on the deck, 'larger coolant passages'.
 
Also going out to look at a 74 Imperial wagon today it it doesn't rain. Brakes went out on it three years ago and owner parked it then died. Friend of his inherited it and is looking to get rid of it. Has a 8.75 rear, but those things are so wide they aren't good for anything else. Guy says the car is rusted out, but so what.
 
Also going out to look at a 74 Imperial wagon today it it doesn't rain. Brakes went out on it three years ago and owner parked it then died. Friend of his inherited it and is looking to get rid of it. Has a 8.75 rear, but those things are so wide they aren't good for anything else. Guy says the car is rusted out, but so what.


They didnt make an imperial wagon.

Crawl under it and look it may have a 8 3/4 in it and could possibly a sure grip unit.

Let me have his name and number if you pass on it.

Dan
 
It might be a Town and Country....and the 8 3/4 was pretty much discontinued by then except for being used in the E body cars but they did show up here and there until supply dried up.
 
It might be a Town and Country....and the 8 3/4 was pretty much discontinued by then except for being used in the E body cars but they did show up here and there until supply dried up.


Exactly.
 
I'm stuck with one of those motor home blocks too! Runs great! unnamed22QQ7DVW.jpg
 
It might be a Town and Country....and the 8 3/4 was pretty much discontinued by then except for being used in the E body cars but they did show up here and there until supply dried up.

He claims it's an 8.75, so who knows. I was only going to be interested in the center if it's a Sure Grip as the assembly is way too wide for pretty much anything but a station wagon.

- - - Updated - - -

They didnt make an imperial wagon.

Crawl under it and look it may have a 8 3/4 in it and could possibly a sure grip unit.

Let me have his name and number if you pass on it.

Dan

Will do. If I get it, I'll likely just be using the engine/trans. Is there anything else on there you could use?
 
Yep I'm stuck with a 75-77 440. Looked inside the dizzy hole and the cam and lifters looked like new. Turned freely exhaust valves just look a little slugey and it needs a pressure washing with gunk then needs painted along with the proper water pump and a new intake.
 
C body 8 3/4 axle shafts have a lot of meat near the spline ends and can be cut and re-splined to work in almost any housing.

The housing could be cut down as well.

Lots of A body guys used to look for C body units because of this.

By contrast, B body axles taper (or are thinner) and can't be re-splined like a C body can.
 
I have a 4T 440 T with a whopping [SIZE=-1]230hp @ 3600 rpm. Ha ha . These old RV motors can make some good power for the cheap. But the pistons and heads have to be changed. I've seen some articles where the motors had such little use as RVs they didn't even bore them just change main bearings and pistons.[/SIZE]
 
No one here has mentioned IQ52's work with low compression engines. Not to mention Hughes' crazy results using their Whiplash Cam (though I'd rather not start a love / hate sh$t storm on that cam).
 
For better or worse, I wont be getting a motorhome block. I bought the stationwagon.
 
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