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Losing weight on your b-body ??

At a certain point...it's no longer a car that can be raced in a bunch of classes. Be careful of what you cut and/or replace with aftermarket parts. I whittled mine down a bunch, with stock front suspension, and no obvious visual cutting of sheet-metal.

This is all steel[except hood] and all factory window glass. Hemi, dana, legal S/S cage, etc...... 3185# in the picture.

6sb8ts.jpg
 
At a certain point...it's no longer a car that can be raced in a bunch of classes. Be careful of what you cut and/or replace with aftermarket parts. I whittled mine down a bunch, with stock front suspension, and no obvious visual cutting of sheet-metal.

This is all steel[except hood] and all factory window glass. Hemi, dana, legal S/S cage, etc...... 3185# in the picture.

6sb8ts.jpg
Share with us how you got your car to 3185....I need that help for my 66 Coronet. I already have Fiberglass frt and rr bumpers/fiberglass hood and front fenders/no back seat/weld wheels/aluminum heads/no exhaust system/dana 60/cal trac monoleafs...but I need less weight...help please...
 
My 67 weighs 3300 w/ mild steel cage (with X brace and forward engine compartment bars), lexan 1/4 windows, fiberglass bumpers, fenders, hood and trunk. Front inner fenders and radiator support have been removed- other than that stock floors with welded into floor subframe connectors- all floor is stock other than steel wheel tubs. It has a fuel cell and 2 fiberglass seats. Bumper brackets have been cut up for lightening also.
OBTW- there is 75 lbs of weight bolted behind the rear license plate to get the car 50/50...
 
My 67 weighs 3300 w/ mild steel cage (with X brace and forward engine compartment bars), lexan 1/4 windows, fiberglass bumpers, fenders, hood and trunk. Front inner fenders and radiator support have been removed- other than that stock floors with welded into floor subframe connectors- all floor is stock other than steel wheel tubs. It has a fuel cell and 2 fiberglass seats. Bumper brackets have been cut up for lightening also.
OBTW- there is 75 lbs of weight bolted behind the rear license plate to get the car 50/50...

Which I want you to remove ASAP and let me reset your ladder bars. I removed my 45 lb. turbo start battery from my trunk and I didn't have to readjust anything.
Now that you have a fire suit, let it fly!!

actionange1.jpg
 
Lots of acid-dipped parts. Everything else on the car was massaged or changed, with weight in mind. Take care of the ounces, and the pounds take care of themselves.
 
I once skeletonized and swiss cheezed the head light cups/buckets on my RR after all was said and done the four weighed the same as one untouched one did... It was a lot of work that went unseen that was the good part. After all that my dreams of weight loss were shattered I soon gave up and resigned too live the life as a fat body street car.
 
Aluminum fasteners for non load bearing stuff. Titanium also. I used to by stuff from Titanium Joe, scrap & drops also for parts. Remove undercoating, anything in the dash that isn't being used. I had my 69 RR down to 3020 with a all steel motor and glass front & rear.
 
I also shortened every bolt to the min. with a die grinder.
 
pretty extensive process for grams. I realize it all matters but, does it really? What matters is how your chassis works and how your motor runs. I think when you get it down to cutting your bolts and scraping insulation. I wonder if would ever show on a time slip? maybe just a very accurate scale.
 
pretty extensive process for grams. I realize it all matters but, does it really? What matters is how your chassis works and how your motor runs. I think when you get it down to cutting your bolts and scraping insulation. I wonder if would ever show on a time slip? maybe just a very accurate scale.

I scraped off 35 lbs of undercoating from the bottom and inside the 1/4 panels. That's all part of it. It's part of the process of how you can get a car that's all steel with a full interior to weigh 3100 and still add extra's like a fire system, 2nd battery, mega-block, etc. The lighter it is, the easier it goes fast. Just depends on how quick you want to go. Pretty expensive to get a B-Body to go high 8/low 9 on motor if it's heavy.
Doug
 
I believe it is a common fact that taking out 100lbs decreases ET BY 1/10th second....at least down to the Mid-9s..maybe less ET reduction after that....but...for us MORTAL BEINGS that run in the 11s and 10s it is true...the SUPER HUMAN BEINGS that run low,low 9's and into the 8s have their own planet that they live on....AND THIS IS MEANT AS A COMPLIMENT TO THOSE GUYS.
 
Not super human by any means. The only way I personally could aford to go quick was to build everything myself. Many of the parts were used. Anything that could be removed without making the car look "cut-up" is gone. The first 200 lbs is pretty easy, the next 100 a little tougher. Any more than that will be one of three, expensive, inovative, or it no longer looks like stock.
Doug
 
To get the lowest ET. everything must be at it's best.
 
BTW this was when I was in my 20's when I had more time than money. So I spent a lot of time just sitting and staring, trying to get my existing combo faster.
 
I have not taken any weight out of mine. But it is a street car. In fact it still has the full heater box in it. And I dont care alot for the glass bumpers as you just cant get them to look as good as a chrome bumper. But its not the heaviest as it weighs just over 3700 with me in it. Ron
 
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