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Lug nuts keep loosening

100 ft lbs is very high compared to 65. No reason for it! Makes it hard to get them off with a factory lug wrench on the side of road.

The guys that made the car tell you how tight to make them, why not listen.

On the other hand most people don’t care, and when they do know and still crank them down to 100 without a problem. they may have forgotten the important stuff.

Anybody ever worked on cars at a shop or tire store? Plenty of these cars come in are 2X or 3X the torque value. Many cars leave crummy shops way overtight also. they don’t get many comebacks for lugs too tight, but they hear about it when the wheel comes off,
 
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100 ft lbs is very high compared to 65. No reason for it! Makes it hard to get them off with a factory lug wrench on the side of road.

The guys that made the car tell you how tight to make them, why not listen.

On the other hand few people don’t care, and when they do know and crank them down to 100 without a problem.

Anybody ever worked on cars at a shop or tire store? Plenty of these cars come in are 2X or 3X the torque value. Many cars leave crummy shops way overtight also. they don’t get many comebacks for lugs too tight, but they hear about it when the wheel comes off,
You obviously haven’t read all the posts in succession. There’s a reason
 
Not at all funny. No. I’ve forgotten more about tires and the tire industry than you’ll likely ever know.
Even though I don't know you, I'm sure you have.
Sounds like good practice to double the torque spec if you feel like it.

I've never seen a car come out of the tire shop with busted studs, or with the nuts so tight that they have to be chiseled off.
I'm sure its a myth.
 
Even though I don't know you, I'm sure you have.
Sounds like good practice to double the torque spec if you feel like it.

I've never seen a car come out of the tire shop with busted studs, or with the nuts so tight that they have to be chiseled off.
I'm sure its a myth.
See you can’t even do simple math. Double 65 is 130. Not the 90 I was suggesting.

theres a reason and you’re another one who hasn’t read everything. Do whatever you want as I don’t give a ****.
 
Recommended torque for a 1/2x20.... 90lb
Recommended torque for a 7/i6x20.........60lb


At least according to the bolt company chart.
 
See you can’t even do simple math. Double 65 is 130. Not the 90 I was suggesting.

theres a reason and you’re another one who hasn’t read everything. Do whatever you want as I don’t give a ****.
Just jerking your chain bud.

In all seriousness, any changes to the stock parts can give you problems.

The very first set of aftermaket rims I put on my Charger were Cragars, I don't remember the name but they had an aluminum center and steel rim. This was in the 80's, so I'm fuzzy on the details. IIRC, I bought them from Summit and had them installed with new Goodyear Eagles at Connely Tire in North Canton. Lug nuts came loose after a couple of trips, no serious damage, but it was then that I learned that alloy wheels need to be retightened.

Recently I ran Weld Rodlights for a couple of years. These have the very thick hubs (I'm not sure why they are so thick.) I made it a regular habit to check the torque. I had them on and off alot since I was racing the car. It always semmed to take awhile for them to stablize.

I then switched to old school slots, and they don't seem to be as much trouble as the Welds. I did have to got to 5/8 studs on the rear due to bending the 1/2 studs.
 
I then switched to old school slots, and they don't seem to be as much trouble as the Welds. I did have to got to 5/8 studs on the rear due to bending the 1/2 ststuds.
That's cause you're racing a stick shift car! LOL!
 
How about we get back to helping this guy and his weld wheels, instead of where this is headed?

WE ALL need more info from him about what he is working with. There’s an obvious problem with his car because the rear wheel is staying tight and the fronts are getting loose.
See you can’t even do simple math. Double 65 is 130. Not the 90 I was suggesting.

theres a reason and you’re another one who hasn’t read everything. Do whatever you want as I don’t give a ****.
Well you see I had my reply typed out but forgot to post before I went out to my garage TO MOUNT AND BALANCE A SET OF TIRES!


Not at all funny. No. I’ve forgotten more about tires and the tire industry than you’ll likely ever know.
when you post like that is just makes you look bad,
you aren’t the only person who has ever worked in the industry. So cool down a few clicks.
 
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How about we get back to helping this guy and his weld wheels, instead of where this is headed?

WE ALL need more info from him about what he is working with. There’s an obvious problem with his car because the rear wheel is staying tight and the fronts are getting loose.

Well you see I had my reply typed out but forgot to post before I went out to my garage TO MOUNT AND BALANCE A SET OF TIRES!



when you post like that is just makes you look bad,
you aren’t the only person who has ever worked in the industry. So cool down a few clicks.
Seems like another thread where we get all bunged up and the OP never returns to it.
 
I'm using Weld nuts and washers. 601-1416, like these

Stock drum brakes.
I don't think they're bottoming out.
Wheels not new, I don't know how old, they were on the car when I bought it.

Weld torque specs provided here, according to them 85lbs is on the low end.
 
I don't think they're bottoming out.
If they were bottoming on the hub, I doubt they'd loosen. If bottoming on a swedge, perhaps. IMO, maybe get a wheel of and check.

How much actual thread engagement do you have?

Are the lugs sloppy on the studs without the wheel?

Washer condition?
 
Problem is if they are bottoming out the wheel will not be tight. Poster has not responded so who knows whats going on.

This is the OP response, right?

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Nuts are not sloppy on the studs.
All nuts and washers are new.
I think I'l give Weld a call.
 
Appears there was a bottoming issue with previous lugs.

 
Might help if the poster showed some pictures of the rim and nuts. Back side with the nuts and washers in place.
 
Can he just measure the thickness of the lug hole on the rim, and put the lug nut all the way on the lug with the washer in place and measure that? Seem that would clear up the lug bottoming out issue. I personally would not run two washers at any time, that is a recipe for disaster, more moving parts does not usually cure the problem, identifying the problem will offer the solution. I also have never used an air gun to tighten a lugnut, maybe to spin them on, but I always do my final tightening with a lug wrench. And not the single arm lug wrench that these cars used to come with, i always use my my crossbar lug wrench. Of course I’m not a big fan of aftermarket rims, especially aluminum, I just don’t trust them. And I never just let a tire shop do my work for me, I’ve had a lot of young tire guys try to tell me things I already know about tires and rims. I believe I’ve bought over 200 sets of tires in my lifetime, probably more. Never had a rim come off in all my years.
 
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