Mad ammeter bypass question

[Ranger16]

The nuts on the back of the amp meter in my hemi road were tight. The post was loose inside the gauge . Instant bypass for me. I had a good-sized fire inside my Hurst-300, due to an amp-gauge.

I had an electrical problem last year and found the same thing. The wires where tight on the post, but the nut holding the post to the gauge was loose and the connection was intermittent. I even heard some arcing once or twice. Once I found it I just pulled the wires from the gauge and bolted them together and bypassed the gauge. I could have tightened down the posts, but heard too many horror stories and took the easy way out. I've got the volt meter like Khryslerkid has. Seems to suffice just fine. I would like to figure a way to center the ammeter gauge though instead of it always showing a discharge.

 

[steve from staten island]

Bare with me for a minute. On the back of the speedometer/gauges non rally there are two lugs for heavier wires one black one red.I believe it was called a circuit breaker. What is that for? On my old wiring the one red wire had melted. Thanks

 

[KENTON]

Why not eliminate factory gas gauge and temp gauge too?

If it's less information you want then go the whole way.

Don't worry, you'll still know when the car has overheated and when you run out of gasoline.
The gauges just cause trouble, so do away with them.

I don't yet comprehend how so many people would willingly give up knowing charge/discharge information, then show up in a tech forum later asking about low charging effectiveness.

The problem is not having an ammeter, the problem is way the stators are wound now on alternators, with too few turns in each pole section, resulting in low output at idle speed.

Get a stator wound as the factory original was with at least 12 turns per loop, and everything will work as designed.

Why couldn't crappy alternator rebuilding for the last 35 years plague GM or Ford vehicles...why are their stators wound to factory specs and Mopars get stuck with low output @ low rpm....the higher amps they advertise, the only thing they do is wind the stator out of heavier wire, but then they can't fit as many turns in each loop, and the idle output suffers greatly.
But I actually believe this was a conscious decision by rebuilders to handicap Mopar vehicles, made sometime around 1977.

And make sure not to ever put a duel master cylinder on either! that's not the way it came, so it must not be better. Listen up! new cars have VOLT METERS because they are safer, they are better, and they give more information about your charging system. P.S. they have duel master cylinders too.

 

[Glenwood]

it's too bad we couldn't just rig up a CT and scale down the current flow through the wiring and gauge to make it safer and still usable. I prefer voltmeters, but knowing current flow is useful too, at least to a sparky like me!

 

[khryslerkid]

Bare with me for a minute. On the back of the speedometer/gauges non rally there are two lugs for heavier wires one black one red.I believe it was called a circuit breaker. What is that for? On my old wiring the one red wire had melted. Thanks

See if this helps
http://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/electrical2.html

 

[Kern Dog]

People! Remember that these cars were certainly never expected to last 40 years! The engineering was solid at the time that they were built and a few years after. The stuff we are changing may not be needed in the case of a perfectly preserved 15,000 mile survivor car.
Old wiring that has either been in use since 1968, altered by numerous owners or simply exposed to the elements is going to have some problems.