Making progress

[skymynx]

I only paid $400 for a brand new re-covered rear seat and front seat for my 72. Craiglist find. Couldn't have been happier with them.

 

[99ss]

Only Mopar seats I can find in my area $250

 

[moparstuart]

actualy didnt come out that bad, I'm giddy about squirting the blue tomorrow..LOL
Cant wait, I think it will be decent enough. I hit the car with 400 grit paper one more time to make sure we got some smoothness to work with..
Waiting on the passenger side floor to arrive and I need seats....

would bucket seats from a 74 or so B-body look out of place?

the bucket seat it self will take a 70 seat cover and look fine , you will need to find 70 seat tracks though as the 71 up floor is totally different .

these are 73 seats with 70 challenge cover and 72 c body power seat tracks , I had to make customer holes and mountings but they work great

 

[99ss]

or these for 700.... will the rears fit my 70 67 gtx seats fit a 70 ?
need to know ASAP about to make the deal

 

[99ss]

Some more lessons learned of course... I will need to re-spray a few spots but over all not bad for the crap I had to deal with... the tip kept clogging... 1.3 is to small I think and the gun could work better I think.. time for some better guns maybe took me from 2pm to 6pm to lay down 3 coats... way to long and I ran out of light.. gun kept effing up on me.. but I made the best of it.. I can see all the mistakes of course and know I could have done better on the body work in some area's but this wasn't a restoration as much as a quick fix so keep that in mind. wont be able to tell how bad it is until the sunlight hits it tomorrow but the blue is a nice color and I think it looks good in spots....


full face mask got dirty after a while and hard to see out of as well, I need a hood and a suite or long sleeves are a must next time. Better half face respirator, I ate some paint for sure.... Over all I downgrade it to a C, not bad for a first time total amateur taking on a major project from hell but certainly I think I can do better with more time to work with and real sheet-metal and better conditions. I did this mis winter in my driveway in a tent in the PACNW.....LOL not ideal conditions .. hahaha but whats done is done

The blue radiator and headlights are classic... friggin bone-head in a hurry stooge more but I had to give the critics something to laugh about.... :tongueflap:

the lense on the camera is dirty... LOL . you can see spots everywhere but that the lense

 

[Ron 73]

Give yourself some credit, we can all see our mistakes, I found myself pointing my own out to people, It really does looks good, One thing id suggest in the future is a tip size of 1.4, Your beating yourself up pretty good and it doesn't look anything as bad as you must think... Ill bet there isint one person here who could say they didn't forget to tape something up starting out. You did fine! and it does look good. A thumbs up is what id say!!!

 

[bluenotefan]

High 5

Give yourself some credit...You did fine! and it does look good. A thumbs up is what id say!!!

I agree 100%. I've been silently following this thread for several days, and have to say "well done." To watch the progress, see what you started with, and what you've accomplished, is inspiring. Plus it's downright enjoyable to see just what can be accomplished in less than ideal circumstances, with some research, some elbow grease, and most importantly the right attitude. Congrats, keep up the good work, and please keep posting your progress!

 

[99ss]

Thx guys, do I need to resand the areas I want to recoat? couple thin spots .. I want to recaot the deck lid.. should I hit it with 400 or just respray... the paint just says to wait 16 hrs to recoat

 

[99ss]

Talked to the place where I bought the paint they said to use a scotch pad lightly on it

the only tips I have are 1.8 1.5 and 1.3, I'll use the 1.5 this time

bought a starting set of guns from devilbiss... called starting line I think.. I already know what I want in my next gun....LOL Moving right along here... not getting any younger...hahahaha

 

[99ss]

Nothing but orange peel, couldnt get paint out of the gun ... DAMN IT !!!

how do I fix this ? do I have to wet sand the whole thing now and respray??

I am so not happy right now, I feel like everything I have done was for not and just want to cry to be honest
:laughing3:

 

[99ss]

So everything I've read so far this am tells me that it was temperature that caused the peel... cant help that.. it Feb and I'm painting in a tent. Couldnt leave the heater on, it leaves a fine amount of soot I discovered....

So wet sanding and then using a compound looks like what I have to do now... thats not as bad as having to strip[ it and start over... it is what it is.... right?
I'm on the edge guys, waking up and seeing this crap on the car I've worked so hard on has me on the egde of a loosing it

 

[99ss]

reading reading reading.... looks like the polishing and wet sanding is more to the paint job than actualy painting the car..... more things learned...hahahaha

 

[Homstead]

If this is a single stage paint sanding and compounding won`t work. The paint will become blotchy because of the metallics. Now that you have the gun figured out and why you have orange peel I would sand it down and respray it. I`ve had to do this before and its easier the second time. I think you`ll be happier and like they say, practice makes perfect! Hopefully the paint is dry enough and won`t clog your paper. Don`t give up now! Your so close! Goodluck

 

[99ss]

I cant do anything about the temperature though and what I read says its the drying temps that give the peel.

The Restoration Shop AU Acrylic Urethane Single Stage is formulated to give outstanding gloss, depth, chemical resistance and durability in an easy to use system.

So I shouldnt be trying to wet sand it then?

the flat black I sprayed the day before layed flat as a pancake.. real nice... but it was warmer out

 

[MonzterMtrSprt]

Looks great man

 

[Homstead]

Temp was a big part of the problem but if your gun was clogging that played into it to. I`ve never used the paint that you used but making sure that its reduced properly is very important aswell. If your going to try polishing it then wet sanding it is the best way. Maybe try a small inconspicous spot somewhere and see if it clogs the sand paper. Try polishing and see what happens. If it were me I would wait for a warmer day and respray. You have to touch up the thin spots anyway. It`s just work! Lols

 

[99ss]

dry sand with 240?
it wont take as long to respray as the most of the color is already down and I was thiking I should do it in sections as well so I can control the temps better... it was like 45 and below when I was done spraying... I was worried about it and the gun did play a part I could see it happening as I was laying it down.... The good thing is I didnt have any runs anyhere....LOL.. couldnt get enough paint out of the gun and I couldnt move slow enough to puddle...hahahahaha

stripes came out nice though

 

[Homstead]

I prefer wet sanding over dry and with fresh paint it will most likely clog the paper very quickly. Some paints require a smoother finish than 240. Check with the paint supplier, they should have an answer for you. Painting the car in sections could work but I would still try to do it all at once. Warmer days are coming!

 

[99ss]

just did some experimental sanding on the trun that i know I am respraying..
the 320 wont touch it the 240 works decent enough.. has to be wet no way it will dry sand... bunch of poop is what it is... I knew when it was cooling off it ws going to happen but the paint was mixed and in the gun... well the second time around will be easier, I'll have this thing all sanded by days end if it kills me


the use the heat and time of day.. I painted the roof earlier in the day so it had the warmest part of the day to setup.....

 

[Homstead]

You might want to check what the paint company recommends for the final sand. You would hate to have sanding lines come through the paint after all that hard work.