Making progress

[99ss]

OK just got off the phone with them....

Two things but probably mostly more of one thing...


the HVLP gun I am using and my misunderstanding of pressure...
the 1.5 tip should have been used but in order to have 10 psi at re cap I should have had 30 at the inlet.... I was using 10 at the inlet... I never got enough paint out to give it a chance to lay flat in the first place and then the cold drying temp didnt help matters... SO...

going to sand it with 240 then 400... then respray with the correct tip and pressure. I need to let the paint cure as well before respraying so I've got a few days to work on other things as well taking my time sanding it... sucks.. had the primer on this thing nice and smooth.. I spent a lot of hours sanding it.... now I need to spend a lot more.....
needless to say I'm not happy about it... my fault as well, I knew something wasnt right and kept spraying because I had the paint mixed and in the gun and felt like I was past the point of no return and had to damn the torpedos and full speed ahead....

should have pulled the emergency abort cord and dumped the paint instead...
Thats a big lesson learned right there....

maybe odsvet is right, I'm a fckn idiot..:confused1:

 

[Homstead]

Nawww your not an idiot! It`s how we learn. You made some mistakes and now your correcting them. I think it`s great that your not giving up! Now get to work!! Lols

 

[oldbee]

'99'--So they use road salt in Oregon too????LOL. Yrs. ago I was in Calif. in the military with my '68 and the guy at the garage said "what's all this brown stuff underneath?"He never saw rust before!!!!

 

[99ss]

wow screw one paint job up and no one talks to you anymore....hahahahaha
paints cured, sanding has begun... placed an add for a laborer and found an out of work tech so pro help is one the way maybe..LOL
100 for 5 hrs of sanding is what I am paying.. sound ok?

 

[mccoymail]

$20/hr sounds ok to me. Good luck, would love to see more pics. Your thread is what has been giving me my mopar fix lately!

 

[AR67GTX]

OK just got off the phone with them....

Two things but probably mostly more of one thing...


the HVLP gun I am using and my misunderstanding of pressure...
the 1.5 tip should have been used but in order to have 10 psi at re cap I should have had 30 at the inlet.... I was using 10 at the inlet... I never got enough paint out to give it a chance to lay flat in the first place and then the cold drying temp didnt help matters... SO...

going to sand it with 240 then 400... then respray with the correct tip and pressure. I need to let the paint cure as well before respraying so I've got a few days to work on other things as well taking my time sanding it... sucks.. had the primer on this thing nice and smooth.. I spent a lot of hours sanding it.... now I need to spend a lot more.....
needless to say I'm not happy about it... my fault as well, I knew something wasnt right and kept spraying because I had the paint mixed and in the gun and felt like I was past the point of no return and had to damn the torpedos and full speed ahead....

should have pulled the emergency abort cord and dumped the paint instead...
Thats a big lesson learned right there....

maybe odsvet is right, I'm a fckn idiot..:confused1:

If your gun is rated at 30 psi inlet, you don't want any less than that. Better to error a little on the high side. At worse you may get a little more overspray and you can turn the air valve down a little to compensate. Assuming your using urethane paint - urethane stops curing somewhere just below 60 deg F. Not only do you not want to spray below 60 deg - you need to maintain 60 deg for at least a day or more to be sure the paint chemically cures out. I recently painted a Cobra replica and spraying and curing around 65 deg - I had to wait a minimum of two days to start color sanding. The parts couldn't even be handled the following day w/o leaving fingerprints or tape marks in the surface. In warmer weather I could have started the day after.

Painting a car is about 98% sanding and about 2% painting.

 

[Ron 73]

I honestly thought this thread was deleted, moved or something, i was looking in the resto/projects threads.. Sounds like a lot has happened, i just quickly went thru your pages here and i either missed it or its not there so ill just ask, How large is your air compressor.. I looked up some basics on a HVLP gun that i hope will help you to... You may want to go over this before painting again, might be a help to you. Im asking about the compressor because if its a small one that will be running a lot your going to get water in the lines (heat build up from running a lot) which causes problems, you can use in line air filters to trap a lot of moisture and oils... Take a look at this link, maybe it will help some. And please stop calling yourself a idiot, lol, we all learn new things, don't mean were going to be right on the first time out! I still learn every time i do ANY-thing, maybe someday ill get it right. You have a lot of backbone, most folks wouldn't even tell anyone whats going on and how we screwed up. Hope this link gives you some insite that will help you more this time out!
http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/hvlp_paintgun_basics.htm

 

[99ss]

I have a big compressor and a good water filter trap setup as well so I'm ok there...
it was cold and I was at 10 psi at the inlet so I really didnt give it a chance but here is another question......

I was talking to someone today and they said no matter what I will have some orange peel due to the single stage urethane? even if I keep it above 60 * and lay the paint down nice the paint I'm using wont lay flat to begin with and I'll get some dgree of orange peel... Should I get a two stage system? I went with the single stage to avoid having to color sand and the ease of it.. again looking for the cheap way out as the car will be restored again in a year or so

printed that off Ron, thank you for the link..it certainly explains the gun better and how I shoud be using it.. it was guessing before..LOL

 

[detmatt1]

I am very impressed with your work and your atitude. To take on a task such as this, your first time and in those conditions is very admireable. This country was built by "nose to the grindstone" people like you and many others on this site. People that DO!
Keep it up Man! I know it will turn out great.

 

[Propwash]

Orange peel with all single stages? No....It's all in prep, enviroment, quality of the materials, equipment, air, gun settings and the person spraying it.

You have a lot of variables working against you. 1st off, not really much experience spraying and you're spraying a single stage with heavy metallic's (which cannot be heavily color sanded unless you want blotches-metallics settle). If you would have gone with a solid color and enough coats were applied, odds are you could have sanded/polished out some of the orange peel. Second, a enviroment that isn't controlled very well. As other folks mentioned, enviroment plays a huge part in the process. One of biggest issue's was 10 at the inlet and not the tip....

My Coronet (in my "view Photo's) is single stage..People always ask how many layers of clear is on it......zero! Good old Dupont Centauri Single stage. My point, you do not need two stage paint to avoid orange peel and have a car that sparkle's and shine's.

Myself I find it a lot easier to deal with single stage and would be confident to say it's a bunch easier to begin with. You're in the learning stage and obviously learning some key lesson's. Kudo's on continuing with your drive and efforts. A lot of folks would probably hang their head and walk away. The important thing is you're willing to learn from your mistakes, continue to ask questions and are moving forward to getting it resolved. Continue on that path and I'm sure you'll get to the point where it all turns out for you in the end.

 

[Ron 73]

I cant honestly answer your question, ive painted several cars, ive always used Acrylic Enamel and the shine i get from it always looked great to me and i know nothing of the other ways... Not much of a help, i would ask who ever told you that. This Acrylic enamel is old school i know, but it works for me and it would work here i think, your biggest problem is heat i think, I know you have a way to heat it up, but the car metal itself cant be heated as quick because the air temperature says 80 in the tent, ya follow me, the metal is still cool as your painting. Read that link and practice on anything, cardboard anything to get your lapping right, once you start across, don't stop, get a rhythm into it.. mix all right, get settings right and practice some.

 

[99ss]

It took the wind out of my sails a bit but I'm going back at it again now...LOL I need to be driving the car right now so the dleay isnt helping me.. no way I would drive it as is ...hahahaha

bought a heater and am buying a 25 gallon tank instead of the rental and hopefully warmer weather is on the way... We'll see.... I layed the flat black on decently enough the day before.. but it was warmer and I started and got done earlier so the car was seting up during the warmest part of the day. I'll get it right this time ...LOL maybe

found someone who is an out of work tech and will work for 8 hrs for 160 and see what he can do.... I might just do it all myself and save the money but having someone do better prep work than me isnt a horrible idea... but this was just a quick stuff and spray to last a year... YA RIGHT !!

$160 isnt a lot of money and almost worth it but then its kind of cheating.. me not doing it all myself.. but if he can work a little magic and save me the trouble then the money isnt bad spent I dont think... cant buy a new gun for that much that would be much different than what I have... next gun up is $329 or so ....... bit of a quandry.. part of me just wants to look out and see it done and ready for paint, other part of me tells me to suck it up and get out there and sand..hahahaha

 

[AR67GTX]

You can't spray perfectly flat paint with either single stage or BC/CC. But single stage is no worse than BC/CC for orange peel. I'm an amauter but this car came out pretty slick with single stage.

If you are spraying a metallic color, it's a mistake to use single stage. For metallic colors clear coat is a necessity.

 

[AR67GTX]

I would suggest you join this forum.

http://autobodystore.com/forum/index.php

The folks on here can provide a lot of help and advice on body work and painting.

 

[99ss]

Ok got half the car buzzed down. Bought a new gun as well. Almost considering a better paint but its all coming back off so I dont think I should waste the money right now. But I like kandy and flake..LOL

 

[99ss]

Quick uodate

most of the sanding is done, re-primed in a few spots did more body work...
bought a new gun and some new paint to use... Deltron .. custom mix steel blue metallic... have some sealer on the way as well.... have the passenger floor now as well to put it so really all the sheet metal will be done except for the quarters and we'll buy them one at a time when we can..


paint was a good deal from ebay but I called the guy and talked to him for a while as well... its legit DBU.. the DBC would cost about 320. but at least I know the paint will be good now and it was real cheap...LOL just one of those things you find .. he only had 2 gallons of it left.. Hope to paint it next week sometime .... :star_wars2:

 

[Homstead]

Hey looking good! Good luck with the new paint job!

 

[99ss]

Just waiting for the new paint to arrive... round 2 coming up

 

[moparstuart]

awesome

 

[Propwash]

Best of luck on your second round 99ss..Hope she turns out great for you.