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Manifolds or headers?

HP manifolds will be fine
I have several sets if you need some

in replay to a long ago post
Beg to differ
we had thermocouples for every cylinders exhaust
you have to do all three
tight quench, little overlap, short cam with lots of lift and timing in the right places
we helped John Erb, chief engineer at United Engine develop the KB pistons for the open chamber BBM heads
Otherwise you can't make a BBM run as well as possible without custom pistons- well 6 pack pistons and a wedge head works with a shim gasket if you can handle that much compression and want to pay for race gas
We converted some 76-78 440 Cordobas for the factory as well as some HD trucks, Motorhomes and buses, both gas and propane and Natural Gas
Chrysler was going to make some changes but BB got dropped before that happened
You know the Cordoba, where they had to go to the small converter as they would not get out of their own way with the big efficient one- and HOT

The late Bill Jenks at Moon/ Potvin did the cams
I still have two 55 gal drums of TQ's...
Would be a lot easier today with FI and let Mike Jones do the cam development- he's the best around.
 
Got lost a long time ago. I'm here to learn. The 440 has over 550 ft lbs torque and a chassis-dyno line as flat as a pancake. In the basement. Gobs. Stump pulling. Cooler. Lighter. Headers. I thought that was the end goal.
 
Am I too late to comment here? For what you want manifolds will work. These engines make so much torque anyways you'll have it when you want it. Yes headers make more power up in the range and add some torque 'down low' but the thing to remember is the 'down low' on the majority of the dyno tests is around 3000 rpm or more in most cases so it's a bit misleading, if you're wanting to compare street-type off-idle numbers..My car has a more modified setup but my uncle's 68 GTX 440 was rebuilt to match the factory performance, and while it may be no match for the souped-up brawler types it happily pins you to the seat and is great fun to drive around town, while rarely sniffing 5 grand on the tach. Quick enough, quiet, and drives everywhere.. As far as cam for your desired performance level I would go only a little above the stock spec cam, something under [email protected] with the most lift you can safely get..Good luck with your Charger!
 
Forgot to mention I went with a RV type cam that is exactly as you described.
 
post up your cam specs
I use 256 @.006 204 &.050 but with .305 lobe lift
essentially shorter than stock seat, about the same at .050 and more than Magnum lift- so it actually works like a Magnum where it counts but Magnum is about 268 @.006 213 @.050 but slow ramps- I just get there a more modern way
motorhome I run same lobe intake and exhaust, light car depending on exhaust add some duration, same lift and screw with the spread
I've run up to 1.75 rockers with this lobe
It's actually a pretty good hot cam in a SBM
cheers
 
Motor has been built and is sitting up at the shop doing the work, waiting for paint work to be completed. It just went through sitting for a couple weeks to let everything cure properly and is now going through final prime and blocking to prepare for paint. Once they have paintwork complete, they have everything they need to build up the engine compartment and put the motor, trans, and rear diff in to get it back on it's wheels.

We ended up going with a Edelbrock Performer intake, an Erson cam with mild duration and a little extra lift, sealed power forged pistons that a compression height that gave us a calculated compression of 9.7/1, and a set of stock HP exhaust manifolds. Plan to order a 2 1/2" TTI exhaust kit with the H-pipe for exhaust.
 
Too Bad I have an ERSON TQ 20 I'd give you
which Erson?
keep us posted
 
FrnkNsteen said:
Motor has been built and is sitting up at the shop doing the work, waiting for paint work to be completed. It just went through sitting for a couple weeks to let everything cure properly and is now going through final prime and blocking to prepare for paint. Once they have paintwork complete, they have everything they need to build up the engine compartment and put the motor, trans, and rear diff in to get it back on it's wheels.

We ended up going with a Edelbrock Performer intake, an Erson cam with mild duration and a little extra lift, sealed power forged pistons that a compression height that gave us a calculated compression of 9.7/1, and a set of stock HP exhaust manifolds. Plan to order a 2 1/2" TTI exhaust kit with the H-pipe for exhaust.
Click to expand...

Sounds great. Thanks for the update.

Piston selection is very important. Sealed Power makes a few low compression pistons. One of their lower compression pistons is rated at 9.7:1, but that compression ratio is almost unachievable with 906 heads. Double check with your engine guy to make sure you have this Sealed Power piston:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/slp-l2355f40/overview/make/dodge

The 2355 will get you to about 9.4:1. Every other flat top Seal Power piston will be much lower in compression, and none higher.
 
Can the person whom disagreed with my post explain why? Versus doing a drive by selection.......

We just never get the other person's viewpoint and that may be good information versus hitting a button and running away.....
 
I've had headers and manifolds . On this car it's manifolds to keep the stock look and they work fine .
I vote manifolds also easier to work around and quieter .
 
Yes, Napierville...
My 451 c.i. (400 block 400 rods 440 crank) BobK's six pack cam with manifolds.
We know headers make more power.
My goal with the Charger was to reach 12 seconds zone, with manifolds, stock tires and 3.23 suregrip.
I agree with wyrmrider : tight quench, little overlap, short cam with lots of lift and timing in the right places.
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopa...ake-and-still-using-stock-air-cleaner.113170/
 
Dennis H said:
Headers.
Click to expand...

across the board :thumbsup: better

Smiley big green check mark.jpg


of course unless it's pretty much bone stock or the owner wants
a stock appearing look, under the hood & sacrifice performance
or operation in a range with 1500-2000 rpm & 2.76:1 gears
never gets into the power-band or torque-band ranges

the engine is just a huge air pump what goes in must come out

many people that complain about headers
buy cheap shitty headers
don't know how to seal them properly
don't know how to route the wires so they don't get burned
or buy cheap *** wires with the wrong style/angle boots
get the wrongs size tube/length headers & style
for their intended purpose
they only know what they read & agree with on the -www-
(by like minded people)
some are really cheap budget minded, when $700-$1000
on one of these type cars is a drop in the bucket,
that's if you want a quality part & performance
or just don't know any better

then complain about all the above :poke:
Disclaimer;
not pointed at anyone specific, just a vague overall statement

I will never build by committee
or just because of comment on the -www- or FBBO

sorry but that's my opinion
from someone that's "actually" had serious power,
some day 2 & slightly modified & some 100% bone stock too
that knows the differences & why they work better
understands air flow, no exhaust reversion (like stock manifolds do),
under-hood heat reduction & a scavenging (drawing vacuum/gasses out) effect
& yes I have use both styles several/multiple times

headers are better PERIOD

unfortunately;
I have ported & ceramic coated 68 HP manifolds
on my car right now, regretfully
they are chocking the engine big-time,
you can fell it in the seat of the pants big time,
& in the tune too,
I had to lean it out big-time too, to compensate
for the engines lack of flow (exhaust/breathing abilities)
also have to run more advance to make up for it too
just band-aides

until I can finish or even start on my own
home built tuned, step headers 1-7/8" to 2",
with scavenger collectors 4-2-1 (they won't be light)
above, the "out of the box" bought style headers ground clearance
(we have some nasty roads up here)
in to 3" mandrel exhaust with an H-pipe, also in the proper location
to help scavange/equalize the 2 pipes & 3" tailpipes out the rear
they will be mid length 28"-30", not long or shorty headers
(I have a mild cam for a hyd. roller, lots of lift, with less duration,
112 overlap, for street driving up here in the mountains)

Out of the box headers wont work because
I have Uni-Steer Omni style, rear steer
rack & pinion power steering box, ****'s in the way
need rear exit, style headers nobody makes for a BB MoPar
(sort of like the MW 62-64 style S/S or Ramcharger style cast iron manifold do)

or I'd just use TTI's 178383c
or Doug's
or Schumacher BB Tri-y's or their BB Dakota Style headers
(not sure they are even still in business)

I also use 3" DeltaFlow 50 series Flowmasters too,
some people seem to hate also :hifu:I like them personally
have no issues with the dreaded drone

I don't/won't build/build by committee,
I know what works for me personally & I choose to use it
they work & work great for me

to each their own
it's all opinions, those are mine
take it or leave it :lol:

carry on nothing to see here
:luvplace:
 
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