Metal gas line going to carb?

[Timmayy]

I try to use as much steel as possible only using rubber for a short connector usually an inch or 2.

 

[Brandy]

I try to use as much steel as possible only using rubber for a short connector usually an inch or 2.

Agree, I might skimp on some things when building a car but not on something that can blow up and kill me.

 

[JoePole]

Any issues with using the softer CuNi hard line? My hard line makes lots of twists and turns. Bends real easy.

 

[Gus chiggins]

Agree, I might skimp on some things when building a car but not on something that can blow up and kill me.

It's like being on an EOD team, you only get one mistake.

 

[Rat Rod Al]

This look like what you need ?

 

[69a100]

Can you just use a rubber gas line to the carb?

Thanks!

If you want to be lazy and do it the dangerous way by cuttin corners, sure, go right ahead! I don't know why people are so careless to care about doing something the safe way and always have to do stupid **** like this?? It's your car, do what you want, just don't come cryin about how your car burned down because of stupidity!! Good Luck

 

[AR67GTX]

I’ve always been a little surprised how many older engines had factory, short pieces of rubber fuel lines in the engine compartments.

But, I guess back then with straight gas, quality fuel line degradation wasn’t a common issue.

 

[toolmanmike]

The short pieces of rubber hose allowed easy fuel filter replacement and the whole thing was cheaper to manufacture.. In theory, the filter could have a inverted flare fitting on one end. (can't have it on both ends unless one was left hand thread) Some models do. You don't need the rubber hose for flexibility. (engine torque) That's why there's rubber on the fuel line to the fuel pump.

 

[5.7 hemi]

The rubber hoses are there for vibration and engine movement.

 

[mopar jack]

I learned to keep the rubber fuel lines less than 12" to pass tech at the track. The factory used a short section at the sending unit, a short piece from the frame rail to the fuel pump and very short pieces for the filter. The line at the sending unit and frame rail are under very low pressure and only the short pieces at the filter seeing pump pressure.

 

[Brandy]

The only rubber pieces on my set up- will be from pump to line, about 10" or so, and from line to metal line from fuel cell. Both down near the frame rails.

 

[69ChargerR/TSE]

I had Fine Lines/SSTUBES make me Stainless steel lines to replace the EFI rubber, so the only rubber will be at the filter, and the fuel tank using EFI pressure hose, with EFI band clamps, not the worm style clamps. In my opinion, and from what I know since working on cars since the 80's(late 1900's )Worm style should be avoided in my opinion, because the can damage the rubber when over tightened and over time, could be a way for the hose to leak.

 

[Durandal25]

Not to get nosy, but why? I would assume the engine moving and rubber degradation might cause problems long term. I know repops are available for a lot of cars, or make your own. If you do't have a pattern, use #9 copper wire or coat hanger to make one and brake line from the parts store.

Awesome idea.

 

[kbfallon]

Is the stock metal gas line to goes from the fuel pump to the carb important? Can you just use a rubber gas line to the carb?

Thanks!

I believe NHRA allows only a foot of rubber line Total....too many cars have burned up from these hoses that deteriorate and the worm clamps loosening up, or no flange on the end of metal line to keep it from sliding off when loose....etc.....I could go on, but you can make one fairly easily out of tubing or buy the factory ones. The factory pieces are pretty safe.

 

[Big Bad Dad]

It isn't TOO big of a chance having a problem. I have been driving since I got my permit in 1974. In all that time, I have only had ONE car burn and be totaled by the fuel line popping and spraying on the hot engine. Just one car destroyed in all that time! So why worry?? (Car was a Mercury, so no Mopar was harmed......)

 

[MoparLeo]

Only takes 1 fire to take care of you, not the good way either. Rigid metal lines are routed and bent to avoid contact with any area's of potential heat and friction from the line rubbing against something. Safety first. Absolutely no advantage of running rubber lines as opposed to properly bent and routed metal lines.
Just false economy.

 

[Gus chiggins]

It isn't TOO big of a chance having a problem. I have been driving since I got my permit in 1974. In all that time, I have only had ONE car burn and be totaled by the fuel line popping and spraying on the hot engine. Just one car destroyed in all that time! So why worry?? (Car was a Mercury, so no Mopar was harmed......)

One car fire is one too many. At least you were not turned into a crispy critter.

 

[33 IMP]

Agree with Ghostriders post #17, 100%
I'm in the process of replacing a full length stainless braided fuel line (it's RUBBER inside, and leaks like a sprinkler) with metal fuel line for the length of the car, plus A/N fittings and TEFLON hose anyplace that needs to be flexible.
Not cheap, but Teflon will outlast rubber-inside stainless by about five times. I am replacing any piece of stainless hose that leaks with Teflon now. Learned my lesson.

 

[33 IMP]

How do you cut that stuff? I've tried before and it gets all frayed and a complete mess. No to mention stabbing yourself with 1500 barbs.

I wrap it as tight as possible with tape, masking or duct, then cut thru the middle of the tape with a cut-off wheel in a die grinder. Sometimes even leave the tape on to insert the line into the fitting.

 

[5.7 hemi]

Also, nylon tape works really well. Don’t forget to blow some compressed air through the hose after cutting to get any debris out.