Meter Match.

[BeepBeepRR]

I will be installing a meter match on the Road Runner. Just wondering if anyone here has done it and where they mounted the box? I thought about taking the 2 wires at the kick panel connector apart and installing it into the kick panel area. That is a good place where I can take the wires to and from the gauge from. But if anyone else has a good location let me know. Sick of not knowing how much fuel is in the car. So hopefully this thing does what its supposed to do.

 

[64fury74charger]

I recently put the meter match in my Charger and tucked the box behind the ashtray area so it’s accessible and out of sight.

 

[Runner 68]

Fairly good product. We put one on my son's 72 Duster and mounted it behind the driver side kick panel. Should be plenty of room there on a Bird as well.

 

[BeepBeepRR]

Fairly good product. We put one on my son's 72 Duster and mounted it behind the driver side kick panel. Should be plenty of room there on a Bird as well.

That's what I was thinking.. Ashtray is a good option too. Could even go into the console too. Want it hidden but accessible too.

 

[Mackman]

I would be curious as to how you made out with it. I installed one on a 69 GTX. The meter match didn’t have enough adjustment. E is empty, but full is 3/4. Long conversations with their engineer, but no solution. The sender does it’s job.

 

[BeepBeepRR]

The gauge used to work but never would read correctly. I would put a full tank in it and it may read 1/4. I'm probably going to pull the sender at the same time to make sure the float isn't full of gas.

 

[64fury74charger]

I would be curious as to how you made out with it. I installed one on a 69 GTX. The meter match didn’t have enough adjustment. E is empty, but full is 3/4. Long conversations with their engineer, but no solution. The sender does it’s job.

When I was calibrating the meter match I had the same problem with the range and there are several options to calibrate using 12 volt source to aftermarket gauge which seems to work. My factory gauge seems to be having difficulty even though I was getting the 5 volt reference at the sending unit wire back at the tank. I used an Autometer gauge and it seems to work.

There are several different settings depending on how you want to set it up. I tried that as well but it didn’t work. The directions are ok but could be more detailed.

 

[BeepBeepRR]

I watched the TanksInc video and it seems pretty straight forward. In the video he mentions how to adjust for voltage flux. Which would read weird at higher voltage when the car is charging. So the ohms may change at like 12.5 volts to 13.5 volts may have a little more resistance. So you have to setup the voltage stability to stop it from increasing the ohms at higher voltages. And stabilizes the voltage to 12.5 all the time going to the meter match. Pretty cut and dry video. I will link it.

 

[64fury74charger]

I watched the TanksInc video and it seems pretty straight forward. In the video he mentions how to adjust for voltage flux. Which would read weird at higher voltage when the car is charging. So the ohms may change at like 12.5 volts to 13.5 volts may have a little more resistance. So you have to setup the voltage stability to stop it from increasing the ohms at higher voltages. And stabilizes the voltage to 12.5 all the time going to the meter match. Pretty cut and dry video. I will link it.

I watched the video numerous times and it seems relatively simple. There is also another setting to stabilize the 5 volt reference but for me that really messed up the range of needle adjustments, plus my factory gauge seems to be dead even though the 5 volt pulse feeds through it. The meter match does work and does everything it is supposed to . I am going to start installing my Autometer dash today and that is going to clean up a lot of crap and get rid of the 5 volt reference and the amp meter as well.

 

[BeepBeepRR]

I'm just really hoping for some kind of improvement. I mean right now the car has about a half tank and its showing empty. Grounded the sender to the metal line as well as went to the frame. So grounding is not the issue. Checked the gauge with 2 aa batteries in series and the gauge goes up and down. So it simply has to be the aftermarket sender like many have posted about. Someone posted and I may have it backwards that the new senders are linear and the original senders are non linear. And that seems to be the entire issue with the new senders. I would probably just add an after market gauge but It just seems to make the original dash look tacky having an extra gauge hanging under it. That's just my opinion but Id just like to get everything working correctly.

 

[64fury74charger]

I'm just really hoping for some kind of improvement. I mean right now the car has about a half tank and its showing empty. Grounded the sender to the metal line as well as went to the frame. So grounding is not the issue. Checked the gauge with 2 aa batteries in series and the gauge goes up and down. So it simply has to be the aftermarket sender like many have posted about. Someone posted and I may have it backwards that the new senders are linear and the original senders are non linear. And that seems to be the entire issue with the new senders. I would probably just add an after market gauge but It just seems to make the original dash look tacky having an extra gauge hanging under it. That's just my opinion but Id just like to get everything working correctly.

You are right about the new senders being linear and the meter match has limited options to get around this and convert the signal accurately. I totally understand about not wanting to hang an aftermarket fuel gauge on the dash. I planned on converting the dash a while back and was delayed by the pandemic supply issues. I was just hap having a working gauge….lol.

 

[BeepBeepRR]

I took the Road Runner up to the store and ran out of gas at the pump. lol Anyhow I filled it up and now I get a reading of 27.4 ohms on the sender. Which is nowhere near what MaMopar has for the OE senders. Without dropping the tank and pulling the sender out I am going to assume that the float is working. I actually forgot to take an ohm reading when it was nearly empty. So I have to figure out how to set it up with the meter match.

 

[64fury74charger]

I took the Road Runner up to the store and ran out of gas at the pump. lol Anyhow I filled it up and now I get a reading of 27.4 ohms on the sender. Which is nowhere near what MaMopar has for the OE senders. Without dropping the tank and pulling the sender out I am going to assume that the float is working. I actually forgot to take an ohm reading when it was nearly empty. So I have to figure out how to set it up with the meter match.

Sounds like the float might be sticking or something, full should be around 10 ohms and empty around 73 ohms. I used my spare sending unit to calibrate the meter match and it seems close and relatively consistent. Do you have another sending unit you can play with?

 

[BeepBeepRR]

Sounds like the float might be sticking or something, full should be around 10 ohms and empty around 73 ohms. I used my spare sending unit to calibrate the meter match and it seems close and relatively consistent. Do you have another sending unit you can play with?

No I don't.. sadly I will have to drop the tank I'm sure. I can't remember what float was on the sender. Plastic, brass or that carbon based deal. Hopefully the float is not taking on fuel.

 

[64fury74charger]

No I don't.. sadly I will have to drop the tank I'm sure. I can't remember what float was on the sender. Plastic, brass or that carbon based deal. Hopefully the float is not taking on fuel.

May be a heavy float, but usually they will sink after a bit, you are getting a reading and maybe it is just sticking on the hinge.

 

[BeepBeepRR]

May be a heavy float, but usually they will sink after a bit, you are getting a reading and maybe it is just sticking on the hinge.

I hope so. Maybe I can loosen the sealing nut and wiggle the thing around without dropping the tank. Damn things never go wrong when they are empty lol.

 

[64fury74charger]

I also added a ground wire from the tank to a good clean ground and that sure made a difference. The tank needs a solid ground.

 

[64fury74charger]

Here’s a picture of the external ground because I got really tired of pumping the gas out of the tank. This ground on the corner of the tank runs directly to battery negative. Everything that should be grounded is. Clean ground is your friend.

 

[El.Padrino]

I bought the MeterMatch in hope to finally solve my fuel gauge reading.

Repop sending unit and original (standard) fuel gauge. Gauge always showed half when tank was full but never full.

I am now at my third attempt syphoning the fuel tank to calibrate my Metermatch. I can't make it to read anything usable.

First I filled up and set the high point to read Full. I then drained the tank to about 2 gal. and set the gauge to Empty.

Applied 12V several times while the Full mark set first always showed right. After the Empty mark was set, I wasn't able to reproduce the E reading.

The needle went up to about half full and was then dropping a bit and raising again. Never showed the set Empty.

Did this with an external power supply tested on 12.5V, 13.8V, 11V as well with the car's battery.

Voltage correction was set on.

I don't know if I just throw it out and live with.

 

[BeepBeepRR]

The fuel gauge works off 5 volts. Over volting would give you a high reading if I'm not mistaken. The original fuel gauge is powered by the voltage limiter on the back of the cluster.

The traditional Mopar ohms resistance is EMPTY 73--75, HALF SCALE -- 23-25, and FULL 10-13 or so