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Molasses as a rust remover is awesome

The chrome on the latches were in poor condition and the fishing patch certainly is a wild card, that’s the scientific description meaning “I don’t have a clue how the molasses will react to the glue and material of the sticker.”.

Here’s a look a few weeks later;)

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As the pictures show the sticker is still present and firmly attached.

The whole toolbox went back in the drink for another few weeks, a calculated and precise timeline.
 
A scrubbing pad was utilized to knock off the loose particles between soakings and what is the end result. Is the fishing sticker still attached?? What about the paint/galvanized coating, was that affected?

Stay tuned!
 
Conclusion: The fishing sticker is still strongly & strangely holding up, soaking it longer may have discolored it or brought minor rust back, the paint/galvanizing was loosed/bubbled some but that helped with scrubbing it off, it took most of the rust off the chrome latches.

All in all I’m impressed.
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End!
 
so a little bit of a learning curve I had forgot to mention.....

when doing large parts like the hood skin above........ I built a custom box, it could have been a little more accurate; but it was made out of scraps and was lucky to piece it together....... I filled extra space and voids with wood and figured it might hold 10 gallons. I was way off......

tip: calculate cubic inches and convert it to gallons...... I calculated 27 gallons, and guess how much it held? yup, 27 gallons........3 of which are molasses, 75 bucks.......... I will drain my box and use the solution for other things

roll of 6 mill plastic was 40 bucks, yikes........ I lined the box with it and pulled a tight layer over the top to seal out bugs and stuff

if I had to buy sheet of OSB and some 1X3s ect, probably would have been another 30-40 bucks

if it cleans this skin as advertised, it was worth it I suppose....... since I can reuse my 75 dollars worth of molasses

next time I'll have a clue........ and a plan
 
so what is the difference between these?.......is the cheaper stuff just as effective? is it diluted?

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so a little bit of a learning curve I had forgot to mention.....

when doing large parts like the hood skin above........ I built a custom box, it could have been a little more accurate; but it was made out of scraps and was lucky to piece it together....... I filled extra space and voids with wood and figured it might hold 10 gallons. I was way off......

tip: calculate cubic inches and convert it to gallons...... I calculated 27 gallons, and guess how much it held? yup, 27 gallons........3 of which are molasses, 75 bucks.......... I will drain my box and use the solution for other things

roll of 6 mill plastic was 40 bucks, yikes........ I lined the box with it and pulled a tight layer over the top to seal out bugs and stuff

if I had to buy sheet of OSB and some 1X3s ect, probably would have been another 30-40 bucks

if it cleans this skin as advertised, it was worth it I suppose....... since I can reuse my 75 dollars worth of molasses

next time I'll have a clue........ and a plan
Your prices for molasses are a lot higher than I pay. I can get a 5 gallon pail for about $30 Canadian. (I haven't actually checked this year, I'll let you know if it has gone up since my last pail).
 
heres another one....... this is the stuff I used, but thought I'd only need a gallon lmao, hardly any savings buying the 5 gal, like 8 bucks

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so a little bit of a learning curve I had forgot to mention.....

when doing large parts like the hood skin above........ I built a custom box, it could have been a little more accurate; but it was made out of scraps and was lucky to piece it together....... I filled extra space and voids with wood and figured it might hold 10 gallons. I was way off......

tip: calculate cubic inches and convert it to gallons...... I calculated 27 gallons, and guess how much it held? yup, 27 gallons........3 of which are molasses, 75 bucks.......... I will drain my box and use the solution for other things

roll of 6 mill plastic was 40 bucks, yikes........ I lined the box with it and pulled a tight layer over the top to seal out bugs and stuff

if I had to buy sheet of OSB and some 1X3s ect, probably would have been another 30-40 bucks

if it cleans this skin as advertised, it was worth it I suppose....... since I can reuse my 75 dollars worth of molasses

next time I'll have a clue........ and a plan

Oh man, it's too bad you couldn't find a bulk animal feed store for the molasses. Maybe i'm just lucky to have it available in my area. Paid $3.75 a gallon in my own container. I bought some of that plastic over the winter too. Crap is way more expensive than i remember it. Hope it works for you. On heavily rusted parts i find it works better to hit the thick rust with a wire brush after 5 or 6 days and put it back in.
 
On heavily rusted parts i find it works better to hit the thick rust with a wire brush after 5 or 6 days and put it back in.

i hit it with a grinding disc before dunking it....... we shall see......I plan on an ospho treatment before primer anyway
 
Don't look now, but @eldubb440 is becoming our FBBO expert on Molasses!
Perhaps a tutorial on the topic can be prepared for a Carlisle audience?
 
Went to my local TS yesterday only to find they don't stock it around here. Not really surprised. The closer you get to San Francisco, the harder it is to find anything useful. I went on their website and could only find Black Ops Molasses liquid that they sell as an deer bait. I couldn't find a list of ingredients for that, but they talk about it being proprietary, which makes me think it isn't straight molasses. Might hit up the local feed store today. Can you post what you find when you get to TS?
I thought that also,but checked with a local expert and the only difference is that the deer molasses is feed grade which means it has the impurities removed. I will let you know how it works I just submerged my exhaust manifolds today.
 
don't let the orange tinge fool ya, this thing was nasty, now it's clean.......the molasses is impressive to say the least...... I'll treat it with some ospho and epoxy prime this baby; it'll never rust again

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wow.......wetting it with ospho instantly finishes the job......we really may be onto something here :thankyou:

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wow.......wetting it with ospho instantly finishes the job......we really may be onto something here :thankyou:

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I must have missed your last post and am wondering about the use of Ospho prior to you painting the hood.

I heard the Ospho needs to be washed off before painting and someone I know was told to use original Windex as a final prep before painting his car. After those steps his vehicle’s paint still looks outstanding.

How did your hood turn out?

I’m thinking about using Ospho on a gas tank. The tank’s inside is super clean, just the outside is rusty and it will be power washed and scrubbed with 3M pads. Maybe add a molasses soak too.

What could go wrong, Haywire 440
 
Your prices for molasses are a lot higher than I pay. I can get a 5 gallon pail for about $30 Canadian. (I haven't actually checked this year, I'll let you know if it has gone up since my last pail).
Forgot to put in that I got the pail for $29.99 again in Auguast. I had this picture in my own molasses thread but here it is.
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I must have missed your last post and am wondering about the use of Ospho prior to you painting the hood.

I heard the Ospho needs to be washed off before painting and someone I know was told to use original Windex as a final prep before painting his car. After those steps his vehicle’s paint still looks outstanding.

How did your hood turn out?

I’m thinking about using Ospho on a gas tank. The tank’s inside is super clean, just the outside is rusty and it will be power washed and scrubbed with 3M pads. Maybe add a molasses soak too.

What could go wrong, Haywire 440

ospho needs to be flushed away thoroughly with water and air dried......

ospho can be applied and can sit as a rust inhibitor for long periods of time. When it's time to remove the ospho, it must be "re-wet" with fresh ospho and allowed a few minutes to react; then flush well with water. Rubber gloves and a red scotch brite will also speed things along.

the hood is back in one piece, I sand blasted the frame and epoxied everything........ I also used ospho to clean up the topside of the hood and fenders

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oh, and I just dropped 4 coil springs in my molasses bath, I pull em out in a month
 
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