Mopar ignition box

[dan juhasz]

Hi all, if I wanted to buy a new old stock mopar ignition module, would anyone know what part numbers would be appropriate? I'm tried of the shoddy quality of the orange and blue modules.
Dan

 

[Mopars & Missiles]

The Chrome box ECU is p/n P4120534. Good to 8K rpm.

But...... I don't think Mopar Performance is making them anymore and the stock has all but dried up. If you can find one, better buy it.

But...... Mancini Racing is supposedly working with the original vendor to make another batch of these and they will then be sold through Mancini. I'm told this is in the works and will take a few months before they are available.

 

[dan juhasz]

The Chrome box ECU is p/n P4120534. Good to 8K rpm.

But...... I don't think Mopar Performance is making them anymore and the stock has all but dried up. If you can find one, better buy it.

But...... Mancini Racing is supposedly working with the original vendor to make another batch of these and they will then be sold through Mancini. I'm told this is in the works and will take a few months before they are available.

Thanks for the info, I don't take the revs past 5500-6000. Would any of the factory black boxes be suitable ?

 

[Lefty71]

The Chrome box ECU is p/n P4120534. Good to 8K rpm.

Agreed. I always had good luck with the chrome box, but not much luck with the others... I doubt the "good to 8k" claim they made though. I noticed when drag racing, the motor could definitely be heard breaking up as it approached speed.... My best advice, if you want the look of originality is leave that last burnt up black box on the firewall, and hide yourself an MSD 6 box somewhere, and rock on.. HTH, Lefty71

 

[Lefty71]

I don't take the revs past 5500-6000

Of course.... if you are street driving only anyway, any original part for your car is going to work just like it did in the old days...

 

[Mopars & Missiles]

..... I don't take the revs past 5500-6000.....

Well I don't either, but just because its advertised to be good for 8K rpm doesn't mean you have to wind your engine that tight. It works just fine at street rpm's and it can be easily hidden if you want to keep it original looking.

 

[dan juhasz]

Of course.... if you are street driving only anyway, any original part for your car is going to work just like it did in the old days...

None were for 6 cylinder only that type of thing. Does 4 or 5 pin make a difference?

 

[Lefty71]

Nope, I think almost any 4 pin is gonna fly. 6, small 8 and 440's are all the same. What exactly is your application to be sure?? And is it converted electronic, or original??

 

[dan juhasz]

Nope, I think almost any 4 pin is gonna fly. 6, small 8 and 440's are all the same. What exactly is your application to be sure?? And is it converted electronic, or original??

Converted electronic, 67 440 gtx

 

[Lefty71]

Converted electronic, 67 440 gtx

That used to come with the chrome box, now comes with the orange box. Both 4 pins, and application differences were all in the distributor, IIRC. You can still buy replacement boxes through any parts store. You don't have to use the ones Summit, Jegs, Mancini, etc sell. They cost as little as $11 on Rockauto. They would of course likely be Chinese, but maybe not.... I wonder if Napa or a reputable auto store may be a better source?? HTH, lefty71

 

[Lefty71]

Napa Echlin #ECH TP51 Looks like a chrome box, comes with a 5 year warrantee.... $62.00

 

[moes]

check this out. I know alot of my Mopar friends run this box on their cars. They say it works great and has rev limiting protection to.

http://www.manciniracing.com/reeligcoun1.html

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/rev-n-nator-electronic-ignition-by-rt-garage/

 

[mopar 3 B]

I am running a black box to 6800 with no problems. The stock valve train will not support much over 5800.

 

[BeepBeepRR]

here ya go. https://www.ebay.com/itm/mopar-chro...436786?hash=item46846cd972:g:5IsAAOSw4idbjdLA

 

[mopar73dge]

I have a NOS 5 pin unit, looks great with a stamped part number and partial star on it. used it for one day to try out, works fine if you are interested we can exchange info and a price with shipping on private message section

 

[rumblefish360]

Hi all, if I wanted to buy a new old stock mopar ignition module, would anyone know what part numbers would be appropriate? I'm tried of the shoddy quality of the orange and blue modules.
Dan

The Chrysler broke box is a hotter ignition and better to use over any box MP has in most duties. There Gold box is racing only.

The only other boxes that have shown themselves better that I have found is the FBO box and the Revenator. I have not used the Revenator but I have used the FBO box. It was very good.

The MP engines book has wiring details for the MP boxes. It is easy to modify if need be or install where they never came in due to the car being an earlier year vehicle. It is simple, very simple.

 

[mopar73dge]

When you installed the FBO box did you add the limiter plate to your distributor? and did you connect the vacuum advance direct to the intake or use the carb port vacuum ? thanks, Mike

 

[rumblefish360]

No limited plate needed, timed port on the carb.

 

[mopar73dge]

Mine too, Don form 4secflat out of Oregon sent that with the coil and ECU. my timing is fine using ported vacuum, a direct to intake vacuum makes the engine over advanced at idle, with my 430 inch, Mopar purple cam in the 318, I have my idle time set at 24 deg, which is 21.5 over the factory stock engine, the car runs very well, and starts like it use to back in the 80s with one quick turn of the key after sitting for 5min or more. thanks for your info

 

[Bill Monk]

When you installed the FBO box did you add the limiter plate to your distributor? and did you connect the vacuum advance direct to the intake or use the carb port vacuum ? thanks, Mike

I run the FBO ignition as well, I run the vacuum advance to manifold vacuum. This is a source of contention and opinions on it are split but it works well for me. There is no disputing that all vacuum advance was connected to manifold vacuum before the emissions stuff started. Don curved and phased my distributor so no limiter needed in my application