mopar mega block

[Tex013]

I like the Milodon road race pan . On 2 different b bodies ,my 68 and friends 65 , both late K frames I had to trim on steering box mount slightly . Have had 2 small leaks occur on mine at weld points . I have had the pan for about 7 years

Tex

 

[6PKRTSE]

Looks good from my house. Nice build.

 

[stage3]

I like the Milodon road race pan . On 2 different b bodies ,my 68 and friends 65 , both late K frames I had to trim on steering box mount slightly . Have had 2 small leaks occur on mine at weld points . I have had the pan for about 7 years

Tex

i tried putting that pan but couldnt because the passenger side kick out was well into the crossmember. only major surgery would make it work, unlike this pan that didnt because the kickout on that side is smaller...But thats also why they advertise it as 66 and up...unlike this moroso aluminum unit..

 

[malex]

had the afternoon to myself so i installed the motor today, had to know whether the new pan would fit, according to mr stanley it would,,,,,and it did. low profile moroso aluminum 7 QT pan, hangs 1 " below the 1963 K member which has the inner lip cut off and welded up. cutouts on both sides, the passenger side is 1" less wide than the driver for offset motors Unlike the milodon unit... some thought was put into that . complete with internal trap doors and anti slosh plate. external pick up only with a dip stick provision...and i did install hockey pucks on the front as stops per malex...lol.

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Ha ha. Good on you! I was seeing lots of blue sky this weekend and never a worry now. Oil pan vs track is a thing of the past. See pic oil pan saver.

 

[stage3]

Ha ha. Good on you! I was seeing lots of blue sky this weekend and never a worry now. Oil pan vs track is a thing of the past. See pic oil pan saver.
View attachment 1691439

Looking Good ! when i fixed/replaced the stablizer bars with pst adjustable units i installed REgulation hockey pucks, No fakers ! lol..that 7 qt pan hangs down along way, internal pickup, sized up to 1/2" ? this block was factory setup with the half inch pickup, it now has a plug in it..

 

[stage3]

the hemi wedge lives !!

crank trigger ignition is set at 35 degree's , rock solid timing marks at idle even with a .678 roller. 1977 mopar lean burn distributor was used factory locked.

as usual must keep an eye on the bronze drive gear even though the teeth on the cam was smoothed, it shows wear mated with initial start up for 20 minutes before draining oil out. 10w-40 at 60lbs. need to get an older back in the day cam that is contoured better for bronze gear longevity and have it reground..distributor has a lock collar that was set at .015.

relashed the valves today and ready to go. will take it out later this week around the valley and check that bronze gear again..mite have a line on composite drive gears to replace the bronze, was told they r being machines now. i hear its lots of fun changing gears on those intermediate shafts without ruining them...

 

[stage3]

Update, it runs great ! put appx 2 hours on it today driving around the back roads. i can tell its a Beast.
Tomorrow will check valve lash and the Bronze drive gear.

But for those that may be interested i found a source for Composite oil pump shaft drive gears, talking to wade today on the phone from bopen eng they have been supplying them for 15 years to brand X guys. and Now they have them for chrysler big blocks..i have 1 coming already, they say they r supplying them to ray barton..i literally tripped across them on ebay and ended up buying direct. below r the links to the ebay ad and the home site to the manf. they dont have them listed yet on the web site but that is the place producing them..FYI.

Mopar B/RB 383, 440, 426 Hemi Carbon Ultra-Poly Composite Distributor Gear 0.484 | eBay

BOP Engineering, your source for High Performance Buick, Oldsmobile and Pontiac Parts

 

[stage3]

installed the new Composite gear on a new milodon 21525 shaft today. alot easier to press than the bronze gear but it is .001 undersize to the shaft. lining up the pin hole was the hardest part, ended up a hair off so i just ran a drill threw it and installed the pin which it came with a new 1.

will run it around the valley again this weekend and check it for wear. Hopefully its as durable as they r advertised. we will see.

 

[Fran Blacker]

installed the new Composite gear on a new milodon 21525 shaft today. alot easier to press than the bronze gear but it is .001 undersize to the shaft. lining up the pin hole was the hardest part, ended up a hair off so i just ran a drill threw it and installed the pin which it came with a new 1.

will run it around the valley again this weekend and check it for wear. Hopefully its as durable as they r advertised. we will see.

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Once I pulled my MP distributor and the roll pin was sticking out an 1/8". Ran a piece of wire through roll pin twist wise an soldered the twist. Probably don't need to but something to think about.

 

[malex]

installed the new Composite gear on a new milodon 21525 shaft today. alot easier to press than the bronze gear but it is .001 undersize to the shaft. lining up the pin hole was the hardest part, ended up a hair off so i just ran a drill threw it and installed the pin which it came with a new 1.

will run it around the valley again this weekend and check it for wear. Hopefully its as durable as they r advertised. we will see.

View attachment 1704578

I installed one on my parts chaser 10 years ago. Never an issue since. Prior to that I had chewed up a brass gear on the solid billet camshaft and that’s why I switched.

 

[stage3]

Once I pulled my MP distributor and the roll pin was sticking out an 1/8". Ran a piece of wire through roll pin twist wise an soldered the twist. Probably don't need to but something to think about.

i was thinking about putting a safty wire thru the pin and using a twist tool to secure it. the new roll pin was tite though when i pressed it in.

 

[stage3]

I installed one on my parts chaser 10 years ago. Never an issue since. Prior to that I had chewed up a brass gear on the solid billet camshaft and that’s why I switched.

still brass in the 64 ?

 

[malex]

still brass in the 64 ?

Yes for now.

 

[dvw]

The engine in my Racecar has a bronze gear. It runs a high volume pump (80psi). Same gear since 2013 with nearly 1100 passes. To this day very little wear. It outlasted the camshaft.
Doug

 

[not so famous bob]

The engine in my Racecar has a bronze gear. It runs a high volume pump (80psi). Same gear since 2013 with nearly 1100 passes. To this day very little wear. It outlasted the camshaft.
Doug

I have had one of the melonized steel gears in my 505 for about 12th yrs now , no wear yet...

 

[stage3]

The engine in my Racecar has a bronze gear. It runs a high volume pump (80psi). Same gear since 2013 with nearly 1100 passes. To this day very little wear. It outlasted the camshaft.
Doug

thats geat,,whats the secret ? do u have an older cam that had better teeth profile and had it reground ? polish the teeth smooth to remove the machine marks ? etc, everywhere i look including on GM and ford, pontiac sites etc they All are having this problem of the cam eating the bronze gears..

Thanks.

 

[dvw]

thats geat,,whats the secret ? do u have an older cam that had better teeth profile and had it reground ? polish the teeth smooth to remove the machine marks ? etc, everywhere i look including on GM and ford, pontiac sites etc they All are having this problem of the cam eating the bronze gears..

Thanks.

Both cams were Comp. Washed them and installed them. To be honest no one I race with has complained about gear wear. I race against all makes.
Doug

 

[stage3]

put another 2 hours drive time on it today. runs great...today was with the composite gear. the 1st outing also 2 hours along with initial startup was with the milodon bronze gear. they both show wear/mating themselves to the cam gear but the composite shows alot less wear. i smoothed the cam gear with a dremel and sand paper like i have done before but apparently not enough. looking down thru the hole i can see machining marks on the cam gear which i probably should have removed.

next outing will be scotts valley car show after we get back from hot august nites Reno next week. and i will run the composite again and check the wear after..

 

[stage3]

Update on the intermediate gear wear.

composite gear now has over 5 hours on it with a comp cam that is hostile towards brass gears. the composite gear has mated itself to the cam and appears to not be wearing substantially any more. very little difference between the previously posted pics and these. as stated the distributor shaft has a collar on it to keep the gear from climbing Pinned to the dist shaft, so if anyone is looking for a better choice than brass this could be it. although a steel gear would work also with a steel cam.

Now if i could just get the toothed fan belt from slipping on the doti manf crank pulley. ruff it up with a file ?

this 500" Hemi/wedge runs Great !

 

[not so famous bob]

the hemi wedge lives !!

crank trigger ignition is set at 35 degree's , rock solid timing marks at idle even with a .678 roller. 1977 mopar lean burn distributor was used factory locked.

as usual must keep an eye on the bronze drive gear even though the teeth on the cam was smoothed, it shows wear mated with initial start up for 20 minutes before draining oil out. 10w-40 at 60lbs. need to get an older back in the day cam that is contoured better for bronze gear longevity and have it reground..distributor has a lock collar that was set at .015.

relashed the valves today and ready to go. will take it out later this week around the valley and check that bronze gear again..mite have a line on composite drive gears to replace the bronze, was told they r being machines now. i hear its lots of fun changing gears on those intermediate shafts without ruining them...

View attachment 1699035

why not go to a melonized steel gear , (hughs engines) , had one in my 505 for about 12ish yrs , solid street roller , no wear >>>