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Mopar Performace Valvecovers

Metaldad, what kind of spark plug wire looms are you using?
 
That reminds me, what is a good plug to use with a mild built 440. Prefer NGK if possible
 
MP used to have a grommet kit for these but they DISCONTINUED IT for some stupid reason.

After endless phone calls and research, I found Part No. P524 9642 which contains the right PCV grommet and a plug. It replaced popular Part No. P500 7921.

These covers are a half inch thick where the knock out area is, and most generic Help Section grommet kits aren't thick enough to go all the way through.
 
Like previously stated, need to knock out the blanks and install your pcv valve / breather. I found these old Holley valve cover pics as an example. This person installed baffles in every opening. You wouldn't do that over the oil fill.
s-l500.jpg

s-l500.jpg
 
Looks like with a little cnc work you could have the rare Direct Connection Covers:)
400 small block- the one they should have made
actually discontinued the LA and used the AMC 290-400
It has the same bore centers as the Buick at 4.750 just .050 less than the BBM
4.315 was no problem with the heavy wall 4.250 blocks and the jackets were not pushed out to the max (stock was 4.165 on the 390 & 401)
we used 4.250 in some Trans Am builds with a really short stroke and then some with the stock 390 forged crank stroke and a roller cam
That motor ran at NASCAR Riverside race in a Matador- great heads on those motors
 
I hope you're using headers. I couldn't install mine with hp manifolds.
I "test fitted" the HP manifolds and the fit but the right side manifold is just a gnats *** away from the valve cover. Likely to get hot.
Need to decide whether or not to change valve covers.
 
When I had the MP V/C's on the GTX with HP manifolds, they were fine. Just make sure the gasket isnt sticking out and touching the manifold
 
For some reason my right manifold is angled tight to the chrome cover. No room for the nice new MP covers i picked up.
 
I had the same issues with the socket hard to go on the bolts.
I had a old socket i grinded down on the outside to fit easier in the corner and works fine.
On the picture i have to screw in type breathers, but after i changed the setup for better crankcase vent.
I installed a filler cap on the driver side (front) and knocked out the blank on the rear side and installed a vent valve there, so all air is vented from passenger side in and sucked out on the driver side.

IMG_7784.JPG
 
I put this set on my 440 yesterday.
First of all, I had a heck of a time getting the two bottom bolts on each cover in. They wanted to get too close to the cover and couldn't get a socket or wrench on them. Has anybody else had trouble.

Also, there's no place for a breather, how's the motor supposed to vent, do I need to remove one of them and drill a hole?
View attachment 579182
I use the ARP bolts for cast aluminum valve covers.
 
On the picture i have to screw in type breathers, but after i changed the setup for better crankcase vent.
I installed a filler cap on the driver side (front) and knocked out the blank on the rear side and installed a vent valve there, so all air is vented from passenger side in and sucked out on the driver side.

View attachment 579695
If I'm understanding you correctly, it sounds like you have the crankcase ventilated, but not "positive" ventilation, unless by "vent valve" you mean a PCV valve.
 
If I'm understanding you correctly, it sounds like you have the crankcase ventilated, but not "positive" ventilation, unless by "vent valve" you mean a PCV valve.

Yes, you are correct.
I installed a PCV valve, kinda forgot about the name :)
 
Typical Mopar move for discontinuing one of the items needed for the install. You will have to figure out what to do for the grommets. For sure you need to get a baffle on the back sides of the holes you have, especially the PCV one, otherwise you will suck the oil out of the engine and end up with your personal "Holiday Fogger" when its running.
 
My rocker covers were supplied with a baffle plate in each cover.
It was originally installed under the screw in type holes where i put my filler plug.
After i removed the blank for the PCV valve i moved the baffle plate over to the PCV location as the baffle can be installed on either side.
 
You can use studs, bolts with the small heads, or allen-head bolts and a washer as mentioned above. Here are a few photos from ARP.

ARP_Valve_Cover_Bolts_and_Valve_Cover_Studs.jpg


F142787033.jpg
 
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