• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Motor decision (383 vs 440)

Why 500 HP? I'm just sayin' you can burn a lot of rubber and have loads of fun with a lot less than 500 HP. But if you must approach the big power numbers then start with a 440....Because the only substitute for cubic inches is more cubic inches.
 
Bahahahaha! That's Funny! Formula One...

I'm writing that down so I can remember to say it to someone some day.



Man, I have made a couple people smile today..That is a GREAT day indeed! I think we all need to smile more than we do!
 
500 HP is just a number. The car has been in my family since 1970, and my dad used to race it years ago. He turned it back into more of a stock motor when he repainted the engine compartment in the early 90s. I'm looking to make some more horsepower, and as you said "burn a lot of rubber and have loads of fun". The block in the car currently is not #s matching, so it's not a necessity to keep it.

I have an a 383 and 440 on the side, so I can go either direction in building the kind of motor I want to put into the car. I sometimes think against putting a 440 in the car because my year model didn't offer the 440 and from the outside, my car does look pretty original.

Thanks for the input...makes me consider going the other route possibly.

Why 500 HP? I'm just sayin' you can burn a lot of rubber and have loads of fun with a lot less than 500 HP. But if you must approach the big power numbers then start with a 440....Because the only substitute for cubic inches is more cubic inches.
 
500 inch stroked 383....winds like a stock 383, and has the torque of a 440. but if you need to save $$, go with the 440.
 
Cost to rebuild a 383/440 are close to the same. So go the 440 route. Most people can't tell the difference between 383/440 just by looking. Use some good heads, alum if you can afford to. Performer RPM intake, Moderate cam around .510 lift, and 292 duration, should work well on the street. And headers always helps power output.
 
The block in the car currently is not #s matching, so it's not a necessity to keep it.

I have an a 383 and 440 on the side, so I can go either direction in building the kind of motor I want to put into the car.

Well that changes everything. I agree, have fun building the 440 while still being able to drive the car. Best bang for the buck AND you're car isn't laid up for a year.
 
500 HP is just a number. The car has been in my family since 1970, and my dad used to race it years ago. He turned it back into more of a stock motor when he repainted the engine compartment in the early 90s. I'm looking to make some more horsepower, and as you said "burn a lot of rubber and have loads of fun". The block in the car currently is not #s matching, so it's not a necessity to keep it.

I have an a 383 and 440 on the side, so I can go either direction in building the kind of motor I want to put into the car. I sometimes think against putting a 440 in the car because my year model didn't offer the 440 and from the outside, my car does look pretty original.

Thanks for the input...makes me consider going the other route possibly.

But your year car was offered with a 426 wedge, which is nearly identical in appearance to a 440 (tall deck and all). The 440 is sounding better by the minute...
 
Yes, it was offered in the 426 wedge. That was one of the reasons I was considering doing the 440, and making it look like a wedge motor. Just depends on how much $$$ I want to spend...isn't that always the question? haha.

But your year car was offered with a 426 wedge, which is nearly identical in appearance to a 440 (tall deck and all). The 440 is sounding better by the minute...
 
The 383 will run better below 40 mph and after that the 440 will pass it quickly. However most driving will be at the lower end.
Myself have a former 440 Highway patrol engine that MIGHT find its home in my grandfathers 65 Coronet instead of its 383. Planning to run a 2.76 Eaton posi with the 727 transmission with a very mild close to stock cam.
 
Here ya go, build a 440, put on any intake and heads you want, just spray em orange and install the 426 wedge stickers and be done. This one is courtesy of 383man, on of our members here.

image.jpg
 
500hp is just a number. I bet ported alum heads and cam get you there for 1/3 the cost of a complete stroker.

IMHFO you should do that no matter whether it's a 383 a 440 or even a 572ci stroker, I like the 383-400 B-Low deck based strokers, it's lighter, shorter, narrower, has better/stronger more stable main webs... Easily build a 431- 451ci with a Forged steel or cast 440/3.75" crankshaft reduce sized 2.625" B-Block mains size & cut down the counter-weights to 7.20" diameter, is relatively cheap...

Also a wise man once told me, 3 things you need when building an engine to make the best power possible, cylinder heads cylinder heads cylinder heads, have a set professionally ported for you, could be the best money spent on your build, I like/prefer an aluminum head too, most will flow better to begin with, right out of the box, better than most ported iron heads & the weight saving equals better performance, handling, wear & tear on other parts like shocks, springs, tires, brakes etc. Good luck
 
IMHFO you should do that no matter whether it's a 383 a 440 or even a 572ci stroker, I like the 383-400 B-Low deck based strokers, it's lighter, shorter, narrower, has better/stronger more stable main webs... Easily build a 431- 451ci with a Forged steel or cast 440/3.75" crankshaft reduce sized 2.625" B-Block mains size & cut down the counter-weights to 7.20" diameter, is relatively cheap...

Also a wise man once told me, 3 things you need when building an engine to make the best power possible, cylinder heads cylinder heads cylinder heads, have a set professionally ported for you, could be the best money spent on your build, I like/prefer an aluminum head too, most will flow better to begin with, right out of the box, better than most ported iron heads & the weight saving equals better performance, handling, wear & tear on other parts like shocks, springs, tires, brakes etc. Good luck

I'm no expert but seriously listen to what Cranky and Budnicks are telling you. They should charge big $$ for their advice.

Muscle Motors has some great 383/400 stroker packages for the money.

I have said it before and I'll say it again. I have beaten more 440's than I have lost to with a tweaked 383. (Of course driver skill had a little to do with it) The old "no replacement for displacement" is chest beating bullshit in this case. Between a 400 and 440 we're talking the difference of a 650cc motorcycle when it comes to displacement.
 
Thanks for all the advice, that's why I'm here! I tried calling Muscle Motors yesterday, got no answer, so I sent them an email. I've decided to go with a 383 stroker kit from Muscle Motors. Ported aluminum heads and cam were always in the plan.

Even though I like the idea of going with the 440, and making it a wedge motor, the 383 is what came in the car and what should stay in the car IMO. Time to get to work on getting the block ready! Anyone know of a good machinist in the Cleveland area?

Thanks for all the input and advice, it is greatly appreciated.

I'm no expert but seriously listen to what Cranky and Budnicks are telling you. They should charge big $$ for their advice.

Muscle Motors has some great 383/400 stroker packages for the money.

I have said it before and I'll say it again. I have beaten more 440's than I have lost to with a tweaked 383. (Of course driver skill had a little to do with it) The old "no replacement for displacement" is chest beating bullshit in this case. Between a 400 and 440 we're talking the difference of a 650cc motorcycle when it comes to displacement.
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top