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Motor is running rough..

67coronetman

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Ok guys here is what i have my 440 went down a few months back due to a roller lifter failing.. So i pulled it all a part cleaned it and of course used all new parts where needed i did not have the money for a roller cam & lifters so i used a mopar 312/590 cam and lifters with the correct springs on the heads. I put the motor back just like i had it from before except for the roller cam & lifters i got it started but it runs rough it misses at idel & when you bring up the RPM It misses & the motor shakes not violent but more than it should and when its running and you stand behind the car it should have a crisp cam sound or flow coming out is how i put it. Its very funky sounding not a sweet rumble sound like you would think...

Here are a few things i have checked so far...

1. Plugs & wires & cap & rotor

2. Cleaned and check the carb very good seems to be operating correct.

3. Checked for Vacuum leaks & found None.

4. Fuel filter is clean & free.

5. I have not found any wires touching or shorting out any where.

Things i am going to do still and any help would be very appreciated.

6. Do a compression test.

7. Recheck my timing & Distributor placement.

I am very frustrated at this point & need some advise & help thanks again.
 

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Not sure i dont think so but i will be checking that again later today when i get home from work.
 
Sounds like you have a plug wire installed on the wrong cylinder.

^^^ I've swapped a couple plug wires by mistake and it ran just like you describe. Don't worry about the distributor being 180 off ... it would only be launching fireballs and not be running if that were the case.
 
I checked them already but hey my eyes ain't what they use to be maybe i will check them again..
 
New cam and lifters broke in like they are supposed to be? Have you don't that compression check yet?
 
Would it be possible cam and crank are not timed correctly? Is the new cam hyd or solid lifter? Valve lash to tight and valves not closing?
 
cornetman,a .590 lift cam + another .060 =.650 total to spring stack. if your valves were not all checked for top retainer/seal-guide clearance as well as total to spring stack with a dial indicator you might have some problems there. I know many use monster lifts any more but .590 lift on most all heads need machine work at these areas. good luck.
 
Get the compression numbers and go from there Mark, if they look good you can assume its electrical/fuel. You didn't get the timing set a tooth off by accident did ya?
 
Wild a$$ guess

almost sounds like a flat cam
or a messed up lobe somewhere,
recheck the valve lash, it could be a bent push rod
or loose or too tight of valve lash too {what's the cold valve lash set at now}
maybe spring bind or broken inner or outer valve spring,
way out of time or not degreed/dialed in correctly,
was it installed @ 0* or was it advanced or retarded at the camshaft,
any cam dowel bushings ?? if so what degree,
what's the ignition timing at now ??, probably should be in the 20* BTDC range @ idle & 34*-36* total
retarded camshaft or just installed wrong, tooth off ???

especially if everything else already checks out OK...

kind of hard to tell by your description "not crisp & very funky sounding"

good luck



how's the oil look is it real metallic looking
 
I drained the oil today and i found no metal... i am going to recheck my valve lash today plus i put the cam in 4 degrees advanced like i have all my cams for years and had all the marks lined up like they should be... I really think its a bad cam lobe i may be wrong but after today i should know more.
 
Well update a friend of mine and me where talking and figured out what was wrong... And man do i feel STUPID...
 
Had similar symptoms once with idle and acceleration. Voltage regulator plug came loose. Took most of the day looking at everything else before I saw it.
 
I hooked up my wires from the MSD Distributor to the MSD box wrong.. i feel so dumb..
 
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