DynaBro
Well-Known Member
And there was oil under the driver side hood springs for some reason. And here's the engine stamping.
My 1970 Super Bee 383 A31 car
- Thread starter DynaBro
- Start date
- Local time
- 9:26 PM
- Joined
- Jan 29, 2018
- Messages
- 20,800
- Reaction score
- 72,181
- Location
- Midland Ontario, Canada
Cold or after warmed up. 80 doesn't bother me. My 383 Bee fires and starts at 85psi and at temp and driving 60 or so. My Hemi cold is 90.
First, check the oil pressure with a good mechanical gauge.
Check with the engine builder to see if he changed the pressure relief spring in the oil pump or installed a high volume oil pump (maybe a HVHP).
80 psi wouldn't bother me on startup with cold, heavyweight oil.
DynaBro
Well-Known Member
Warmed up. Sure but your Bee is like beyond perfect and you rehabbed literally every atom of it personally. You know it's behaving properly. But that is comforting feedback. My temp is fine. Even seemed a bit cool. Maybe I left the N96 open. Car drives pretty good. Finding 1st and 2nd is a tight squeeze, very easy to slide into 3rd instead of 1st. Wish I could get the tach to work, it's a wiring issue but a mess under there right now.
Buyer's remorse?
I hope not.
1) you don't need to prime the oil. You didn't let it sit for a long time.
2) I have no suggestions for an oil pump gasket. Do you know that is the source of your oil leak?
It's difficult to determine the condition of things in pictures, but keep an eye on that lower radiator hose.
DynaBro
Well-Known Member
I guess it depends on that main seal leak. That cardboard is what collected overnight.Buyer's remorse?
I hope not.
1) you don't need to prime the oil. You didn't let it sit for a long time.
2) I have no suggestions for an oil pump gasket. Do you know that is the source of your oil leak?
It's difficult to determine the condition of things in pictures, but keep an eye on that lower radiator hose.
It's the model you have always wanted and yours is nicely optioned. It's an old car. Enjoy the journey!
barbee6043
Well-Known Member
- Local time
- 8:26 PM
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2008
- Messages
- 2,569
- Reaction score
- 2,511
- Location
- S E Texas. Shepherd, texas
Remember, these old Mopars were not usually 100% perfect even when new!!
Over the decades I found and had so many 68-70 b body plymouths, but found only 1 70 Bee!
They are the coolest looking car at night with street lights shining upon them!
You are a lucky guy!
Over the decades I found and had so many 68-70 b body plymouths, but found only 1 70 Bee!
They are the coolest looking car at night with street lights shining upon them!
You are a lucky guy!
DynaBro
Well-Known Member
I'm not losing my cool or anything I just think these issues were hidden by the seller. He had a lift and a fridge full of beer is a huge clean working environment, his dad, and a neighbor who just hung out there all day with them in the outbuilding. They knew how to fix stuff. They could have buttoned this stuff up for the price they asked before the sale. Maybe even got the tach moving. Which isn't the end of the world for me but I'd rather not have to deal with oil leaks that demand addressing on day one. Anyway, suppose I have all winter with nothing to do and you guys to help me along to get it all done. Maybe I'll even get squirrely and try to paint that dog.
Not to be pedantic, but those numbers and letters are cast with the block. They are not stampings.
Maybe you're looking for the partial VIN stamped on the flat pad on the passenger side of the block just above the oil pan? I thought you had already checked.
- Local time
- 9:26 PM
- Joined
- Jan 29, 2018
- Messages
- 20,800
- Reaction score
- 72,181
- Location
- Midland Ontario, Canada
The engine in my Bee was rebuilt for $350 in 1977 ! I've done nothing to it since, other than a timing chain and gears and valve seals !!!
DynaBro
Well-Known Member
Oh I know this is not the original bock I just took photos of those numbers while I was down there so see what it actually was. Seems to be period and model correct.
As previously mentioned, I would suspect the seals inside the oil pump. $11.00 for a gasket kit, cheap and easy. If you drive in cold weather, I personally would swap out the high pressure spring with a standard one while the pump is out. It's not common, but it is possible to shear an intermediate shaft or balloon an oil filter.
Milodon 21591 Milodon Oil Pump Gaskets | Summit Racing
Edit
I think Milodon fixed the issue, but if you order the gasket set above, check the paper gasket for all the holes cut out. If you read the reviews, some of them weren't cut properly and blocked the supply passage. Also it might not come with the relief valve gasket.
Milodon 21591 Milodon Oil Pump Gaskets | Summit Racing
Edit
I think Milodon fixed the issue, but if you order the gasket set above, check the paper gasket for all the holes cut out. If you read the reviews, some of them weren't cut properly and blocked the supply passage. Also it might not come with the relief valve gasket.
Last edited:
DynaBro
Well-Known Member
I'm of the same opinion after inspecting this morning. The dripping is on the oil pan side of the K member right on the corner where the oil pan curves. Nothing else could end up there and there's nothing I see leaking from above.
I am also thinking the fan clutch MIGHT be the correct one. Judging by photos only, without seeing the face of it against the radiator, that looks a just like 2806070. Unless they all look the same from the side and back?
DynaBro
Well-Known Member
Update: It was not the correct clutch. Very odd they would not have reused the correct OEM equipment when installing this motor given they had the original one on hand. Why track down a viscous fan setup instead? Anyway, seeking
2863216 fan
2806070 clutch
And front valance trim molding.
Finally putting some miles on the car though the backroads of WI out in barn country and it's driving a lot better. Initially it was very tricky getting into first and second. Was very easy to slip over into third instead of first unless you were paying very close attention and everyone else who drove it made the same mistake. But now things seem to have loosened up and shifting is improved. Does not want to stay in first at stops, however. I have to keep the shifter pressed forward otherwise it slides back and sometimes out of gear. That's a bit of a hassle. Getting a sort of whoosh whoosh whoosh sound at high speeds. Assuming that's normal. Also I leave the N96 open (the cable is missing so I have to set it by hand with the hood up) and that might have to do with it? Oil pressure is always just shy of 80. Temp always reads like 170-80 which seems ok. Still can't figure out how to get the tach working but the clock stopped as well. The wiring is a bit of a mess. Wish I was starting it from scratch.
Leaks from the oil pump. Will fix shortly. Leaks from the main seal. Will ignore forever.
2863216 fan
2806070 clutch
And front valance trim molding.
Finally putting some miles on the car though the backroads of WI out in barn country and it's driving a lot better. Initially it was very tricky getting into first and second. Was very easy to slip over into third instead of first unless you were paying very close attention and everyone else who drove it made the same mistake. But now things seem to have loosened up and shifting is improved. Does not want to stay in first at stops, however. I have to keep the shifter pressed forward otherwise it slides back and sometimes out of gear. That's a bit of a hassle. Getting a sort of whoosh whoosh whoosh sound at high speeds. Assuming that's normal. Also I leave the N96 open (the cable is missing so I have to set it by hand with the hood up) and that might have to do with it? Oil pressure is always just shy of 80. Temp always reads like 170-80 which seems ok. Still can't figure out how to get the tach working but the clock stopped as well. The wiring is a bit of a mess. Wish I was starting it from scratch.
Leaks from the oil pump. Will fix shortly. Leaks from the main seal. Will ignore forever.
Similar threads
