My 1970 Super Bee 383 A31 car

[DynaBro]

And there was oil under the driver side hood springs for some reason. And here's the engine stamping.

 

[dadsbee]

Close to 80

Cold or after warmed up. 80 doesn't bother me. My 383 Bee fires and starts at 85psi and at temp and driving 60 or so. My Hemi cold is 90.

 

[DeltaV]

Close to 80

First, check the oil pressure with a good mechanical gauge.

Check with the engine builder to see if he changed the pressure relief spring in the oil pump or installed a high volume oil pump (maybe a HVHP).

80 psi wouldn't bother me on startup with cold, heavyweight oil.

 

[DynaBro]

Warmed up. Sure but your Bee is like beyond perfect and you rehabbed literally every atom of it personally. You know it's behaving properly. But that is comforting feedback. My temp is fine. Even seemed a bit cool. Maybe I left the N96 open. Car drives pretty good. Finding 1st and 2nd is a tight squeeze, very easy to slide into 3rd instead of 1st. Wish I could get the tach to work, it's a wiring issue but a mess under there right now.

 

[DeltaV]

Well my car arrived yesterday and I am becoming a little bit disappointed in it's condition.

Buyer's remorse?

I hope not.

1) you don't need to prime the oil. You didn't let it sit for a long time.

2) I have no suggestions for an oil pump gasket. Do you know that is the source of your oil leak?

It's difficult to determine the condition of things in pictures, but keep an eye on that lower radiator hose.

 

[DynaBro]

Buyer's remorse?

I hope not.

1) you don't need to prime the oil. You didn't let it sit for a long time.

2) I have no suggestions for an oil pump gasket. Do you know that is the source of your oil leak?

It's difficult to determine the condition of things in pictures, but keep an eye on that lower radiator hose.

I guess it depends on that main seal leak. That cardboard is what collected overnight.

 

[DeltaV]

I guess it depends on that main seal leak. That cardboard is what collected overnight.

It's the model you have always wanted and yours is nicely optioned. It's an old car. Enjoy the journey!

 

[barbee6043]

Remember, these old Mopars were not usually 100% perfect even when new!!
Over the decades I found and had so many 68-70 b body plymouths, but found only 1 70 Bee!
They are the coolest looking car at night with street lights shining upon them!
You are a lucky guy!

 

[DynaBro]

I'm not losing my cool or anything I just think these issues were hidden by the seller. He had a lift and a fridge full of beer is a huge clean working environment, his dad, and a neighbor who just hung out there all day with them in the outbuilding. They knew how to fix stuff. They could have buttoned this stuff up for the price they asked before the sale. Maybe even got the tach moving. Which isn't the end of the world for me but I'd rather not have to deal with oil leaks that demand addressing on day one. Anyway, suppose I have all winter with nothing to do and you guys to help me along to get it all done. Maybe I'll even get squirrely and try to paint that dog.

 

[DeltaV]

And here's the engine stamping.

Not to be pedantic, but those numbers and letters are cast with the block. They are not stampings.

Maybe you're looking for the partial VIN stamped on the flat pad on the passenger side of the block just above the oil pan? I thought you had already checked.

 

[dadsbee]

Sure but your Bee is like beyond perfect

The engine in my Bee was rebuilt for $350 in 1977 ! I've done nothing to it since, other than a timing chain and gears and valve seals !!!

 

[DynaBro]

Not to be pedantic, but those numbers and letters are cast with the block. They are not stampings.

Maybe you're looking for the partial VIN stamped on the flat pad on the passenger side of the block just above the oil pan? I thought you had already checked.

Oh I know this is not the original bock I just took photos of those numbers while I was down there so see what it actually was. Seems to be period and model correct.

 

[OKDart]

As previously mentioned, I would suspect the seals inside the oil pump. $11.00 for a gasket kit, cheap and easy. If you drive in cold weather, I personally would swap out the high pressure spring with a standard one while the pump is out. It's not common, but it is possible to shear an intermediate shaft or balloon an oil filter.
Milodon 21591 Milodon Oil Pump Gaskets | Summit Racing

Edit
I think Milodon fixed the issue, but if you order the gasket set above, check the paper gasket for all the holes cut out. If you read the reviews, some of them weren't cut properly and blocked the supply passage. Also it might not come with the relief valve gasket.

 

[DynaBro]

As previously mentioned, I would suspect the seals inside the oil pump. $11.00 for a gasket kit, cheap and easy. If you drive in cold weather, I personally would swap out the high pressure spring with a standard one while the pump is out. It's not common, but it is possible to shear an intermediate shaft or balloon an oil filter.
Milodon 21591 Milodon Oil Pump Gaskets | Summit Racing

Edit
I think Milodon fixed the issue, but if you order the gasket set above, check the paper gasket for all the holes cut out. If you read the reviews, some of them weren't cut properly and blocked the supply passage. Also it might not come with the relief valve gasket.

I'm of the same opinion after inspecting this morning. The dripping is on the oil pan side of the K member right on the corner where the oil pan curves. Nothing else could end up there and there's nothing I see leaking from above.

I am also thinking the fan clutch MIGHT be the correct one. Judging by photos only, without seeing the face of it against the radiator, that looks a just like 2806070. Unless they all look the same from the side and back?

 

[DynaBro]

Update: It was not the correct clutch. Very odd they would not have reused the correct OEM equipment when installing this motor given they had the original one on hand. Why track down a viscous fan setup instead? Anyway, seeking
2863216 fan
2806070 clutch

And front valance trim molding.

Finally putting some miles on the car though the backroads of WI out in barn country and it's driving a lot better. Initially it was very tricky getting into first and second. Was very easy to slip over into third instead of first unless you were paying very close attention and everyone else who drove it made the same mistake. But now things seem to have loosened up and shifting is improved. Does not want to stay in first at stops, however. I have to keep the shifter pressed forward otherwise it slides back and sometimes out of gear. That's a bit of a hassle. Getting a sort of whoosh whoosh whoosh sound at high speeds. Assuming that's normal. Also I leave the N96 open (the cable is missing so I have to set it by hand with the hood up) and that might have to do with it? Oil pressure is always just shy of 80. Temp always reads like 170-80 which seems ok. Still can't figure out how to get the tach working but the clock stopped as well. The wiring is a bit of a mess. Wish I was starting it from scratch.

Leaks from the oil pump. Will fix shortly. Leaks from the main seal. Will ignore forever.

 

[DynaBro]

First, check the oil pressure with a good mechanical gauge.

Check with the engine builder to see if he changed the pressure relief spring in the oil pump or installed a high volume oil pump (maybe a HVHP).

80 psi wouldn't bother me on startup with cold, heavyweight oil.

The engine builder is long lost. Best I can do is eyeball the spring once I get the pump removed. Any tips on what I should be looking for to get some more info on my situation? Or maybe just buy a certain new spring now and install it regardless? The manual is sparse on oil pump removal stuff but has a lot about measuring tolerances I don't think is the issue. Per the oil pressure issue, yes driving it is always at 80 or near, and the needle is buried at points. I know you said you aren't worried when it's that high. My temp is usually like 180ish so I'm correlating that as good despite the high oil pressure. I don't have a gauge on hand, perhaps one of my neighbors does.

 

[hunt2elk]

80 pounds cold is not an issue. Like stated above, you need to check it with a good mechanical gauge to verify what you actually have. After the motor is hot is the number you should be looking at. In your pump, a red spring will be standard pressure, about 50 psi. A black spring will be high pressure - high volume, 70 psi. To lower the pressure of a black spring, you experiment by cutting the spring down. It doesn't take much to make a difference.

 

[cosgig]

I put a new boot on my shifter, now I have the same problem as you, it likes to pop out of first when sitting at a light. Hoping the boot loosens up over time and the problem fixes itself.

 

[DynaBro]

Got the tach working. That was exciting. Previous owner simply did not have it wired. Why not? Who knows. The wiring is all sturdy, it's just that no one trimmed it up and did a nice clean job of running the ignition system wires for the MSD, which I will do. So, the tach and clock are in perfect working condition.

While looking for the source of the fuel smell discovered thick oil pooled on the valley pan. Planning to remove the intake and replace that with all new gaskets shortly.

Electric choke isn't working properly. Will disassemble and inspect springs this week.

 

[DynaBro]

I put a new boot on my shifter, now I have the same problem as you, it likes to pop out of first when sitting at a light. Hoping the boot loosens up over time and the problem fixes itself.

I was thinking doing a full clutch adjustment would be a good plan considering how little the previous owner seems to have done. I think their plan was just "store indoors, don't drive often." I had not considered the boot but think mine is worn in adequately and likely not the issue.