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My 1978 Dodge Monaco 4 door sedan.

The other thing I forgot to add is the housing adjustments at the cable bracket. The thread part is installed close to the center of thread travel initially then you can fine tune the housing as well as the cable. I have a pic of the one on mine that has the lokar bracket for my sniper but it works the same.

200831CF-5F19-4100-A2B9-37550FC75AF7.jpeg
 
@64fury74charger thanks for that mate that's awesome ^^^

I actually don't have any more cable left on the kickdown, so I have to release some from the trans end. Did you have to cut your braid down a little? I've not cut the kickdown cable at all and it seems a bit short.
 
Gary P said:
@64fury74charger thanks for that mate that's awesome ^^^

I actually don't have any more cable left on the kickdown, so I have to release some from the trans end. Did you have to cut your braid down a little? I've not cut the kickdown cable at all and it seems a bit short.
Click to expand...
I left the cable pretty much full length until I had finished sorting out the adjustments and I would rather have the excess cables at the throttle than be short on length. It is really up to you how tidy it looks. For me it has to function and be adjustable for any future updates. You can see there’s lots of cable past the end connector.
 
Try to adjust the lower trans mo so the housing is moved in towards the cable end and this should give more cable up top. You can also adjust the top housing at the carb bracket.
 
Thanks man - I'm going to watch the second half of this dire World Cup game and I'll go back out and get on it.
 
Once you have a workable length of cable you can measure carefully and shorten the housing. I tried not to trim too much and hopefully only one housing cut. I do not generally cut the cables because it can unravel very easily. The housing length is the key. Hope this helps you.
 
Well that's England out of the World Cup.

Back to the car...

This is all too much for me sometimes;

1) The car shifts better when the trans arm is NOT half way through its travel like that article said.

2) On flat road, first holds on just a fraction too long, gently shifts into second and then third - good.

3) Flooring the gas makes the trans judder and shift immediately which is no good at all.

Logic does not apply here.

Is the spring on the trans arm they key? Let's see...
 
Maybe it was not mentioned but there were several "arms" or levers for both the shift selector and the KD/Throttle valve. Some were angled, some were straight. Some were short, others long.
I have spares. I have mixed and matched parts to get desired results before.
Gary...you are getting close and it is good to see bits of progress along the way. The car seems to run great.
 
Sounds like you have the 1,2&3 shift so now it is fine small adjustments to find the sweet spot for your transmission. A little either way. Time to drive and adjust, rinse and repeat. You’re there now.
 
Boys you're all awesome! I just had some success. I added a spring where @64fury74charger suggested...but I didn't adjust the cable one tiny bit. What the?

I am just making a video to show my confusion and to be annoying with my English accent. (I know that gets irritating so I apologize but I can't help that)

Give me ten mins to edit this vid and then be prepared to be confused...also a juddery start on full beans that I'm not sure what's causing it...timing?

Gimme ten...
 
Hi fella's.

Ok so, the article I posted above here, talked about having the trans arm well into it's travel curve, before it's tightened down. So at idle, the arm is well into its approximate 100 degree curve...in fact, the guy mentions the first half being redundant...
IMG_2300.jpeg


I did exactly this, and my transmission never got out of first. So that's a big no no then.

SO

I took all the tension off the KD cable, and added a return spring to the trans arm just as @64fury74charger had kindly posted, exactly as he had done below...
2AF5415B-3C20-4E73-BF28-F40F6BFEFE50.jpeg


I didn't adjust jack sh*t after adding this return spring, but...



and at 3:55 - juddering off the line on full beans...timing?
 
Add this to the list of frustrating things that happen to car guys:
You make a change that makes no sense but it fixes the problem.
 
Oh, yeah...me too.
I have been struggling for years trying to figure out why the brakes on my car have never been as good as they should.
"Not knowing why" is the eternal struggle for me as well.
 
Sounds like you’re close, maybe try to set the cable up so when you get wide open throttle the transmission arm is almost all the way to the rear of the transmission. My understanding is this is the correct way to set this up. This refers back to having the cables pull equal distance when the throttle moves. Hope this makes sense.
 
64fury74charger said:
Sounds like you’re close, maybe try to set the cable up so when you get wide open throttle the transmission arm is almost all the way to the rear of the transmission. My understanding is this is the correct way to set this up. This refers back to having the cables pull equal distance when the throttle moves. Hope this makes sense.
Click to expand...

It makes perfect sense brother. When I pull the throttle on the carb to WOT, the trans arm definitely goes all the way to the back as it should. That spring you mentioned before must have made the micro adjustment it all needed. But the juddering is the next thing to look at. And the choke adjustment, I think that's off too.

60% progress today (100% being correct starting/running/driving/shifting) So I am uber-grateful.
 
I am not sure what you’re describing with the juddering term. Can you help me with that. Is it jumping, running higher like neutral between shifts or something like that?? The original clunky linkage did the same thing which is to move that trans lever along with the throttle moving to control shifts.
 
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