My BUDGET 451 build... finally

[HT413]

5,000 + miles on mine now....... nothing but pure pleasure haha. I was hoping that when I saw this thread updated it meant you had it done!!!!! Oh well, winter is almost here now. Good luck

Woulda had it done but the house has been kicking my butt. House is about done - just have to finish installing oak treads and risers on the stairs and I will be DONE and ready to put this motor together. Can't wait!!

 

[HT413]

5,000 + miles on mine now....... nothing but pure pleasure haha. I was hoping that when I saw this thread updated it meant you had it done!!!!! Oh well, winter is almost here now. Good luck

5000 miles?! Damn that's great, bud. How's it treating ya? Would you have done anything different with the combo?

Well the converter came in! Frank had promised to build it anywhere from 3 days to 3 weeks from the day I ordered it (thought that was pretty funny). Well, here it is in my hands 11 days later. Gotta love it.

 

[HT413]

Here we are just over a year from my first post - and yesterday i finally sent the motor to my buddy for assembly. Pretty stoked.

 

[747mopar]

5000 miles?! Damn that's great, bud. How's it treating ya? Would you have done anything different with the combo?

Well the converter came in! Frank had promised to build it anywhere from 3 days to 3 weeks from the day I ordered it (thought that was pretty funny). Well, here it is in my hands 11 days later. Gotta love it.

You know how it goes..... always could have more power but I think I made the right choice on everything for my particular build. I'd love to put more cam in it but as it is it's happy even at the low cruising rpm's with the OD so I'll just leave it alone..... Possibly go to a roller cam at some point? Great news on the converter, always nice when people deliver on their word!!

Over 6,300 miles on the 456" now!!

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Here we are just over a year from my first post - and yesterday i finally sent the motor to my buddy for assembly. Pretty stoked.

That's awesome, hope to see a video of it running soon!

 

[rrTor-Red]

Not sure, I'm cheap and I have a LOT of patience for the right deal, so I might just see what pops up. Problem is the wrong converter is gonna kill my fun, so I might suck it up and call one of the custom shops.

HT413 motor sounds good. Myself, my engine guy went with a Lunati cam and I got a PCI converter. Many have suggested them and their customer service is very good. The converter is a 2,800 RPM stall. Not knocking anyone else by all means.

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My opinion?
Torque!

Flat out "Brutal and honest MOPAR tire shreding torque"
HP is for racing, higher RPM range is your horsepower range.

Driving around town with the kids and family for ice-cream and jumping on the "gas" throwing everyone back into the seats...and passing that 69 Camaro whose engine is built for horse Power...
That is torque!

Heck, I wanna throw people in the trunk!...lol

 

[747mopar]

Can't argue with that! I've done the high rpm horsepower route in the past and it's not that much fun in a cruiser so my present motor is more of a low to midrange build and I enjoy it far more.

 

[HT413]

Hey there fellas, a couple of updates...

In keeping with my budget build motif, I decided to go with a 440 source aluminum water pump housing (already had the Source aluminum pump, now it has a friend). Should arrive in a few days.

Also, I've been looking for some quality bolts and I think I found some. didn't want to go full ARP ($$$) but really didn't want the gold zinc grade 8 look (and forget my oem bolts). So I found some 12 point flange bolts that are "better than grade 8". The black 12 points should really pop against the orange motor and at way less than $1.00 per bolt for most of the bolts, undeniable VALUE. I bought a bunch extra for other projects, but I'd estimate bolts and washers add up to $50 or so for all the exterior bolts (water pump housing, intake, valve covers, timing cover, valley pan, distributor hold down, fuel pump, thermostat housing and headers plus misc ground points, etc.)

http://www.allensfasteners.com/search_results.asp?txtsearchParamCat=74

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Also picked up a firecore distributor. I planned on going with an MSD pro billet, but went with the firecore simply because of the vacuum advance. I'm surprised the MSD didn't have that option for the low deck.

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You know how it goes..... always could have more power but I think I made the right choice on everything for my particular build. I'd love to put more cam in it but as it is it's happy even at the low cruising rpm's with the OD so I'll just leave it alone..... Possibly go to a roller cam at some point?

I hear ya on that. One day I'll be in the market for an OD, that's gotta be sweet having all that low end torque and still cruising at 2000 rpm or lower. Me, with my 4.10's my cruise rpm is 3000 lol. But I'm building the car as I would have when I was a kid. I could see a gear change or even OD in the somewhat distant future.

 

[Burns69RT]

I went with the msd pro billet and 6al2 box. Heard they have a ready to run dizzy with vac advance. And from what I hear, you can run a 440 dizzy on a low deck but not vise versa

 

[rrTor-Red]

Thanks for sharing that web site. Keeping it for future things I might need.

 

[HT413]

Thanks for sharing that web site. Keeping it for future things I might need.

Yeah man, no problem. They sell the full line of ARP - cool thing is you can buy them individually and it looks like they're a better deal than even summit.

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I went with the msd pro billet and 6al2 box. Heard they have a ready to run dizzy with vac advance. And from what I hear, you can run a 440 dizzy on a low deck but not vise versa

Dude, you're gonna love that 6AL. My car runs phenomenally with it, plus the rev limiter is a major benefit.

 

[66Satellite47]

I went with the msd pro billet and 6al2 box. Heard they have a ready to run dizzy with vac advance. And from what I hear, you can run a 440 dizzy on a low deck but not vise versa

It's true, to use the 440 distributor on a low deck you have a spacer between the dist & the block. Works great.

 

[bm02tj]

Some grade 8 and better are not always the best choice as they expand at a different rate than cast iron
ARP keeps that in mind when they design bolts for specific things

 

[747mopar]

Hey there fellas, a couple of updates...

In keeping with my budget build motif, I decided to go with a 440 source aluminum water pump housing (already had the Source aluminum pump, now it has a friend). Should arrive in a few days.

Also, I've been looking for some quality bolts and I think I found some. didn't want to go full ARP ($$$) but really didn't want the gold zinc grade 8 look (and forget my oem bolts). So I found some 12 point flange bolts that are "better than grade 8". The black 12 points should really pop against the orange motor and at way less than $1.00 per bolt for most of the bolts, undeniable VALUE. I bought a bunch extra for other projects, but I'd estimate bolts and washers add up to $50 or so for all the exterior bolts (water pump housing, intake, valve covers, timing cover, valley pan, distributor hold down, fuel pump, thermostat housing and headers plus misc ground points, etc.)

http://www.allensfasteners.com/search_results.asp?txtsearchParamCat=74

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Also picked up a firecore distributor. I planned on going with an MSD pro billet, but went with the firecore simply because of the vacuum advance. I'm surprised the MSD didn't have that option for the low deck.

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I hear ya on that. One day I'll be in the market for an OD, that's gotta be sweet having all that low end torque and still cruising at 2000 rpm or lower. Me, with my 4.10's my cruise rpm is 3000 lol. But I'm building the car as I would have when I was a kid. I could see a gear change or even OD in the somewhat distant future.

Trust me an OD will be the best thing you could possibly do, I went from putting just over 2,000 miles a summer on it to putting nearly 4,000 miles on it this summer because it's so much more relaxing not hearing the motor screaming. I wish it were possible to take anybody contemplating OD for a ride because it would cement the decision pretty quickly haha. If you by chance make it to the Nats some year just give me a shout and I'll let you take it for a spin...... Don't know about MSD but my billet Mallory had a plastic bracket that held the advance plate in place that once removed allowed for a vacuum advance to bolt right on. I'm running the 6AL box right now and am not to impressed, not that it doesn't work well but I don't notice any benefit and am switching to a Pertronix just to eliminate the extra wiring and make it where all I have to carry for parts is a module (I don't think you can run them with aluminum heads though). I've been doing allot of talking to Don at FBO and his opinion is putting the 6AL systems on street cars that won't see anything over 7,000 is a waste and not necessary? Food for thought.

As much as I don't like Chinese parts I had problems finding a nice water pump for mine and bought the 440 source housing and pump, 6,000 miles so far and no problems so you should be good to go.

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In the future look up McMaster Karr for fasteners, I use them allot at work with no complaints. Most of my car is held together with purdy stainless hardware and cheaper than if I had bought regular fasteners plus they have allot of odds and ends like the C clip nuts for your fenders etc. Great savings in bulk!

 

[HT413]

Some grade 8 and better are not always the best choice as they expand at a different rate than cast iron
ARP keeps that in mind when they design bolts for specific things

Great point. I'm using arp main studs, rod bolts and head bolts, but I'm using cheaper bolts for the non-critical areas such as fastening an aluminum intake to aluminum heads. I think in those areas, even a grade 5 is overkill. It's more just to dress the motor up.

 

[Burns69RT]

Dude, you're gonna love that 6AL. My car runs phenomenally with it, plus the rev limiter is a major benefit.[/QUOTE]

Yeah man! I'm planning on hookup up the 2-step to my windshield washer button as it's a momentary button.

 

[HT413]

Yeah man! I'm planning on hookup up the 2-step to my windshield washer button as it's a momentary button.

Bro, I freakin love that idea.

 

[Burns69RT]

Right! And it's not like most of us use the washer button.

 

[HT413]

Won a little cash in fantasy football so I decided to go for a Cope reverse manual valve body with the rear band apply. Also picked up a k&n air cleaner top, mostly because i plan on running some old moroso blue anodized valve covers and there's just no way to match an air cleaner. Also went for an aluminum water pump housing, which I painted hemi orange.

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Right! And it's not like most of us use the washer button.

True. My washer pump works but I have no reservoir lol.

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Trust me an OD will be the best thing you could possibly do, I went from putting just over 2,000 miles a summer on it to putting nearly 4,000 miles on it this summer because it's so much more relaxing not hearing the motor screaming. I wish it were possible to take anybody contemplating OD for a ride because it would cement the decision pretty quickly haha. If you by chance make it to the Nats some year just give me a shout and I'll let you take it for a spin...... Don't know about MSD but my billet Mallory had a plastic bracket that held the advance plate in place that once removed allowed for a vacuum advance to bolt right on. I'm running the 6AL box right now and am not to impressed, not that it doesn't work well but I don't notice any benefit and am switching to a Pertronix just to eliminate the extra wiring and make it where all I have to carry for parts is a module (I don't think you can run them with aluminum heads though). I've been doing allot of talking to Don at FBO and his opinion is putting the 6AL systems on street cars that won't see anything over 7,000 is a waste and not necessary? Food for thought.

I'd definitely take you up on the offer for a ride, unfortunately the Nats aren't in the cards for me. Carlisle, on the other hand, I hope to make. I agree - the OD would transform the car for me - right now I refuse to take it to Carlisle, which is almost 3 hours, and my parents beach house which is 2 hours. An OD changes the equation entirely.

I'm sure you're right about the 6AL not being necessary, but it sure is nice. I'm sure the different mopar boxes and the RTR pieces like pertronix are sweet as well.

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In the future look up McMaster Karr for fasteners, I use them allot at work with no complaints. Most of my car is held together with purdy stainless hardware and cheaper than if I had bought regular fasteners plus they have allot of odds and ends like the C clip nuts for your fenders etc. Great savings in bulk!

Huh, I never thought of looking at them. Funny, I've used them extensively to rebuild the shop equipment at work but it never clicked to use them for the motor.

 

[69 GTX]

You can also run your 2 step though a second brake light switch, with a toggle switch to make it hot.

 

[HT413]

You can also run your 2 step though a second brake light switch, with a toggle switch to make it hot.

That's interesting, how would it work?