nice, congrats. still working on mine. It's my #2. gonna use it for a fab shop for the dirty work. spray foam for insulation is the chit. BTW. seals all the draft. it's 1.50 a sq. ft. for 1" thick here in michigan.
My dream garage build
- Thread starter cwilson
- Start date
Planning on faced, roll insulation. Of the different types of insulation we’ve entertained thus far, that seems to be most appealing cost-wise and I can do it myself. Also, most of my wiring is done and I don’t want it buried with spray foam. Been a slow go since the structure was built no doubt. My wife encourages me to hire the remainder out. One of the few things I push back about. I’ve enjoyed doing most of the work myself and would like to have my hands in it until completion.
cwilson
Active Member
I hear that! I priced spray foam a year ago and it was between 14 and 17k. I've got less than a grand in r19 in the walls with some marketplace finds. After drywalling over 2000 sqft I'm really starting to get burned out but only a few hundred more to go
i got this done for $ 7200 and will seal better than you can ever get batt insulation, I've been in construction for 35 years and have seen it. if your paying to heat your shop it will pay for itself, I didn't do my own house cause it was crazy expensive then, regretted it ever since this is about 5000 sq. ft of surface area. but I understand these buildings add up and money savings are essential, i was just throwing it out there. good luck
cwilson
Active Member
Insulation is definitely a pretty hot topic for sure! After 10 years in designing and building commercial and Healthcare facilities even the energy conservation certification companies can't agree on what's best. I'm also banking on my heating control system to add a little extra efficiency but have a buddy across town with a pretty basic system and batt with relatively low winter heating costs
I will be creating dead air space when I install osb on the walls, and drywall on the ceiling, the osb will be sealed together when installed. With my application with the iron building and the metal framing it creates about 12" of dead air space, which is free insulation on top of the foam.
So much for trying to convince you to come help
At that price I'd reconsider personally
Agree
You got (10) years on me lol
cwilson
Active Member
So much for trying to convince you to come help
Well I did buy one of those electric drywall sanders with the 9" da head and long handled skimming knives which made the finishing go much quicker. I also bought a new rolling work stool so for a fellow Mopar guy, I'll bring em over and sit on the stool drinking beer for moral support while you get at er!
I'm dreading the finishing and the dust control. The shop is occupied and it'd be nice to somehow work around the cars being in there. I don't want to face reality here lol. Cross that bridge when I get to it.
ckessel
Well-Known Member
For those with the 4 post lifts and rolling jacks, or those wanting said units, here is something to add on. For mine I wanted some crossbeams to support the cars when under as sometimes you want all four wheels off of the ramps. For one pair of beams, I got ahold of some remnant 4X6 .187 wall rectangle and notched the ends so they would fit sown onto the jack runways and support the car. On top of those you add your cribbing. Also some of the remnant parralam's that were used in construction of the garage get used for that too.
cwilson
Active Member
I starting to move stuff in as well when I started finishing and now completely moved in so dust control is a challenge. I bought one of those electric drywall sanders for about $125 and it works awesome. Big pack of sanding discs were also cheap and cheap made so they load up a little quick so i just change them often. I durock'd the seams first and even that sanded fairly quickly. The lighted head really shows up imperfections, it extends so I can reach up the 14' walls with just a step stool and the dust bag works great. I had to tape mine on a little better so the hose wouldn't pop off and make sure I take the bag outside and down wind before emptying it. I get a light coat of dust on stuff in the immediate area so just starting tossing some tarps over stuff.
cwilson
Active Member
That's a great idea! Will definitely remember that one!
Fury Fan
Active Member
Related to that:
When I built my 24x30 detached garage, I located the 16ft overhead door about 18" from the LH wall, and the service door was around the RH side, on the side wall.
The builder asked why (he was going to center the overhead door, of course).
I told him the car on the left would get pulled in, and the 18" gave just enough to open the door and get in/out of the car (and allow shelving along the rest of the wall).
The car on the RH side would get backed in, and the 5-ish feet there would allow for a deep workbench + ample walking/doorswing area there.
And the service door on the side wall was simply because I didn't want it on the front.
All of that came about from doing a lot of Autocad layout beforehand. I think I was the first guy he'd met that had planned ahead like that.
Looking back, there are some things I would've done differently, but I made no noteworthy errors.
cwilson
Active Member
I spent quite a bit of time with Autocad and graph paper laying out all my vehicles, future lift, toolboxes, heated floor and all that so that's overall spot on. Minor changes would have made finishing the interior a little easier and reduced cutting down sheet goods for the walls. Finishing in tin it wouldn't have been noticeable but I should have built a 37x65 to account for the post dimensions. I'll just know better when I build my second one
Darter6
Well-Known Member
This I like. I bought my shop in a industrial park that was 4 walls a floor and roof. 40x40.
Had a loft installed and just used a ladder to access it. After 20+ years I finally had stairs installed.Made it tight in the lift area.
Now I have to move everything, parts washer,work bench,tool boxes and storage racks because of 4' wide stair case threw off the hole shabang.
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