I was just watching some of your videos on Facebook. Thanks for the offer but, I have a donor already.
My GY8 '71 Road Runner
- Thread starter ct71rr
- Start date
I was just watching some of your videos on Facebook. Thanks for the offer but, I have a donor already.
Progress; I removed the frame rail. It fought me the entire way. It was not fun.
As you can see in the pic below, the old rail hung down approximately 1/2” lower than the right side rail. This was primarily at where you see the crease. The front part, where they attach to the floor pans, were level to each other.
And of course I found a nest in this rail too
:
I then test-fitted the donor rail. It pretty much slid right into position. All of the spotwelds I drilled out on my car line up with the spotwelds on the donor rail too.
And make the noise:
Now my rails are level to each other! Next I have to prep everything before spraying with epoxy and welding in.
As you can see in the pic below, the old rail hung down approximately 1/2” lower than the right side rail. This was primarily at where you see the crease. The front part, where they attach to the floor pans, were level to each other.
And of course I found a nest in this rail too
:I then test-fitted the donor rail. It pretty much slid right into position. All of the spotwelds I drilled out on my car line up with the spotwelds on the donor rail too.
And make the noise:
Now my rails are level to each other! Next I have to prep everything before spraying with epoxy and welding in.
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71airgrabberRR
Well-Known Member
Hello Chad.
It’s been a long time since I have stopped by and logged into the FBBO website. I’m liking what I see here. Looks like you’re doing it the right way and you have built a frame rail jig.
I built one up about 3 years ago. Mine can be used for 70-74 E body cars and then if I swap out the stands, I can build 68-70 B body cars now.
My friend Todd has the frame jig at his body shop and so far it’s been working out fantastic. He’s been able to properly restore 5 more Mopars that no one else would touch because they couldn’t make a straight framed car.
It’s so nice to have comfort in knowing that the work you’re doing is spot on and that when you’re done the doors will close, the windows will fit and most importantly the car will align properly on the rack when it’s done.
Keep up with the good job. I’ll try to keep logging in and not be a stranger.
Looks good buddy !!!
PS: I sent you a PM.
It’s been a long time since I have stopped by and logged into the FBBO website. I’m liking what I see here. Looks like you’re doing it the right way and you have built a frame rail jig.
I built one up about 3 years ago. Mine can be used for 70-74 E body cars and then if I swap out the stands, I can build 68-70 B body cars now.
My friend Todd has the frame jig at his body shop and so far it’s been working out fantastic. He’s been able to properly restore 5 more Mopars that no one else would touch because they couldn’t make a straight framed car.
It’s so nice to have comfort in knowing that the work you’re doing is spot on and that when you’re done the doors will close, the windows will fit and most importantly the car will align properly on the rack when it’s done.
Keep up with the good job. I’ll try to keep logging in and not be a stranger.
Looks good buddy !!!
PS: I sent you a PM.
Hi Louis!! Great to hear from you! The frame jig has been indispensable in this. It has definitely helped with keeping everything in line. The donor frame rails pretty much dropped right in to place.
I meant to add this to my previous post; I’ve read a bunch of horror stories on forums about cutoff wheels exploding into flesh ripping shrapnel and the injuries this has caused. While removing my trunk pan, this very thing happened to me. Thankfully, I was wearing my full face shield which, I always wear when grinding. Two pieces of the cutoff wheel smashed into my shield. It happened so fast that I didn’t really have time to react. It would have been another trip to the hospital if I didn’t have the shield on.
Today I started blasting the right rear frame rail and surrounding parts in preparation for epoxy before I put the new trunk pan in. I put up an enclosure around my car to contain as much of the mess as possible. It worked pretty well. This is after a few passes. I need to pick up some more glass bead. I’ve already recycled what I have 4 times. It’s getting pretty weak.
Enclosure:
After a few passes:
I still need to touch up a bunch of areas. The last time I used my blaster I was having issues with it getting clogged. There was a lot of moisture in the air line from my compressor working hard. This turned the glass bead into basically mud. After reading Builderguy’s thread and how used a wort chiller to remove moisture from his air lines, I gave it a try. I used 3/8” refrigerator line, some compression fittings and an old cooler that I have no clue where it came from. It worked perfectly. Not a drop of moisture in the blaster. It never clogged once in the 4 hours I used it.
Here’s what I bought:
I added 2 pieces of pvc trim to help keep the coils separated:
I filled the cooler with a bunch of snow, which we have plenty of, and water. It’s not the prettiest thing in the world but it works!
Enclosure:
After a few passes:
I still need to touch up a bunch of areas. The last time I used my blaster I was having issues with it getting clogged. There was a lot of moisture in the air line from my compressor working hard. This turned the glass bead into basically mud. After reading Builderguy’s thread and how used a wort chiller to remove moisture from his air lines, I gave it a try. I used 3/8” refrigerator line, some compression fittings and an old cooler that I have no clue where it came from. It worked perfectly. Not a drop of moisture in the blaster. It never clogged once in the 4 hours I used it.
Here’s what I bought:
I added 2 pieces of pvc trim to help keep the coils separated:
I filled the cooler with a bunch of snow, which we have plenty of, and water. It’s not the prettiest thing in the world but it works!
Hi all, I was able to get the left rear frame rail welded in. I also repaired some of the damage to the rear panel I caused removing the original rail. After blasting, I got the inside of the right rear frame rail in epoxy. Like stated above, the donor rail slid right into place without much of a fuss. Many of the spotwelds I drilled out line up with those on the donor rail. Not bad!
Damage to rear panel:
After checking all the measurements with factory specs and using my homemade tram gauge, I welded the rail in:
And it’s still level! Make the noise:
I still need to plug weld the rear seat pan to the donor rail and patch a few small areas of rot in the pan, as well. It was a tedious job and I’m glad it’s behind me.
Damage to rear panel:
After checking all the measurements with factory specs and using my homemade tram gauge, I welded the rail in:
And it’s still level! Make the noise:
I still need to plug weld the rear seat pan to the donor rail and patch a few small areas of rot in the pan, as well. It was a tedious job and I’m glad it’s behind me.
When I purchased my car, I knew it needed the quarters to be replaced. I purchased AMD full quarters about 10 years ago. Today, I finished removing the passenger’s quarter. It was a massive pain in the ***. It appears that a PO used a ‘72 quarter, judging from the hacked-in side marker light. This quarter was put in with a lap joint and a ****-ton of bondo. They also used several different types of screws, brass brazing and lots of bondo.
I also knew the outer rocker behind the bottom of the quarter was toast and parts of the lower outer wheel well, as well. I purchased an outer wheel well from AMD years ago and a pair of outer rockers from god knows where.
Side marker hack-in:
Lap joint:
Detail of inside side marker light, pro install:
Toasted bits:
And for some reason, they hacked out a section of the wall below the quarter window:
I also knew the outer rocker behind the bottom of the quarter was toast and parts of the lower outer wheel well, as well. I purchased an outer wheel well from AMD years ago and a pair of outer rockers from god knows where.
Side marker hack-in:
Lap joint:
Detail of inside side marker light, pro install:
Toasted bits:
And for some reason, they hacked out a section of the wall below the quarter window:
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I purchased a replacement piece for under the quarter window several years ago. The seller did an excellent job packing it!:
I found this inside. I couldn’t figure out what these two screws were for. Then it dawned on me. Someone butchered the window track:
I also found out that the AMD quarters do not have the pins that hold the window trim on. I have them labeled as “tabs” in the pic:
Next, I’m going to remove the outer wheel well. That should be fun.
Thanks for looking!
I found this inside. I couldn’t figure out what these two screws were for. Then it dawned on me. Someone butchered the window track:
I also found out that the AMD quarters do not have the pins that hold the window trim on. I have them labeled as “tabs” in the pic:
Next, I’m going to remove the outer wheel well. That should be fun.
Thanks for looking!
And, I always heard never use a lap joint because rust will develop. It did.
This was the lap joint at the quarter window area:
This was the lap that ran across the quarter:
You can also see in the above image how they used bondo-filled holes instead of plugwelds. Awesome!!
This was the lap joint at the quarter window area:
This was the lap that ran across the quarter:
You can also see in the above image how they used bondo-filled holes instead of plugwelds. Awesome!!
Grabbergreendream
Well-Known Member
I have a window track for that quarter window frame if you need it. Just pay postage its yours...
Good work so far.
P.S....those rockers are some of the worst I've ever seen! Keep going, looking good!
Good work so far.
P.S....those rockers are some of the worst I've ever seen! Keep going, looking good!
I got the driver’s side quarter off today. More bondo, pop rivets, brass brazing, wood and metal screws. The bottom part of this quarter was a bunch of patches pop riveted on. Pop rivets were covered in bondo. Looks like I’ll have to replace this outer wheel well too. The outer rocker is not nearly as bad on this side.
Rivets and bondo:
Bondo covered rivets:
More rivets:
A little bit of bondo:
Quarter off:
Not as bad as the other side:
Next I’ll tackle removing the outer wheel wells. Yea!!
Rivets and bondo:
Bondo covered rivets:
More rivets:
A little bit of bondo:
Quarter off:
Not as bad as the other side:
Next I’ll tackle removing the outer wheel wells. Yea!!
Runcharger
Well-Known Member
Well: This car will certainly be a ton better when you're done with it.
Well, I got the outer wheelhouse on the passenger’s side off. Not a fun job! I mocked in the AMD replacement which fits pretty good. I’m probably not going to get much more done this weekend due to Easter and daughter’s hockey practice.
71Beeper
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Awesome work CT!
It'll be better than new when done....
It'll be better than new when done....
Thank you! With all the replacement parts, it’s pretty much going to be new 
More progress; I started fixing the rot in the rockers on the passenger’s side. I started with cutting out all of the rot and then made a patch for the inner rocker:
Patch roughed in on inner rocker:
After getting this patch in, I started my attempt at making a patch for the rotted section of the outer rocker. This section is not reproduced but, I did purchase a pair of outer rockers several years ago. I believe the are Sherman parts. They are not perfect but close to looking like the section of rocker under the doors. The section that is behind the quarter is much different. About 4 inches from the edge of the door opening (at rear of door) it jogs in about 1/4” to allow for the bottom edge of the quarter panel to be leaded in flush with the part of the rocker that runs under the door. Then, about another 8” towards the rear, it jogs in again about 1/4”. Also, the top part of this area of the rocker has a different profile than the rest of the rocker. I used a section of the rocker patch panel and rebent the angles with my vise break to match the driver’s side as the passenger’s side was rotted away. I then used my air hammer and a 2X4 to bend the panel down the 1/4”. I had to section the piece to make the second jog. It was way beyond my skill and tool level to make it in one piece. It’s not the prettiest piece in the world but I believe it turned out ok. I still need to weld it together and add a few filler pieces.
Thankfully, this piece will never be seen once the quarter is welded over it. I then sprayed the inner rocker with epoxy:
After getting this patch in, I’m going to have to figure out how to make a patch for the top corner of the outer rocker. It has a raised section to accommodate a bolt:
I’m hoping to get this buttoned up this week. Thanks for looking!
Patch roughed in on inner rocker:
After getting this patch in, I started my attempt at making a patch for the rotted section of the outer rocker. This section is not reproduced but, I did purchase a pair of outer rockers several years ago. I believe the are Sherman parts. They are not perfect but close to looking like the section of rocker under the doors. The section that is behind the quarter is much different. About 4 inches from the edge of the door opening (at rear of door) it jogs in about 1/4” to allow for the bottom edge of the quarter panel to be leaded in flush with the part of the rocker that runs under the door. Then, about another 8” towards the rear, it jogs in again about 1/4”. Also, the top part of this area of the rocker has a different profile than the rest of the rocker. I used a section of the rocker patch panel and rebent the angles with my vise break to match the driver’s side as the passenger’s side was rotted away. I then used my air hammer and a 2X4 to bend the panel down the 1/4”. I had to section the piece to make the second jog. It was way beyond my skill and tool level to make it in one piece. It’s not the prettiest piece in the world but I believe it turned out ok. I still need to weld it together and add a few filler pieces.
Thankfully, this piece will never be seen once the quarter is welded over it. I then sprayed the inner rocker with epoxy:
After getting this patch in, I’m going to have to figure out how to make a patch for the top corner of the outer rocker. It has a raised section to accommodate a bolt:
I’m hoping to get this buttoned up this week. Thanks for looking!
Progress; I got the outer rocker patch I made welded in and sprayed with some primer for now. I also patched the top of the outer rocker where there is a raised area to accommodate a bolt that passes through the inner rocker. I think its one of the bolts for the leaf spring mounts.
Like I said before, my patch isn’t exactly the prettiest, you can see some hammer marks, but it will never be seen once the quarter is installed. It’s not 100% but it’s 100% better than what was there.
And this is the raised area. I used the end of the wooden handle on my squeegee to form the hump:
Like I said before, my patch isn’t exactly the prettiest, you can see some hammer marks, but it will never be seen once the quarter is installed. It’s not 100% but it’s 100% better than what was there.
And this is the raised area. I used the end of the wooden handle on my squeegee to form the hump:
More progress. This weekend I worked on the panel under the right side rear window. Sometime along my car’s life, a PO cut out a large section of this panel. Originally I was going to patch-in this area with a piece from a donor panel I purchased many years ago. I decided to go ahead and remove and replace it in one piece instead. After sandblasting the donor panel, I sprayed it with some rattle can epoxy and welded it in.
Original with section cut out:
Donor:
Before sandblasting (glass bead):
After:
I had to add the bottom section to the donor, it did not have it:
Test fit:
Welded in:
My ChiCom Freight sand blaster has been working pretty good for me so far. I’ve been using glass bead primarily. I’ve read that glass bead can not be recycled/used again but, this was the 4th time I recycled it and had no problem taking off the rust and globs of seam sealer.
Original with section cut out:
Donor:
Before sandblasting (glass bead):
After:
I had to add the bottom section to the donor, it did not have it:
Test fit:
Welded in:
My ChiCom Freight sand blaster has been working pretty good for me so far. I’ve been using glass bead primarily. I’ve read that glass bead can not be recycled/used again but, this was the 4th time I recycled it and had no problem taking off the rust and globs of seam sealer.
Great work as always! I run the Harbor Freight glass beads in my cabinet and I will get 6 months out of it with regular use. I like the glass as it allows me to do softer materials without damage.
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