My overheating senario….
- Thread starter koosh
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I'm kind of confused as to how going from a 16oz to a 24 oz overflow can could possibly make the car run 55 degrees cooler. I use those small diameter aftermarket overflow cans on my cars that I believe the op has. All they really do is stop the annoying dribbling out the overflow tube if to much coolant is put in the system.
It won't help the overheating.
Exactly. I must be reading post 35 incorrectly.
Yep. The older cars had no overflow and didn't puke coolant after driving unless there was an issue. A sudden loss of pressure from a leak or bad cap can cause this. I have seen it dozens of times.
YY1
Well-Known Member
It didn't stop any overheating.....well technically...
It did stop the system from losing a few ounces of coolant from the overflow jar every time it was driven, which in turn led to an eventual reduction in the level in the radiator, which then caused an overheating condition.
Increasing the size of the overflow container kept all the coolant that was purged out of the radiator when hot, in the system, and cycled back into the radiator when shut off.
Agree, those chrome tubes are "catch cans" and not really "closed system recovery containers".
It did stop the system from losing a few ounces of coolant from the overflow jar every time it was driven, which in turn led to an eventual reduction in the level in the radiator, which then caused an overheating condition.
Increasing the size of the overflow container kept all the coolant that was purged out of the radiator when hot, in the system, and cycled back into the radiator when shut off.
Agree, those chrome tubes are "catch cans" and not really "closed system recovery containers".
diesel_lv
Well-Known Member
A quick word on recovery tanks. The open system recovery tank was put on "in-case" a car puked, to keep it off the streets. The closed system was to keep a higher pressure, higher boiling point, this caused more fluid expansion and it needed someplace to go, then needed to get returned to radiator as it cooled. If the system is good, and you fill to 1" under the bottom of opening, you don't "need" an overflow tank "if" your system is good. Too many pull cap off, see fluid below opening, fill full, then it pukes n repeat. I'm in 125° summers, 50/50 mix, 180 t-stat and no catch can. Has not puked once. I do not fill completely, use a ruler and actually fill about 1.25" below the bottom of the opening. Does not overheat, even idling for 20 minutes, waiting on an accident, w a/c on. So.... if it pukes and then you top it back off, it's gonna puke again. Expanding water needs someplace to go.
Frank Mopar
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A closed system keeps all the air out off the radiator and engine. No air no rust.
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Except for the air that is dissolved in the coolant (or water) and when combined with the dissolved carbon dioxide (CO2) in the water forming Carbonic Acid, which WILL corroded (as rust or iron oxide) the iron block (or aluminum as aluminum oxide) and radiator components......a closed system will not totally eliminate rust....but definitely helps......just my opinion.....
BOB RENTON
R413
Well-Known Member
A closed system with no air is hard on the radiator, heater core, hoses, etc. No air means no cushion from air and the expansion with heat. The coolant doesn't compress, the air does.
Why do you think many late model cars have aluminum radiators leak at the tanks just after the warranty period. LOL
Why do you think many late model cars have aluminum radiators leak at the tanks just after the warranty period. LOL
BSB67
Well-Known Member
I think some have made the OP more confused.
OP - your car did not come with a recovery tank, or an overflow tank. If your engine and cooling system are functioning correctly, you don’t need them.
If you want to add an overflow tank, no big deal. Won’t fix your coolant boiling problem.
You can add a recovery tank, but need to add the correct components to work with it too. Still won’t fix your coolant boiling problem.
I recommend fixing your problem.
OP - your car did not come with a recovery tank, or an overflow tank. If your engine and cooling system are functioning correctly, you don’t need them.
If you want to add an overflow tank, no big deal. Won’t fix your coolant boiling problem.
You can add a recovery tank, but need to add the correct components to work with it too. Still won’t fix your coolant boiling problem.
I recommend fixing your problem.
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Here's an example from just a few years ago. Perfectly working factory cooling system on a modified big block. Stupid owner puts a chinese engine mount in place of his personally-made solid mount, and forgets to attach the engine chain. Not long afterward, said crap mount lets go and fan impales radiator. Stupid owner replaces with champion radiator. Now, all of a sudden has overheating problems... only due to the radiator. Smart owner replaces with a wizard radiator, which fits perfectly. Smart owner no longer has overheating problem. ( Owner = me )
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koosh
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Ok. Factory shroud installed. Coolant level at least inch below fill hole. New 16lb rad cap installed….I don’t have time to run motor up to temp today, but will in the morning.
For giggles, i did squeeze the lower hose approximately in the middle, no trouble squeezing it completely together.. not sure if that’s good.
BUT—- when i squeeze that hose, air escapes out the new rad cap???
For giggles, i did squeeze the lower hose approximately in the middle, no trouble squeezing it completely together.. not sure if that’s good.
BUT—- when i squeeze that hose, air escapes out the new rad cap???
Good thing you did. There should a spring in the lower hose to prevent it from collapsing.
Might have stumbled on part of your problem
koosh
Well-Known Member
I did not feel any spring, i guess i need to find lower hose with spring
Where have you tried. I just googled it and got a whole page full of them.
I just did a pump on a 12 hemi ram and it had one..
koosh
Well-Known Member
I must be googling the wrong thing then L O L when I googled it one came up on Amazon for GM car
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