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My overheating senario….

No,it's not normal. Either your cap is junk or not installed correctly.
Brand new cap….. i thought since after 60+ years being around cars id know how to put a rad cap on….maybe not! LOL
 
Ok guys, this morning ran up to temp while idling with shroud on, gage said just under 200. Left cap off to help any pockets to escape. Put cap back on while still idling, temp is down now to about 190!
I’m including a video of the radiator top with no cap while idling, then accelerating the motor to which coolant flow…. Looks to me like it’s minimal?
Thoughts?
Im going now for short cruise to see if it spews upon return and motor is off
LOOKS LIKE I CANNOT LOAD VIDEO?
but coolant moved very little when accelerating motor
 
Update: took for cruise, temp never above 190-195… return home and let idle for 15 minutes. Temp the same. Put cardboard in front of radiator to raise temp, when up to 220….and a dribble out the radiator cap.(see pic)
IMG_5602.jpeg
Removed cardboard, temp back down to 200.
Shut motor off, NO SPEWING!!!!!
I don’t get it..
 
Kinda sounds like your air pocket is gone. Throw the cardboard away and quit worrying.
 
Kinda sounds like your air pocket is gone. Throw the cardboard away and quit worrying.
Nope….. after a couple hours cooling off, jumped back in the car and took it for another ride…about 3 miles down the road temp went straight up past 210. I immediately stopped and turned it around anticipating breaking down on the road…. As soon as i stopped, turned around—- temp started coming down…. Gota feeling theres more air pockets and the jolt from stopping and turning around moved the coolant around a bit?
 
Looks like tomorrow another day of “burping” the coolant system
 
Never had a problem myself after 1burp. Maybe start over with front end raised up? No need for cardboard, have full heat temperature activated on htr.control.
 
Never had a problem myself after 1burp. Maybe start over with front end raised up? No need for cardboard, have full heat temperature activated on htr.control.
Sounds good
 
Looks like tomorrow another day of “burping” the coolant system
Pic does not look like a COOLANT RECOVERY SYSTEM PRESSURE CAP......is it? Whose brand name is it??.....quit worring about the minutia or inconsequential stuff.....210° F IS NOT HOT.....as stated b4 with a 50/50 mix of coolant and 16 psi pressure cap (either type), the temperature will need to exceed 265° F to become hot......just run it as is......
BOB RENTON
 
Pic does not look like a COOLANT RECOVERY SYSTEM PRESSURE CAP......is it? Whose brand name is it??.....quit worring about the minutia or inconsequential stuff.....210° F IS NOT HOT.....as stated b4 with a 50/50 mix of coolant and 16 psi pressure cap (either type), the temperature will need to exceed 265° F to become hot......just run it as is......
BOB RENTON
First, there’s no name on the cap, its the one that came on the car. The new one i bought at Oreillys, didn’t fit as tight.
Second, i have no idea what a “ coolant recovery coolant cap” is. The car had no recovery bottle on it when i bought it, just a drain hose from below the cap. I decided to reduce the coolant spewing all over the ground, to install a catch can which that hose now goes into.
I don’t feel spewing coolant is inconsequential, so i guess I’ll worry until this issue is resolved. Together with all the help i get here, im sure I’ll get it done.
 
A coolant recovery cap will have 2 gaskets, 1 at normal spot at lower lip and another to seal at upper lip of fill port.
 
I had drained my rad one time. Refilled it and had an overheating issue. Loosened off one of the heater hoses at the firewall to bleed it. Might have been the inlet side of the heater. Waited until coolant came out, and tightened the clamp. Did have the heater controls set so coolant could circulate. This was over 25 years ago. Everything worked fine.
 
A coolant recovery cap will have 2 gaskets, 1 at normal spot at lower lip and another to seal at upper lip of fill port.
This is what came on the car when i bought it…
IMG_5618.jpeg
IMG_5617.jpeg
 
Ok…. Bought this kit, arrived last night. Installed this morning, ran car up to temp. -and for
IMG_5622.jpeg
about 15-20 minutes.
LOTSA BUBBLES. Once bubbles stopped, removed kit, then removed small amount of coolant from radiator to make level about 1” from fill neck…. Fingers crossed!
 
Low speed or idle overheating = poor airflow

You need a shroud, a clutch fan, the hood to radiator support seal, and the hood to cowl seal in place. You need to funnel air through the radiator with a conical shaped shroud with clutch fan that is at least 1/2 way into the shroud. The idea is to create a vacuum in front of the radiator, trap the air by not allowing it to go around the vacuum by having the hood to radiator seal in place, and control the vacuum in the engine bay with the hood to cowl seal. You want to draw as much air through there as you can, especially at idle.

I never got that idea that a lower temp thermostat will keep a car running cooler, it just opens sooner. Without the proper airflow, it doesn’t matter what temp it opens at if there’s not enough air flowing through the radiator to help cool the fluid. I agree with the radiator cap leak theory tho, if it is in fact actually leaking.
 
Low speed or idle overheating = poor airflow

You need a shroud, a clutch fan, the hood to radiator support seal, and the hood to cowl seal in place. You need to funnel air through the radiator with a conical shaped shroud with clutch fan that is at least 1/2 way into the shroud. The idea is to create a vacuum in front of the radiator, trap the air by not allowing it to go around the vacuum by having the hood to radiator seal in place, and control the vacuum in the engine bay with the hood to cowl seal. You want to draw as much air through there as you can, especially at idle.

I never got that idea that a lower temp thermostat will keep a car running cooler, it just opens sooner. Without the proper airflow, it doesn’t matter what temp it opens at if there’s not enough air flowing through the radiator to help cool the fluid. I agree with the radiator cap leak theory tho, if it is in fact actually leaking.
If you've ever studied thermodynamics (likely not) it's more than air flow thru the secondary heat exchange (radiator) it's a function of total fluid flow, in terms of gallons per minute at a specified velocity and pressure AND the specific heat of the coolant combined with air flow, but not solely on air flow as you suggest. Ambient air temperature also enters in the calculations along with surface area of the heat exchange (radiator).....remember: Q(total heat exchanged) = M(mass flow) x Cp (specific heat of both air and the coolant) x Delta T (temperature differences between the two media) not just air flow.....
BOB RENTON
 
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Does it still have that 6 blade fan?

What is the fans diameter compared to the shroud opening diameter?

What is the position of the fan in and out compared to the opening hole. Should be 1/2 in 1/2 out. Or close.

Next, does your hood have a front and/or rear seal?

Next, that radiator cap is a question. Replace with Stant with lever.
 
Does it still have that 6 blade fan?

What is the fans diameter compared to the shroud opening diameter?

What is the position of the fan in and out compared to the opening hole. Should be 1/2 in 1/2 out. Or close.

Next, does your hood have a front and/or rear seal?

Next, that radiator cap is a question. Replace with Stant with lever.
Fan diameter is 19.5”, opening of shroud is 20”…. Radiator cap is new. There are no seals on an A12 lift off hood. So far, after”burping “ the air out of the radiator, no issues
 
Update;
Since reducing the air in the coolant system, correct coolant level, new rad cap…. No overheating issues!!!!
I want to thank EVERYONE for all advice and suggestions!!!!!
 
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