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New adjustable Restrictor Plate for Bracket Racing

Mike Gaines

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Location
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I just received my new Adjustable Restrictor Plate. I have a good friend that has been running this same product on his ThunderBolt all year.His car will run 9.90 wide open but that is NOT fast enuf for what is termed "C-Gas" here in California which is 9.60 heads up racing....so he slows it down to 10.60, which is "D-Gas". By using the dial indicator as the measuring device he turns the hexes on the end of the plate with a 1/2" socket which in turns moves the "slides" horizontally to close off the openings to the intake manifold. The carb still runs wide open but the air/fuel mixture is cut back and therefore reduces the horsepower and slows the car down. He has his setup dialed in almost perfectly and with the use of his restrictor plate adjusment and tire pressure he runs between 10.60 and 10.65 about every run.
I am going to use mine to cut the horsepower back so I can "save" my 8 3/4 rear end until I can get the money for a DANA. If my car will run 10.60 or 10.70 wide open then I will use the restrictor plate to cut the air/fuel to reduce the horsepower and dial into "E-Gas" which is 11.60 heads up racing. I can then also set the plate adjustment to run, let's s plate open.jpgplate part closed.jpgay 11.20/11.30 or whatever and run just straight bracket racing....all in an effort to not take a chance of blowing out my 8 3/4.
I will make a few wide open passes, of course, just to see if I can get into the 10.60/10.70 range.

plate open.jpg plate part closed.jpg
 
Wouldn't an adjustable mechanical throttle stop work just as well?
 
Nice units . I like these or the plate system over a throttle stop as you still use full throttle so you get correct airflow through boosters etc .

Tex
 
I like this setup. I may give one a try.
 
I just do not get this type of racing! Its like competing in weight lifting with someone capibale of lifting 600 lbs. who will only compeat in the 200 lb. class it garentee a win every time. Just where is the sport in it?
 
I just do not get this type of racing! Its like competing in weight lifting with someone capibale of lifting 600 lbs. who will only compeat in the 200 lb. class it garentee a win every time. Just where is the sport in it?
Mr Mopar 3 B,
It is tougher than you think. My pal Chris won "D-Gas" (which is 10.60 heads up racing) at ANRA today in Famosa CA.
His car will run 9.90 but that is NOT fast enuf for C-Gas which is 9.60's heads up racing, so what's he to do....install the adjustable restrictgor plate and run in the 10.60 class heads up racing.
He still has to set the tire air pressure just right, dial the restrictor plate just right as the air density changes during the day to run exactly 10.60 every single run....he ran 10.602, 10.61, 10.63, 10.609 and 10.601 in the final to win....and that aint easy. His car still had to run perfect, he had to set the tire air pressure different for every run as the track changed during the day and he still has to cut an almost perfect lite for 5 runs to WIN...and that aint easy.
 
I just do not get this type of racing! Its like competing in weight lifting with someone capibale of lifting 600 lbs. who will only compeat in the 200 lb. class it garentee a win every time. Just where is the sport in it?
Give it try and see how easy it is. Your dial is the same all weekend. Weather changes, track changes then you have to change your tune up. Personally I run a bolt that stops the carb from opening all the way. A typical N/SS qualification will put the top 3-5 racers dead on the index. More than .02 or so off the index during eliminations you won't go far.
Doug
 
Give it try and see how easy it is. Your dial is the same all weekend. Weather changes, track changes then you have to change your tune up. Personally I run a bolt that stops the carb from opening all the way. A typical N/SS qualification will put the top 3-5 racers dead on the index. More than .02 or so off the index during eliminations you won't go far.
Doug


This was exactly my original point. I do not go the the drags to watch nor compete with continual profection it has come a point were just to much of the human factor has been eliminated. What's next climate controlled race tracks and total computer control to eliminate the rest?
 
Well then I respectfully suggest that we eliminate all separate classes altogther...everyone one runs flat out in ONE Class and then I guess someone in a TOP FUEL DRAGSTER would win every race.
I think even NHRA has Super Stock "classes" with ET Records and if you go faster than the record you "break out"...and when you race someone in a lower class that person gets a "headstart" and if that person goes too fast they break out also and lose..In the "old days" ( I dont know if this still exist) you could only go faster than your respective National Record on the Final Run and then if you went faster than the National Record then your ET on that very run became the NEW National Record and then you had to run against that ET on future races...
PS: If I keep typing I will even confuse myself....lol...fact is, it is not really important one way or the other. Just strap yourself in and see how fast your car will go...that is what is important.

- - - Updated - - -

Nice units . I like these or the plate system over a throttle stop as you still use full throttle so you get correct airflow through boosters etc .

Tex

Tex has it right...you gotta have a system that allows your carb to run "wide open" so you get the correct air/fuel/flow mix which doesn't happen if you use a mechanical "bolt" to actually stop the throttle (butterflies) from opening all the way.
 
Well then I respectfully suggest that we eliminate all separate classes altogther...everyone one runs flat out in ONE Class and then I guess someone in a TOP FUEL DRAGSTER would win every race.
I think even NHRA has Super Stock "classes" with ET Records and if you go faster than the record you "break out"...and when you race someone in a lower class that person gets a "headstart" and if that person goes too fast they break out also and lose..In the "old days" ( I dont know if this still exist) you could only go faster than your respective National Record on the Final Run and then if you went faster than the National Record then your ET on that very run became the NEW National Record and then you had to run against that ET on future races...
PS: If I keep typing I will even confuse myself....lol...fact is, it is not really important one way or the other. Just strap yourself in and see how fast your car will go...that is what is important.

- - - Updated - - -



Tex has it right...you gotta have a system that allows your carb to run "wide open" so you get the correct air/fuel/flow mix which doesn't happen if you use a mechanical "bolt" to actually stop the throttle (butterflies) from opening all the way.

I've used the bolt since the 90's. When I was running points I won 2 championships and numerous top fives. Won 3 races with 2 semis last year out of 13 tries. It works. Never hurt a piston. Doesn't mess with reaction time either.
Dug
 
Sure glad I got out when I did. Rule book was not volumes went to race just for the purpose of racing, did not worry about points or race schedules was a fun but expensive time even then. The exciting points at the time was often getting to the track and back home.
 
I just received my new Adjustable Restrictor Plate. I have a good friend that has been running this same product on his ThunderBolt all year.His car will run 9.90 wide open but that is NOT fast enuf for what is termed "C-Gas" here in California which is 9.60 heads up racing....so he slows it down to 10.60, which is "D-Gas". By using the dial indicator as the measuring device he turns the hexes on the end of the plate with a 1/2" socket which in turns moves the "slides" horizontally to close off the openings to the intake manifold. The carb still runs wide open but the air/fuel mixture is cut back and therefore reduces the horsepower and slows the car down. He has his setup dialed in almost perfectly and with the use of his restrictor plate adjusment and tire pressure he runs between 10.60 and 10.65 about every run.
I am going to use mine to cut the horsepower back so I can "save" my 8 3/4 rear end until I can get the money for a DANA. If my car will run 10.60 or 10.70 wide open then I will use the restrictor plate to cut the air/fuel to reduce the horsepower and dial into "E-Gas" which is 11.60 heads up racing. I can then also set the plate adjustment to run, let's sView attachment 262993View attachment 262994ay 11.20/11.30 or whatever and run just straight bracket racing....all in an effort to not take a chance of blowing out my 8 3/4.
I will make a few wide open passes, of course, just to see if I can get into the 10.60/10.70 range.

Who makes this plate and how thick is it the willys carb shop is to tall
 
I knew I remembered a thread you were gonna'
use or bought a throttle stop/restrictor of some sort...
You recently said you don't have one or don't use one...

------------------------------------------------------------------
Disclaimer; sorry in advance if I insult someone indirectly
I think I have a bit of cabin fever, too many days of rain/snow
these comments below, aren't or isn't intended at pointing at
or directed at anyone specifically, it's just for general discussion...


on another note :blah:


I know I'm sort of old school
& I'm sure some here will disagree, wholeheartedly...

I don't really care, just my opinion, thoughts...

Pretty soon people will be running the cars from the stands
by a remote control, what fun is that ?
'just sit there', point the car aim down the track & stab it,
Yawn !!!

I'm not a fan of driver aides, in any class
IMO it just takes the real sport/drivers/fun out of it

takes the driver out of the car
when it's
shifted automatically
a chip for the RPM in the burnout
a chip for the launch RPM
a chip or throttle stop, closes off the throttle at a fixed RPM or time
a chip or has a delay box for your reaction times
especially on a 5/10's sportsman tree, not heads up racing
(bracket racing you race yourself, against your own dial in)

IMO a mechanical throttle stop works just fine
it's an easy deal, just a little test & tune
keep notes on what you do, temp, track conditions, tune & RAD etc.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Some people bitch about the price of racing
& then the same people buy all that electronics ****
instead of doing something really basic/simple
that's been done for decades & done won with successfully
or they think it makes them win, with all that electronics drivers aides
but;
won't spend money to lighten the car,
lighter wheels & tires
or better lighter suspension components
to make it better weight bias & better weight where needed
or to buy better shocks, better tires proper gears,
proper converter, proper carb/ignitions
that's all better suited for their use/ET power levels etc.
or complain about trying to cut good lights 'without electronics'
think they will be 'way better' with all them electronics or 'Drivers aides'
or a phone call tune up, when the guys never seen you or your car run
they think it helps & makes them competitive

it makes no common sense

it's sort of the shepple/follower mentality,
Johnny or Julie did it & he/she won, we must all need it now...

sorry for the rant, I had to saw it :BangHead:

:bananadance:carry on :carrot:

--------------------------------------------------------------------

Thank you @dvw Doug :thumbsup:
you're a breath of fresh air, great knowledgeable guy
sharing a wealth of knowledge, helping others,
no matter how stubborn they seem to be,
they don't listen & you still persist, attempt to guide/help them...

& by the way, I agree with 99% of the time too...
 
Last edited:
So how accurate can you be without any electronics? N/SS runs index that is set once you make a qualifying pass. It allows NO electronics, air shifters, starting line chips, trans brakes, traction control. 10.5" tire limit. So every pass is on the foot brake with the leave RPM and shift made by the driver. We slow the car with a combination of a bolt in the linkage and weight. Our races go over a period of 3 days so keeping up with weather and track changes is crucial. I tried to print my log book but was unsuccessful. My car runs A/FX which is a 9.25 index. So here are the averages of 70 passes (qualifying and eliminations). 8 were in bracket mode so the car was run flat out quicker than 9.25. This screwed the average slightly. A few were lift foot do to the fact I was far ahead. Only 8 were slower than 9.27 (9.34 the slowest), none quicker than 9.21. Left lane average .0223 R/T, 9.2455 ET Right lane average .0381 R/T, 9.2297 ET. I will say that I do use a good weather station.
Doug
 
I knew I remembered a thread you were gonna'
use or bought a throttle stop/restrictor of some sort...
You recently said you don't have one or don't use one...

------------------------------------------------------------------
Disclaimer; sorry in advance if I insult someone indirectly
I think I have a bit of cabin fever, too many days of rain/snow
these comments below, aren't or isn't intended at pointing at
or directed at anyone specifically, it's just for general discussion...


on another note :blah:


I know I'm sort of old school
& I'm sure some here will disagree, wholeheartedly...

I don't really care, just my opinion, thoughts...

Pretty soon people will be running the cars from the stands
by a remote control, what fun is that ?
'just sit there', point the car aim down the track & stab it,
Yawn !!!

I'm not a fan of driver aides, in any class
IMO it just takes the real sport/drivers/fun out of it

takes the driver out of the car
when it's
shifted automatically
a chip for the RPM in the burnout
a chip for the launch RPM
a chip or throttle stop, closes off the throttle at a fixed RPM or time
a chip or has a delay box for your reaction times
especially on a 5/10's sportsman tree, not heads up racing
(bracket racing you race yourself, against your own dial in)

IMO a mechanical throttle stop works just fine
it's an easy deal, just a little test & tune
keep notes on what you do, temp, track conditions, tune & RAD etc.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Some people bitch about the price of racing
& then the same people buy all that electronics ****
instead of doing something really basic/simple
that's been done for decades & done won with successfully
or they think it makes them win, with all that electronics drivers aides
but;
won't spend money to lighten the car,
lighter wheels & tires
or better lighter suspension components
to make it better weight bias & better weight where needed
or to buy better shocks, better tires proper gears,
proper converter, proper carb/ignitions
that's all better suited for their use/ET power levels etc.
or complain about trying to cut good lights 'without electronics'
think they will be 'way better' with all them electronics or 'Drivers aides'
or a phone call tune up, when the guys never seen you or your car run
they think it helps & makes them competitive

it makes no common sense

it's sort of the shepple/follower mentality,
Johnny or Julie did it & he/she won, we must all need it now...

sorry for the rant, I had to saw it :BangHead:

:bananadance:carry on :carrot:

--------------------------------------------------------------------

Thank you @dvw Doug :thumbsup:
you're a breath of fresh air, great knowledgeable guy
sharing a wealth of knowledge, helping others,
no matter how stubborn they seem to be,
they don't listen & you still persist, attempt to guide/help them...

& by the way, I agree with 99% of the time too...
Budnicks,,
I posted this thread about the ET Genie over a year ago. I never used it in competition. I sold it for about 25 bucks less than I paid for it.
I do run a transbrake because 90% of my competition use transbrakes.
I have a 3600RPM chip for my transbrake lauch because 90% of my competition does use a chip for their transbrake launch.
I use a 5000 RPM chip in my MSD 3 Step for the water box RPM limit. I do this to protect my motor from overrevving in the box. I start out in 2nd gear, bring up to the chip and then shift into 3rd and take it back up the the 5000 chip. This is NO competition advantage...just saves my motor, in my opinion.
I shift my tranny manually (no electric or air shifter). I set the shift lite at 6200 for the 1-2 shift and 6400 for the 2-3 shift....I think almost everyone uses a shift lite on their tach.
I have a high end chip in my 3 step. That top end chip is 7000RPM. Again, I do this to protect the motor from overrevving. It is of no competition advantage. I go thru the lights right at 6900 RPM in high gear which is 131.5x MPH with my 94" rollout slicks and 4.30 gear.
Now, if transbrakes were NOT ALLOWED at the tracks where I race 100% of the time the transbrake would be a different story. Even the AFX/Nostalgia West Group that I race with in Las Vegas ( Mopars at the Strip) and Famoso ( NHRA California Hot Rod ReUnion) allow a transbrake and if you don't have one you can forget about going rounds and or winning.
I do also have an ON LINE APP for Air Density which you gotta have to know what your car is gonna run and the air goes up or down. I think all serious racers keep track of Air Density as the day progresses.
I am not whining about your post and I understand your thoughts, just had to clarify what I do and why I do it. Thanks.
PS: When I started racing my car in the fall of 2014 it ran 12.154 at 110.69. At my last race (November of 2018) it ran 10.162 at 131.44. I have spent boatloads of money to make the car as fast as it is now. I have spent ZERO money on starting line electronics, throttle stops, etc...just better motor, better heads, better carb, better headers, better transmission, better suspension, better differential, better ignition, some fiberglass body panels, etc, etc...
I know your posting is NOT directed at me but I had to share this info.
 
Last edited:
Budnicks,,
I posted this thread about the ET Genie over a year ago. I never used it in competition. I sold it for about 25 bucks less than I paid for it.
I do run a transbrake because 90% of my competition use transbrakes.
I have a 3600RPM chip for my transbrake lauch because 90% of my competition does use a chip for their transbrake launch.
I use a 5000 RPM chip in my MSD 3 Step for the water box RPM limit. I do this to protect my motor from overrevving in the box. I start out in 2nd gear, bring up to the chip and then shift into 3rd and take it back up the the 5000 chip. This is NO competition advantage...just saves my motor, in my opinion.
I shift my tranny manually (no electric or air shifter). I set the shift lite at 6200 for the 1-2 shift and 6400 for the 2-3 shift....I think almost everyone uses a shift lite on their tach.
I have a high end chip in my 3 step. That top end chip is 7000RPM. Again, I do this to protect the motor from overrevving. It is of no competition advantage. I go thru the lights right at 6900 RPM in high gear which is 131.5x MPH with my 94" rollout slicks and 4.30 gear.
Now, if transbrakes were NOT ALLOWED at the tracks where I race 100% of the time the transbrake would be a different story. Even the AFX/Nostalgia West Group that I race with in Las Vegas ( Mopars at the Strip) and Famoso ( NHRA California Hot Rod ReUnion) allow a transbrake and if you don't have one you can forget about going rounds and or winning.
I do also have an ON LINE APP for Air Density which you gotta have to know what your car is gonna run and the air goes up or down. I think all serious racers keep track of Air Density as the day progresses.
I am not whining about your post and I understand your thoughts, just had to clarify what I do and why I do it. Thanks.
PS: When I started racing my car in the fall of 2014 it ran 12.154 at 110.69. At my last race (November of 2018) it ran 10.162 at 131.44. I have spent boatloads of money to make the car as fast as it is now. I have spent ZERO money on starting line electronics, throttle stops, etc...just better motor, better heads, better carb, better headers, better transmission, better suspension, better differential, better ignition, some fiberglass body panels, etc, etc...
I know your posting is NOT directed at me but I had to share this info.
:thumbsup: good to see & hear

thanks for the clarifications too...

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I don't think there's anything wrong with
either a roll control/line-lock or a trans-brake,
or ignition systems, even retards etc., if the rules allow...
IMO those are more true performance aides, not drivers aides
most the rest is/are driver aides, as I said above...

albeit;
for those that choose to do it
more power to ya' 'if that's what you want to do'
have all remote control car, an 88 y/o grandma could drive
I just don't like it much, makes the sport boring,
boring as hell, especially for the spectators,
(I know most racers aren't there for the spectators, but without them there's no sport)
people killing all/most the power right after the launch
have a capable 6 or 7 or even 8 second car,
but running 8's or 9's or 10's
then kill all it's power, than back on, after a couple seconds of bog,
dead throttle, then take off again,
like most all the Super Classes S/ST S/G S/C etc. today
'Big *** YAWN'
& unnecessarily more costly

my post was just a rant, wasn't about anyone specifically :bananadance:
 
Last edited:
:thumbsup: good to see & hear

thanks for the clarifications too...

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I don't think there's anything wrong with
either a roll control/line-lock or a trans-brake,
or ignition systems, even retards etc., if the rules allow...
IMO those are more true performance aides, not drivers aides
most the rest is/are driver aides, as I said above...

albeit;
for those that choose to do it
more power to ya' 'if that's what you want to do'
have all remote control car, an 88 y/o grandma could drive
I just don't like it much, makes the sport boring,
boring as hell, especially for the spectators,
(I know most racers aren't there for the spectators, but without them there's no sport)
people killing all/most the power right after the launch
have a capable 6 or 7 or even 8 second car,
but running 8's or 9's or 10's
then kill all it's power, than back on, after a couple seconds of bog,
dead throttle, then take off again,
like most all the Super Classes S/ST S/G S/C etc. today
'Big *** YAWN'
& unnecessarily more costly

my post was just a rant, wasn't about anyone specifically :bananadance:
Budnicks,
I agree about those NHRA class racers that launch hard off the line, then kill the throttle and then get back in it later and then keep their heads turned towards the other lane to see where their competition is....I think that is kinda nutty racing...but...I am sure they have their side of the story.
 
Last edited:
I really can't stand any of the driver helper stuff.
Just my opinion and not meant to offend anyone.
I have a line lock, rev limiter and starter retard in my car. All of these driver aid controls and electronics drive me crazy.
There is nothing more gratifying than going out and stomping people with trans brakes, restrictor plates and computers.
I guess I'm old school, but if I lose, I lose. I don't complain unless it's about myself and something I did wrong.
I compare it to going to car shows.
I built my GTX in my driveway by myself with no previous experience.
Drive up to a show and and park it next to someone that just paid 50 grand for a car they did nothing to.
Guy next to me gets a trophy. Big deal.
I did everything myself on mine.
Anyway, if you know your car, you should be able to dial it in for changing weather and track conditions.
I would take losing and being competitive over winning because I had an "advantage " any day of the week!
Winning surely won't make me rich!
 
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