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New bullet for the "Brick"

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Last night I blew apart the starter to check it out. It's been in the car since 1991 - never had a single issue with it. I still need to split the gear (reduction) box but, the brushes are still good and the armature looks good too - so far the only issue I found is that the contacts are worn pretty good (see close up pic) This is typical for these Nippondenso starters and the contacts are cheap and easy to get.
 
Update - I bought the block from my friend and took it to Bob Mazzolini to get it sonic checked. This one is much thicker than my first block, Here is the worksheet. I originally wanted to go 60 over but have decided to err on the side of caution and go 30 over. It was cast 3/2/72 and is stamped H440, HP2 - so I'm gonna have a legit HP motor! (yea I know it's meaningless) I've spent $725 to this point on the block(s)

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Update - I picked up set of 10 inch wide Welds to replace the 8 inchers I ran for years. All (or most) of the NHRA stock eliminator racers run 10 inch wheels with 9 inch slicks because you get a better contact patch. Those guys know how to make a car go fast so I figure I'd make the change - I'll need ALL the traction I can get with the new motor and I did notice the outer edge (about 3/4in) of my tires weren't touching the ground. I sold the 8 inchers (bare pair in pic) at MATS last weekend so there's no turning back now.
 
There many VERY fast cars getting it done on a small tire.I've been low 9's on a 10.5w and weigh 3700 lbs!
 
Weight with driver for this car is 3650. Best 60ft was 1.45 - with all the changes I'm shootin' for mid 1.30's.
 
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Taking out the trusty old 8 3/4 - now I can start mocking up the Dana.
 
My wife named the car but I've been sayin it has the aerodynamics of a brick for 20 years!!:rofl:
You painted it on the door.I still street drive so I have kept the body free of any painted name or stickers,just on the 1/4 window.

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should have asked about our bulk head washers when you ordered your girdle kit. we have them with a double o ring so they seal both the inside of the pan and the outside of the pan.
 
should have asked about our bulk head washers when you ordered your girdle kit. we have them with a double o ring so they seal both the inside of the pan and the outside of the pan.

Please tell me about 'em - not exactly sure what you mean.
 
here are the bulkhead washers we make. they provide a dual oring seal on the oil pan for zero leaks. each o ring is contained in its own groove so there is no extruding and no weeping forming a perfect seal.

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Those look real NICE! I used the white nylon to go with the o-ring on the an fitting that comes out of the pan.

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Not much of an update but I got my Jesel belt drive system on Friday. This is one item that I probably could have done without but it's something I really wanted for this build.
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This car was originally equipped with A/C and this hole in the dash housed the center A/C vent. I have removed it and I'm going to install a panel to hold some indicator (idiot) lights.

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I made the panel out of aluminum and I'm still figuring out how I want to lay it out (cardboard pattern) It'l have a large oil pressure lite, and 3 small LED's. One for fuel pump (blue), one for water pump (green) and one for charge (alt) indicator (red)


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Still have to decide which O/P light to use - the one with the chrome bezel uses a incandescent bulb and the other one is a LED that is normally used as a marker lamp for semi trucks and trailers. The LED is much brighter.

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This car was originally equipped with A/C and this hole in the dash housed the center A/C vent. I have removed it and I'm going to install a panel to hold some indicator (idiot) lights.

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I made the panel out of aluminum and I'm still figuring out how I want to lay it out (cardboard pattern) It'l have a large oil pressure lite, and 3 small LED's. One for fuel pump (blue), one for water pump (green) and one for charge (alt) indicator (red)


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Still have to decide which O/P light to use - the one with the chrome bezel uses a incandescent bulb and the other one is a LED that is normally used as a marker lamp for semi trucks and trailers. The LED is much brighter.

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Hello theman440 wondering how are you planning on running your oil pressure light, I need to do the same thing on my 65 satellite, also where are you purchasing those lights?, thank you in advance, Jay.
 
Hello theman440 wondering how are you planning on running your oil pressure light, I need to do the same thing on my 65 satellite, also where are you purchasing those lights?, thank you in advance, Jay.

For the O/P I plan to use a 20psi n/c switch to supply the ground to the light. The positive side to ign "on", So anytime there is less than 20psi the light should be on. The larger O/P light I've had for years and I can't remember where I got it. I've decided to use the smaller LED - you can buy them from any Semi truck parts/accessory store.

Link to O/P switch - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/qcr-61-735

I got the small LED's from McFadden Dale
 
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