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new engine

the edelbrock literature states that the exhast ports/flange are extended 1/8" outward.

Thanks, I've been looking for this very answer for awhile. As it is now with my stock iron heads and Hooker 1 and 7/8" headers with 3" collectors, the collectors just barely clear the torsion bars.

So it looks like my choices will be a) run iron heads b) run Stealth heads c) run Edelbrocks and have to buy $700 headers. Or maybe d) run Indy EZs - does anyone know how the dimension of those compare to stock iron?
 
Lew, I have a bad case of "intakemanifoldheadsandheader" envy. Are you going to get the old school football filters? To me, they are essential if you are going for the retro look...
 
Thanks, I've been looking for this very answer for awhile. As it is now with my stock iron heads and Hooker 1 and 7/8" headers with 3" collectors, the collectors just barely clear the torsion bars.

So it looks like my choices will be a) run iron heads b) run Stealth heads c) run Edelbrocks and have to buy $700 headers. Or maybe d) run Indy EZs - does anyone know how the dimension of those compare to stock iron?
it's not politically correct to say this anymore in the hot rod world, but i wouldn't let the use of iron heads hold me back. the iron heads i took off the old engine will probably make more power than these edelbrocks. used ez's once and don't like them and don't understand the hype. never touched stealths but they are edelbrock copies with cosmetic changes. sounds like it would be more economical to work with what you have. tti headers are around $900 now, but the fit is super. alum heads are from $1000-$2000 and you'll have to work on them.

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Lew, I have a bad case of "intakemanifoldheadsandheader" envy. Are you going to get the old school football filters? To me, they are essential if you are going for the retro look...
i'd love to use the "football" air filters but i don't think they'll fit the carb spacing on the edelbrock intake. air filter stuff is a little up in the air now. i do have one of those puny edelbrock filters for now, but i'm with you on the "footballs".
 
looks cool let us hear it when you get it running
 
i was hoping to get my stuff back from the machine shop this week, but so far no go.
 
Dumb question,.......what CID is this "new" motor? Its a RB block, but Its difficult to tell if its a 383 to a 440......
 
got my stuff back from the machine shop yesterday morning. spent most of yesterday mocking up the heads and intake, and looking stuff over. i'll probably start file fitting the rings today. i did take a couple of pics and will post later.

67 power wagon; this a .030 over 440.
 
ok some pics of the pistons, rods, heads and some block work. the pistons are icon 838, 440 source rods, edelbrock rpm heads. i also i have pic of notches i put in the block for oil drain back from the heads. the drain back holes in the heads didn't match up well so i did some modifying. i don't want oil ponding in the heads.

something you guys might want to watch out for here; i had to replace the intermediate shaft bushing the machine shop install. it had way too much clearance on the shaft, about .010", so i put a new "old" one in. the "new" stuff may be some off shore junk..? did some main bearing clearance checking, that didn't go well, details later.
 

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Lew,
That's comes out to a 445.8 which they would call a 446 CID... NICE! Or a 7.3 liter........WOW! The normal 440 is a 7.2L NICE work, and it looks clean, be sure to post pics of the motor with the newly gotten heads!!!!!

Those Chrome valve covers, those factory Mopar or not? Looks good tho!
got my stuff back from the machine shop yesterday morning. spent most of yesterday mocking up the heads and intake, and looking stuff over. i'll probably start file fitting the rings today. i did take a couple of pics and will post later.

67 power wagon; this a .030 over 440.
 
i haven't been getting a lot done. had to send the crank back last tuesday due to too much main bearing clearance. i did get a chance to start painting and did some whittling on the heads. i thought the as cast ports were a little rough and the cnc thing at the port windows was a little goofy. i'm going to use an aftermarket valve cover, pictured on the left, because the mopar covers didn't lay flat on the machined gasket area.
 

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The Chrome versions of valve covers are almost factory looking.. aren't they? I know they look damn good setting there look even better when the unit is running I'm sure your thinking but................. they look mean and nasty, just as Ma Mopar would have wanted......
 
The Chrome versions of valve covers are almost factory looking.. aren't they? I know they look damn good setting there look even better when the unit is running I'm sure your thinking but................. they look mean and nasty, just as Ma Mopar would have wanted......
those aftermarket covers in the pic are basically the same as edelbrock or the new direct connection covers but they don't have a logo, which i like. the upside is they're a little heavier gauge metal and are tall enough for about any rocker combo. down side is they take a gm pcv valve. i think i'm going to for go the pcv for now and just use 2 push on breathers. crank was supposed to be done last week, didn't happen. oh well. i guess i'll just take a cold 'tater and wait.
 
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