No spark to plug, Pertronix 2 with Ignitor module 2

[CloedFL]

Looking for some help or advice

Engine: 383 1970 on my Charger

Trying to get the pertronix with ignitor module 2 running but even after a replacement distributor, a 3rd cap and rotor it wont distribute the spark

Facts:
- 12V on the coil and 10.9 while cranking
- matching coil mounted with 0.6 ohms, no ballast resistor
- wiring all properly as confirmed by Pertronix
- if i hook up the timing light on the coil to distributor wire, my timing light is flashing
- timing light hooked up on any of the spark plug wires, no flashing
- coil to distributor wire removed and positioned to a ground- spark
Coil to dist wire removed - sparks from the coil
- 3 different coils tested all with 0.6-0.7 ohms
- hotwired the coil directly from the battery - still the same

I cant imagine that 2 distributors and 3 caps and rotors are faulty - but still i dont get any of the distributors to do their job and distribute haha

Any advice on what could be wrong?

 

[Canadian1968]

Can you post some pictures of the rotor / cap? Are you sure the metal tab of rotor is making contact with center/ coil contact of the distributor

 

[CloedFL]

Even bent the tab a bit up to make sure its contacting

Could it be the wires? Have Accel 8 mm extreme 9000 ceramic ultra hibtemp ferro spiral core installed

Engine was running before with the mopar orange box

 

[pnora]

What distributor is that?

 

[RJRENTON]

What distributor is that?

Looks like a GM-hermaphrodite distributor adapted to fit a Mopar application. Are you sure the Pertronics module is functioning? It functions like a Hall effect magnetic switch, switching coil primary current......
BOB RENTON

 

[69Bee]

You have secondary voltage at the coil wire, so to me that verifies the coil, coil wire, distributor trigger switch, wiring, etc. The ONLY thing I can point at is the cap center carbon button. I know you tried 3 caps, but if voltage goes to the cap, but does not come out, my money is the distributor cap button, and before you poo-poo that, I actually had a Prestolite cap with a removable carbon button did that exact thing. I ordered a cap from Year One, and wrapped the button in tin foil so I could drive the car until the new cap arrived.

 

[pnora]

You have secondary voltage at the coil wire, so to me that verifies the coil, coil wire, distributor trigger switch, wiring, etc. The ONLY thing I can point at is the cap center carbon button. I know you tried 3 caps, but if voltage goes to the cap, but does not come out, my money is the distributor cap button, and before you poo-poo that, I actually had a Prestolite cap with a removable carbon button did that exact thing. I ordered a cap from Year One, and wrapped the button in tin foil so I could drive the car until the new cap arrived.

I have seen caps with the button gone but they still ran. He claims it will trigger a timing light on the coil wire, however he says -spark off the coil wire it self. I would have to assume -spark means no arc to ground. Poster should make sure the distributor is turning. Something very obvious has to be missing.

 

[69Bee]

I have seen caps with the button gone but they still ran. He claims it will trigger a timing light on the coil wire, however he says -spark off the coil wire it self. I would have to assume -spark means no arc to ground. Poster should make sure the distributor is turning. Something very obvious has to be missing.

I thought about that, but if the distributor was not turning, the coil could not be firing thru the coil wire because the distributor igniter would not be turning, but it is, so the distributor has to be turning.

 

[pnora]

I thought about that, but if the distributor was not turning, the coil could not be firing thru the coil wire because the distributor igniter would not be turning, but it is, so the distributor has to be turning.

You would think so, but he makes it sound like no spark to ground off the coil wire. If there is in fact no spark the timing light might be getting triggered for some odd reason. He has to clarify if there is spark to ground off the coil wire. Using the timing light thinking there is spark may be making him head down the rabbit hole.

 

[CloedFL]

Many thanks for all your posts

I can tick off the following points:
- distributor is turning, was also checked with cap off
- i do get a nice blue spark jumping out of the coil with no wire attached to the coil
- i do get a nice spark when i ground the wire from the coil to whatever ground source

So to me the things remaine are
- how can i proof the rotor is getting the spark?
- how can i proof its getting to the dist cap / spark plug wires
- could it be a wire issue with to high resistance so the spark is not strong enough?

 

[Geoff 2]

You can get a spark in free air....but will not spark a compressed mixture [ bad coil ] . A good spark has a bluish tinge, weak spark is yellow-ish.

 

[CloedFL]

You can get a spark in free air....but will not spark a compressed mixture [ bad coil ] . A good spark has a bluish tinge, weak spark is yellow-ish.

I have tried 3 coils in the right ohm range and the spark i get is bluish - so there i think i am fine

 

[Canadian1968]

Pull the cap , hook up the coil wire to the cap. Now find something to touch the center pin and try and make it jump to one of the plug contacts . Becareful !