No spark

[HALIFAXHOPS]

The only Prestolite "electronic" ignition system I recall Mopar using was the unit that was optional with the middle 60's Hemi and MaxWedge applications. The one I remember wss a large unit that was mostly a finned heat sink with the switching transistor on it.....but it was triggered by the points distributor. I've seen the module shown on a few industrial applications (fork trucks running propane) and some early, mid to late 60's AMC ...... AMX & SCrambler......but that's a long time ago.......Just talking out loud........
BOB RENTON

Bob it was thier or prestolights CDI unit. The one he posted is a early 70's electronic unit. Not sure how to test that box and it had a funky pickup. To the OP I would dump it since you cant easily find the parts for it and go to a Mopar or petronix set up. Have a pic of the inside of the distributor with the cap of.

CDI unit I have

 

[HALIFAXHOPS]

Yeah I tried that already no spark, but thanks. I think I'm just gonna take it all off and put a new distributor and all on.

Prob the way to go. Watch out on the new Mopar setups they are made wherever and are a "authorise" product. Lots of problems with thier orange ECU's failing.

 

[Roger63]

Bob it was thier or prestolights CDI unit. The one he posted is a early 70's electronic unit. Not sure how to test that box and it had a funky pickup. To the OP I would dump it since you cant easily find the parts for it and go to a Mopar or petronix set up. Have a pic of the inside of the distributor with the cap of.

CDI unit I have

View attachment 1345221

I had a pertronix 3 on my last car no problems with it, I was just trying to get it running to see what I had.

 

[RJRENTON]

Bob it was thier or prestolights CDI unit. The one he posted is a early 70's electronic unit. Not sure how to test that box and it had a funky pickup. To the OP I would dump it since you cant easily find the parts for it and go to a Mopar or petronix set up. Have a pic of the inside of the distributor with the cap of.

CDI unit I have

View attachment 1345221

Ray,
THANK YOU FOR YOUR PIX and the information. This is what I remember....as far as the OP's query, I just thought it MIGHT be AMC, as they purchased components from others, like Motorola - alternators & regulators, Saginaw for PS pumps, Chrysler for transmissions, Dana Corp for axles etc. Delco for ignition stuff, ..... it'll be interesting to see what turns up.....
BOB RENTON

 

[HALIFAXHOPS]

There are some older "odd" ignitions out there have a thread on FABO on them.
Show us some odd ignitions from the past

I kind of collect them.

 

[Roger63]

Tried a new coil, same result so I guess it's time for a new system.

 

[RemCharger]

What kind of pickup do you have?

 

[RJRENTON]

There are some older "odd" ignitions out there have a thread on FABO on them.
Show us some odd ignitions from the past

I kind of collect them.

Great pix and history......years ago, I built the Heathkit unit and put it on my father's Ford. It worked just fine....but the Ford (292 Y block) did not turn into a vehicle with blazing with tire melting torque and blinding acceleration and 30+ MPG.....as some articles proclaimed. Thanks for the memories.....
BOB RENTON

 

[khryslerkid]

Tried a new coil, same result so I guess it's time for a new system.

I hate to see you throw parts at it. It could be a simple fix. Check the coil wire connectivity, use another wire, more than likely it has to be a loose or broken connection. When checking your coil voltage move the wire around and watch to see if you loose voltage. It might have voltage until you put it under load. Do you have the proper voltage when cranking?

This is a good video for the Mopar setup, maybe not totally for your ecu but you'll get the gest of what's what.

 

[Roger63]

I hate to see you throw parts at it. It could be a simple fix. Check the coil wire connectivity, use another wire, more than likely it has to be a loose or broken connection. When checking your coil voltage move the wire around and watch to see if you loose voltage. It might have voltage until you put it under load. Do you have the proper voltage when cranking?

This is a good video for the Mopar setup, maybe not totally for your ecu but you'll get the gest of what's what.

Oh I'm still working on it, but I'm going to build a new motor eventually so it won't be wasted money.

 

[Roger63]

 

[Roger63]

I hate to see you throw parts at it. It could be a simple fix. Check the coil wire connectivity, use another wire, more than likely it has to be a loose or broken connection. When checking your coil voltage move the wire around and watch to see if you loose voltage. It might have voltage until you put it under load. Do you have the proper voltage when cranking?

This is a good video for the Mopar setup, maybe not totally for your ecu but you'll get the gest of what's what.

Thanks for the video I'm gonna check everything again tomorrow.

 

[RJRENTON]

I hate to see you throw parts at it. It could be a simple fix. Check the coil wire connectivity, use another wire, more than likely it has to be a loose or broken connection. When checking your coil voltage move the wire around and watch to see if you loose voltage. It might have voltage until you put it under load. Do you have the proper voltage when cranking?

This is a good video for the Mopar setup, maybe not totally for your ecu but you'll get the gest of what's what.

Interesting video. It would have been interesting to see the inside of the distributor to see the pick up or position device; if it was a reluctor and a magnetic pick up coil assembly or something else like a shutter wheel and an infrared LED and receiver. As you will no doubt realize the engine being demonstrated is NOT a Chrysler, maybe a GM, as the didtributor is in the back of the block and the carb is Rochester Q-Jet, probably a small block Chevy. The Mopar module shown functions as a simple on-off switch just like it does in a Mopar. The presenters reference to the dwell event is incorrect as the dwell time is controlled by the module's internal timing network of the programmable UNI-junction transistor and the surrounding resistor-capacitor network. The distributor's pick up device is for position only and initiates the switching transistor's turn-off event event, creating the spark. Just my opinion of course......
BOB RENTON

 

[HALIFAXHOPS]

The internals are the prestolight electronic ignition That is its own animal. it is or was a aftermarket set up to add in a stock distributor. I would dump it and figure out what way to go with it alot of choices. Points, electronic mopar, petronix, msd etc.

 

[Roger63]

The internals are the prestolight electronic ignition That is its own animal. it is or was a aftermarket set up to add in a stock distributor. I would dump it and figure out what way to go with it alot of choices. Points, electronic mopar, petronix, msd etc.

I ordered a pertronix distributor last night. Help is on the way lol.

 

[HALIFAXHOPS]

Good choice. If you are going to toss that old prestolight setup I dont have one in my weird ignition shelf I will take it.

 

[Roger63]

Good choice. If you are going to toss that old prestolight setup I dont have one in my weird ignition shelf I will take it.

Sure what parts do you want? Just pm me an address and I will send it to you.

 

[HALIFAXHOPS]

All of it if possible. Since I do ignition just been collecting the older systems. PM on its way.

 

[ka0mek]

check the reluctor gap in the distributor too. If that seems good maybe just try a known good coil.

but use a brass or a non magnetic feeler gauge . if u use a steelone u will short out the pick up coil . also check the pick up coil for continuity it may be open f it ws a chrysler set up there i a check list fr it

 

[RJRENTON]

but use a brass or a non magnetic feeler gauge . if u use a steelone u will short out the pick up coil . also check the pick up coil for continuity it may be open f it ws a chrysler set up there i a check list fr it

The purpose of a brass feeler gauge is to eliminate the magnetic effect or pull from the pick up coil's magnet which may result in an incorrect gap. It WILL NOT SHORT OUT THE PICK IP COIL as it is not in contact with wires. It is used to get an accurate air gap between the reluctor and the pick up coil's pole segment.
BOB RENTON