Oil pan leak

[Shorthorse]

How many of us "had to use the ballpeen hammer to "get the pan back"

Oh yes. Especially those over-tightened bolt holes.
Most pan flanges seem pretty flimsy to me. Not sure what you'd call it but does anybody make an external, washer (girdle?) for oil pan flanges? Something that would extend over all the mounting bolt holes, front to back. I would think that would help distribute the pressure more evenly. On my transmission I went with a cast aluminum pan. Aside from their stated benefits, I went that way because of the thick machined flange.

 

[khryslerkid]

You need a gasket because it's stamped steel. You need a little sealant to fill the imperfections that's why I use copper coat it's
very sticky so the gasket wont move, Its very thin and it seals.

I like useing the copper coat also, permatex #2 in the joints. Very light torque on the bolts with just enough pressure to see the gasket bulge.

I see you got a red "X" from someone who didn't care to leave a comment. I hate that! Wuss

 

[Superb Bee]

i was taught a little trick by a builder after I had some trouble with them leaking. Clean everything with degreaser scratch up with some Emmy or scotch pad, wipe with achohol and make sure it is all oil free. Permetex and warm the pan and block with the heat gun let it set up a bit then bolt it all up but not torqued down just snug. Let it dry and then torque it down. It takes a bit of feel to get it right but I never have issues I also always use Mancini billet rear main bracket

 

[R/T]

Hammer the hole into a socket.

 

[brian6pac]

You need a gasket because it's stamped steel. You need a little sealant to fill the imperfections that's why I use copper coat it's
very sticky so the gasket wont move, Its very thin and it seals.

I just said what I do and why I do It, apparently Moparwacko does not like it, So what nobody ask you! #&@ *@$%

 

[Superb Bee]

Maybe the member hit the x by accident?

 

[khryslerkid]

Maybe the member hit the x by accident?

They could have. Fat finger syndrome!

 

[Superb Bee]

Yah I know I hit the thanks when I m an to hit the like all the time. Fingers been banged with ratchets wrenches and hammers too many times not to mention the countless times I jamb them up between a starter and bell housing or alternator bracket and valve cover

 

[Fran Blacker]

Friend of mine use grind a little metal off the rear main seal retainer on the area on the inside where the bumps for the end oil pan bolts are. He put a motor together and it leaked the two bumps hit the rear main cap and cocked the retainer.

 

[brian6pac]

Yah I know I hit the thanks when I m an to hit the like all the time. Fingers been banged with ratchets wrenches and hammers too many times not to mention the countless times I jamb them up between a starter and bell housing or alternator bracket and valve cover

Ya I agree with the fat fingers, smashed knuckles, plus I found my fingers are dyslexic also, damn good thing that spell check!

 

[Superb Bee]

D

Ya I agree with the fat fingers, smashed knuckles, plus I found my fingers are dyslexic also, damn good thing that spell check!

disslexick

 

[Fran Blacker]

Oh yes. Especially those over-tightened bolt holes.
Most pan flanges seem pretty flimsy to me. Not sure what you'd call it but does anybody make an external, washer (girdle?) for oil pan flanges? Something that would extend over all the mounting bolt holes, front to back. I would think that would help distribute the pressure more evenly. On my transmission I went with a cast aluminum pan. Aside from their stated benefits, I went that way because of the thick machined flange.

Desperation Girdle, Home Depot sell 1/2"x1/2" aluminum channel 1/16" thick 96" long $10. Drill holes to match pan gasket, Would need to make 4 pieces. Put open side of channel facing pan and use 1" bolts with washers to bolt pan and channel and pan on. That will give even pressure end to end on pan. I wouldn't do it but....

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

World of difference a billet rail makes.The valve cover rails are 3/8 thick,same with the trans pan.
While my engine is out I will measure up for a fab oil pan.

 

[Shorthorse]

Desperation Girdle, Home Depot sell 1/2"x1/2" aluminum channel 1/16" thick 96" long $10. Drill holes to match pan gasket, Would need to make 4 pieces. Put open side of channel facing pan and use 1" bolts with washers to bolt pan and channel and pan on. That will give even pressure end to end on pan. I wouldn't do it but....

Seems like a fair amount of guys fight pan leaks. That would probably work pretty well. I did some searching. Looks like the official term is, Oil Pan Reinforcement. Seems to be tons of them for GM and Ford but as usual, couldn't find any for Mopar.

 

[dvw]

With all the sealants being used why the gaskets?

You don't need them, but. Wait until you try to remove the pan. VERY difficult. I use the gasket so there is something to tear on removal. The reason for using a small bead of RTV is that it will fill the uneven surface of the stamped pan. A reasonably straight pan surface will seal with no issue. No reinforcements are necessary. I agree clean is a MUST. The RTV must be able to adhere to the metal surfaces. I learned to seal motors as a Flat rate tech for 30 years plus. A comeback is a free-be and makes you no money.
Doug

 

[65-440]

Ok, so here's where I'm at with this. I left the inspection cover off after the engine build incase I had Any leaks, well I do ! ... today I went underneath the car, snugged the oil pan bolts again and installed the inspection cover. My thought is if I have oil on the face of the cover it's still the pan gasket, if there's oil on the inside of the cover it has to be coming from above the pan rail. Agree ??

 

[miller]

Agree. Question...any chance the pan surface is getting bent at the bolt holes?
I know on my 'new and improved' pan, didn't have any stiffening ridges between the holes, all flat. Just snugging the bolts would bend it. I would up making a outer girdle for the entire flange, that helped.

 

[Daves69]

And out side the box, is your PCV working correctly?

 

[65-440]

Agree. Question...any chance the pan surface is getting bent at the bolt holes?
I know on my 'new and improved' pan, didn't have any stiffening ridges between the holes, all flat. Just snugging the bolts would bend it. I would up making a outer girdle for the entire flange, that helped.

As far as I can tell the surface is still flat. When I had the pan off last week there were no dimples from the bolts. I only used 1/4" ratchet to snug them down !

 

[65-440]

And out side the box, is your PCV working correctly?

I assume it is, good engine vacuum and the pcv valve rattles when you shake it ! It is the original 3 piece style pcv, I don't like it but had the valve covers and went with it.