Oil Pump For Stock 440

[RJRENTON]

As stated earlier, my recommendation is to run the original pump, and based on data, decide what to do.

What is your recommendation for the OP?

My recommendation based on my experiences is to use the high volume oil pump, which, superficially appears to be diametrically opposite of your recommendation.....fine. I would prefer to error on the "too much oil volume is better than not enough oil volume", as the oil provides, in addition to lubrication, cooling of the bearing journal by providing more volume to carry away heat, (and to maintain the affore mentioned hydrodynamic wedge), similar to high circulating volumes and velocities in the cooling system. The cost differences between a "standard" volume pump and a "high volume" pump is nominal (with in $10 - $15 +/-). But....I'm sure there are just as many proponents that advocate FOR the high volume pump as there are FOR the standard volume pump.
BOB RENTON

 

[OKDart]

The way I see it, if your oil pressure only gets to relief pressure (60 PSI) when the engine is cold and stays well below during normal operation, you should get a high volume pump.

 

[streetmachine]

Thank you all again. I will keep this thread bookmarked as I continue to work on getting this car back on the road.

 

[71gtx471]

Basically you know nothing about the internals of this eng,stock/rebuilt ?,if it is a stock RV eng.it should have the roller type timing chain no nylon to worry about,RV engs.tend to have lower miles on them,I would pull the intake & inspect,you can see the top of the timing gear through the holes in the block,If its nice & clean in the valley & the chains not nylon the eng. may be stock low miles or rebuilt,me personally I would run a stock pump unless the eng.is heavily worn & or has low oil PSI.

 

[Babyblue66]

Sorry, you must have failed physics in high school. Pressure and volume are "Inversely Proportional".. That means, when the volume increases (larger diameter hole), pressure decreases. And in the reverse, when the hole size is made smaller, volume decreases and pressure increases.

I put a standard spring in my high volume pump that made too much pressure. It is now standard pressure.

 

[RJRENTON]

I put a standard spring in my high volume pump that made too much pressure. It is now standard pressure.

But it is still a high volume pump that is capable of producing a lower pressure. Its not the spring thst makes yhe determination but the physical size of the pump body (bigger or thicker) and the rotating parts.
BOB RENTON

 

[Babyblue66]

But it is still a high volume pump that is capable of producing a lower pressure. Its not the spring thst makes yhe determination but the physical size of the pump body (bigger or thicker) and the rotating parts.
BOB RENTON

Yes it's still high volume, my point is that doesn't mean high pressure.

 

[streetmachine]

Basically you know nothing about the internals of this eng,stock/rebuilt ?,if it is a stock RV eng.it should have the roller type timing chain no nylon to worry about,RV engs.tend to have lower miles on them,I would pull the intake & inspect,you can see the top of the timing gear through the holes in the block,If its nice & clean in the valley & the chains not nylon the eng. may be stock low miles or rebuilt,me personally I would run a stock pump unless the eng.is heavily worn & or has low oil PSI.

I have the car in storage but, I did take a quick look the other day. It is a stock 75 440 and out of a truck application which I believe to be RV based upon everything I can see so far. Also has a Thermoquad, cast iron intake with the EGR valve still on it, and the kickdown linkage had to be from a truck because the rod was different compared to a car application.

Anyways, I believe the engine to be stock as the car doesn't have much lope. Sounds like a stock 440 and idles fairly smooth. I did change the valve cover gaskets several years ago and it looked clean inside. Thank you all again.

 

[66Satellite47]

There are a few different RV versions. A '75 truck motor is probably one of those. I can't tell much of anything from "lope". I need to check what the parts are. If I recall the most RV's had a very different head compared to auto and truck applications.

 

[streetmachine]

There are a few different RV versions. A '75 truck motor is probably one of those. I can't tell much of anything from "lope". I need to check what the parts are. If I recall the most RV's had a very different head compared to auto and truck applications.

Thank you. I'm going to have to check the casting numbers when I get a chance. Going off of the distributor pad the numbers I have there 5T440 with an E afterwards and then on the bottom there is a 9 that I can see so far. I'm curious about the cylinder heads so I'm going to have to look into that further.

 

[Cartel]

Here are all 3 oil pumps a Melling M-63 , M-63HP , and the High Volume pump off my 1970 383 HP motor.
From what I understand the only difference in the M-63 & M-63 HP is the spring in the HP is stiffer creating more pressure and the HP has a tag on it stating such.
The High volume pump is a taller housing to accommodate the taller impeller to pump more oil. I did read somewhere that you should not run the HV pump at W.O.T. for more than 30 seconds at a time or you could suck the oil pan dry so maybe others here can debunk / verify that as I am not sure.
View attachment 1194847
View attachment 1194853

Is there a way to verify the HP spring? I been getting returned junk from rock auto lately and I got the HP pump but it makes a rattling sound when I shake it.
Its not the pressure release cause I removed it to test. I heard the spring should have a purple paint code I see nothing.
mine looks to be 2-1/4 inches

thanks


**edit I finnally got thru to melling.
stock spring is "pink" and same 2-1/4 length but the wire dia. is 062 on stock and 072 on HP
and the hp spring is supposed to be "plain" hope thats what I got...