Opinions

[1BLUEMOFO]

Im gonna start a build for my Fury soon. Gonna be building a mild compression stroker.. With future plans of adding a single turbo, or Procharger setup. Just curious as to what you guys think about all the stroker kits on the market. Ive heard alot of people talk trash about the 440 source cranks, right know im leaning towards the Hughes engines kit..http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/products.php?partid=24497
Any opinions or experience would help. Thanks

 

[alleyoopmgv]

I haven't heard to many good things about the 440 source either.

 

[RacerAL]

look into OHIO Crankshaft...they are competitvely(sp) priced and good looking stuff,at least the 2 seperate kits that i have seen.

 

[1BLUEMOFO]

Forgot about Ohio Crankshaft,, ive heard of them on another forum.. Ill have to look into that.

 

[1BLUEMOFO]

451 VS 493???? I found a 400 block that i couldnt pass up.. So now im tossed up on what i want to build..lol

 

[Gary67]

I know of a good running 493 pump gas b body that was driven hundreds of miles to and from Carlisle last year that still ran 11:40's at Atco. I would probably do the 493 in your application and save that 400 for a more race type application. Either way you will probably wonder "what if" you went the other way....lol

 

[1BLUEMOFO]

True, but ill probably say ''damn'' when i see the receipts from the build...lol

 

[Rob R]

In my opinion all these off shore kits are the same...there's nothing wrong with 440 source kit's...His stuff is the heaviest that I've come across but really now for $1500 what do you want.
Every offshore kit should be checked by someone who knows what to look for...Scat...Eagle..K-1..440'SRus all of them..!!
Try and buy the lightest crank you can and get the weight written on your bill or you crank might gain 12 lbs in transit...and if they say it doesn't matter how much the crank weighs because you balance it...move on...you don't need a 100 lb crank...IMHO
To say that one particular $1500-$2000 kit is better than another just doesn't hold water...one might be prettier but there is no #1 kit... I've build engines using them all and I wouldn't build an engine with anyone of them out of the box...Check Everything...!!!

 

[696pack]

In my opinion all these off shore kits are the same...there's nothing wrong with 440 source kit's...His stuff is the heaviest that I've come across but really now for $1500 what do you want.
Every offshore kit should be checked by someone who knows what to look for...Scat...Eagle..K-1..440'SRus all of them..!!
Try and buy the lightest crank you can and get the weight written on your bill or you crank might gain 12 lbs in transit...and if they say it doesn't matter how much the crank weighs because you balance it...move on...you don't need a 100 lb crank...IMHO
To say that one particular $1500-$2000 kit is better than another just doesn't hold water...one might be prettier but there is no #1 kit... I've build engines using them all and I wouldn't build an engine with anyone of them out of the box...Check Everything...!!!

I TOTALLY AGREE.

I have a 440 Source stroker kit in my 69 six pack Bee and it is just fine.

I will go one step further and say that checking should not be limited to "off shore" crank sources but ALL U.S. made units as well. Quality control seems to be a thing of the past these days with items like this. Anyone that thinks they can buy something off the shelf and install it is taking a big chance.

When I have a high performance engine built EVERYTHING is checked. When it comes to balancing the shop I use doesn't even follow the + or - 2 grams that MANY of the old professional racers would allow, it is ALL "0" tolerence. If you are going to do it, do it right. Rotating mass is a HUGH horsepower sucking force and if it isn't balanced and tolerenced properly it creates unnecessary wear and chance for disaster.

 

[1BLUEMOFO]

Thanks for the help guys,, im on a roll now.. Just found a 68 440' block standard bore for 300 bucks.. Im not gonna have enough for paint by the time i quit collecting these blocks..lol

 

[BLWN1]

Needs more Turbo....

 

[Budnicks]

Im gonna start a build for my Fury soon. Gonna be building a mild compression stroker.. With future plans of adding a single turbo, or Procharger setup. Just curious as to what you guys think about all the stroker kits on the market. Ive heard alot of people talk trash about the 440 source cranks, right know im leaning towards the Hughes engines kit..http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/products.php?partid=24497
Any opinions or experience would help. Thanks

If you plan on using them {Hughes} check out them on the Google search "Huges Engine Complaints" there's some alleged complaints, alleged in customer service & quality, alleged inferior parts the past few years, alleged bad attitude... I would highly suggest, Just do your due diligence & research 1st... There are some supposedly better & way more expensive stroker cranks & kits out there, that aren't always worth the extra $$$ either... Just don't go cheap on the rods & pistons... 4340 Forging or Billet is still 4340 whom ever it comes from, the machine work is what's critical... What's your budget ?? what's your time frame ?? what's your expectations ??... If you go with a low deck/B block, you will need the mains cut to B specs & counterweights {7.2" max diameter, 7.125" is better & lighter} reduced/machined/ground to the proper sizes... By the way, I've had great success with some 440source stuff... I had a 4.15" 100% USA Made Platinum stroker kit in my last car, it lasted 7+ years running a limited schedule & running well into the 9's {with an occasional 300 shot blast of N20, well into the 8's} before I sold the car 4+ years ago & it's still racing today... 440source also have some 100% USA Made stuff too, not all their parts is/are imported, there are some real hatters out there, spreading lies... For the most part, the foreign/Chinese cast Stealth Heads are their biggest selling imports... IMHFO you have to check anything you buy, no matter who it comes from any more, there's way too many horror stories, out there when buying parts today... I hope you know a good & reputable automotive machinist, you will need one... There are people that have issues even from the more reputable 100% USA Made guys too.... You can't believe everything you read on the WWW either, people have an agenda of their own, sometimes too... A block girdle is a really good idea too, quality studs & hardware everywhere is also a must, especially with any boosted, N20, Turbo or Blown engine combo, if you plan on running it hard "ever".... Mancini Racing, Ohio Crankshaft, Ray Barton, 440source, Indy, MRL, among many others out there... A Callies Billet 4.25" Hemi Crank, is what I use to run years ago, made for running heavy boost, in both a 10:71 Blown Max Wedge or 12:71 Blown Milodon Mastodon Hemi, both on Alky, in my old 23 Altered & they ain't cheap either, the crank alone is twice the cost of a 440source complete kit... How fast do you want to go ?? How much can you spend ?? How high will you spin the engine ?? How much boost are you thinking of running ?? How heavy is the car ?? What kind of trans will be behind it ?? all these questions & many, many more need to be addressed, long before you buy...

 

[Budnicks]

451 VS 493???? I found a 400 block that i couldnt pass up.. So now im tossed up on what i want to build..lol

the 451 is much cheaper usually because you can use a 3.75" stroke 413-426-440 forged crank, inexpensive, readily available pistons too & then have it machined/ground to fit the low-deck 400 B Block, the 493ci in a RB block, will need a 4.15" stroker crank... there is the 3.90" stroker too, using a 413-426-440 3.75" crank, offset ground &/or welded, then turned down to 2.20" on the rods, then the mains to B-Block specs, then the radius reduced to 7.20" minimum {BBC size big ends on rod journals}... Bore diameter in inches x bore x stroke in inches x # of cylinders x .7854 = CI's

 

[tallhair]

the 451 is much cheaper usually because you can use a 3.75" stroke 413-426-440 forged crank, inexpensive, readily available pistons too & then have it machined/ground to fit the low-deck 400 B Block, the 493ci in a RB block, will need a 4.15" stroker crank... there is the 3.90" stroker too, using a 413-426-440 3.75" crank, offset ground &/or welded, then turned down to 2.20" on the rods, then the mains to B-Block specs, then the radius reduced to 7.20" minimum {BBC size big ends on rod journals}... Bore diameter in inches x bore x stroke in inches x # of cylinders x .7854 = CI's

Re: the 451, put a set of aluminum Stealth heads, aluminum intake, water pump housing, and move the battery to the trunk and that's a hell of a lot less weight on the car and the front end than a stock 440 with all of the grunt.

 

[Budnicks]

Re: the 451, put a set of aluminum Stealth heads, aluminum intake, water pump housing, and move the battery to the trunk and that's a hell of a lot less weight on the car and the front end than a stock 440 with all of the grunt.

Good point every little bit of weight makes a difference in a performance build, it's all about power to weight ratios.... the 400 Low-deck B Block is lighter lower narrower & as a bonus also has the strongest main webs & caps other than the 426ci Hemi... win - win - win, weight, size & strength...

 

[383man]

I also use a 440Source stroker kit. I use a 440 block with the 4.15 crank that is 493 cubes at .030 over. Has 10.6 pump gas comp and good quench with Indy EZ heads. I drive it to the track and race it just like I drive it thru the full exh. At 3700 lbs its run 10.70's so far and has been holding up good for just over 2 years. Ron

 

[Crizila]

Im gonna start a build for my Fury soon. Gonna be building a mild compression stroker.. With future plans of adding a single turbo, or Procharger setup. Just curious as to what you guys think about all the stroker kits on the market. Ive heard alot of people talk trash about the 440 source cranks, right know im leaning towards the Hughes engines kit..http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/products.php?partid=24497
Any opinions or experience would help. Thanks

Gonna be difficult to have it both ways ( normally aspirated and blown ). Build for one or the other, and start with a HP # goal.

 

[benno440]

muscle motors do an awesome kit, i used them over all the others for my 505.
http://www.musclemotorsracing.com/

i have also heard that 440 source kits are actually veru good quality now a days

 

[Meep-Meep]

K1 Technologies has very good feedback. I bought their crank and rods for my hemi and the parts are extremely nice.

 

[dvw]

Don't waste money, just build for the turbo . The stock stroke 400 is more than adequate. We run a turbo 360 with stock rods, crank,mildly worked heads, exhaust manifolds, no intercooler, blow through carb. In a 62 Savoy with a 3.23 and 275 radials it's run 10.27 @ 132. That should be plenty quick.
Doug