• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Orange ignition module

old guys rule

FBBO Gold Member
FBBO Gold Member
Local time
1:52 PM
Joined
Sep 14, 2016
Messages
1,449
Reaction score
504
Location
Jacksonville, FL
I've been hearing a lot of guys complain about the orange ignition module being unreliable. What's everyone using as an alternative?
 
I've been hearing a lot of guys complain about the orange ignition module being unreliable. What's everyone using as an alternative?
There was a gentleman on here selling the old orange (80’s units NOS) you could search it out or I could find it in my pics later
 
It can be said that if you have a newer orange ECM in the car, you should also have comfortable socks and shoes.
I had a chrome box for years, it crapped out recently. I now have this:

ECM 6B.JPG


HR 1.JPG
 
Last edited:
I use NORS Standard LX101's and NAPA TP51's made in USA ones. Easy to find on Ebay for 20-25 bucks.
 
I have a couple of the old orange Mopar boxes as well as an old (but new in box) one.
I'm finding myself doing that with most of the parts I fetch for Fred anymore - old stuff that's
new/unused seems to be the way to get around questionable quality of today's parts.
 
Only issue with theres that I have heard about with all the failures is it is not a real transistor. and hate it is :Mopar authorized"
 
I've been hearing a lot of guys complain about the orange ignition module being unreliable. What's everyone using as an alternative?
YES.....THE BEST ALTERNATIVE IS TO REVERT BACK TO POINTS AND CONDENSER METHOD.......realizing you will lose 50+ blazing HP and increase in MPG, etc. Everything promised with ECU is smoke and mirrors.....
BOB RENTON
 
YES.....THE BEST ALTERNATIVE IS TO REVERT BACK TO POINTS AND CONDENSER METHOD.......realizing you will lose 50+ blazing HP and increase in MPG, etc. Everything promised with ECU is smoke and mirrors.....
BOB RENTON
I wish the red x was still available. I’m guessing you also think bias ply tires are still the cats meow? Are you typing this using a telegraph? Do you even have a starter on your car, or do you use the hand crank still?
 
YES.....THE BEST ALTERNATIVE IS TO REVERT BACK TO POINTS AND CONDENSER METHOD.......realizing you will lose 50+ blazing HP and increase in MPG, etc. Everything promised with ECU is smoke and mirrors.....
BOB RENTON
I run points and condenser, but if you don't use NOS parts, you're exposed to the same quality issues that accompany electronic ignition components.
 
I run points and condenser, but if you don't use NOS parts, you're exposed to the same quality issues that accompany electronic ignition components.
Especially condensers. The new ones are garbage. I run points in my dual point in my 66. I get my tune up parts from Halifaxhops and yes I have bought extras. I have a simple Pertronix in mysingle point 70 distributor. It has been flawless for years.
 
I have had one "orange box" failure since I converted from points ignition in 2011. That orange box that failed was part of the original Mopar Performance conversion kit. Worked fine for about two years and one day, went to start and nothing. Luckily, car was in my garage so no big deal and easy to fix with installation of a new orange box. About 5 years ago started having mechanical issues with the Mopar performance distributor. Bought a same brand replacement from Mancini Racing. That one also had other issues so returned it for refund and went to a "Firecore" brand distributor. Great build quality, easily adjustable curve and overall excellent quality.
Never had any ignition issues since.
I have a spares survival kit that I carry in the trunk. Consists of new resistor, coil, orange box, rotor and volt ohm meter. Figure that I can solve most any ignition problems with what's in the spares kit. Not much in the distributor to go bad other than the reluctor coil which is quite un-likely as the current it sees is minimal. I tore apart the failed orange box to see what was inside and figure out what failed. It was a small transistor on the circuit board that was defective. I have read of folks that tore various versions of the orange boxes that failed apart. In some of those accounts, they stated that they had an internal alternate type transistor to do the switching of volts to the coil that the original design large TO-3 style case transistor on the heatsink on the front of the box did. did. In these accounts, the large front visible simulated transistor was basically a prop and there for appearance only..
 
I wish the red x was still available. I’m guessing you also think bias ply tires are still the cats meow? Are you typing this using a telegraph? Do you even have a starter on your car, or do you use the hand crank still?
I use a pull rope to start.....and magneto ignition....works every time.....nothing wrong with bias ply tires....let's have a "thinking" contest or compare check book balances .......what ever your real name is......
BOB RENTON
 
Whatever ECU box(old or new) U end up with Orange, Chrome, SMP, MSD....
Double check your timing, each ECU may introduce some latency..

Just my $0.02... :thumbsup:
 
You want a quality ECU? Contact Halifaxhops. He has some oldies but goodies and I know he has the tools and tests every one he sells.
 
I would hope that at 82 you'd have more than a 27 year old Bob. WTF is wrong with you and what does your bank account have to do with anything in reference to ignition knowledge???. As for your bank account, I'm sure that many here could put your boasting to shame...
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top