Paint in a can preferences

[Inspector71]

I am changing a car from UU1 blue to Q5 Turquoise. My plan is the pain the frame rails and engine bay while the drive train and suspension are completely out and have the body done professionally later on. I have painted an engine bay this way before with good results but the color was gloss black. Does anyne have any recommendations on which company's spray paint can paints you would use? Thanks in advance for the help.

 

[okiemopar]

I would get it painted when they painted the rest of the car so you wouldn't have a big mis match in the colors. It should cost much more to get it done. Good Luck Ronnie

 

[Cranky]

I would get it painted when they painted the rest of the car so you wouldn't have a big mis match in the colors. It should cost much more to get it done. Good Luck Ronnie

I think you meant to say it shouldn't cost much more and imo, well worth it to go this way too. Rattle cans are not really for painting cars no matter what part you are painting.

 

[kb67mopar]

I am changing a car from UU1 blue to Q5 Turquoise. My plan is the pain the frame rails and engine bay while the drive train and suspension are completely out and have the body done professionally later on. I have painted an engine bay this way before with good results but the color was gloss black. Does anyne have any recommendations on which company's spray paint can paints you would use? Thanks in advance for the help.

Don't waste your time trying to do spray cans. Get an inexpensive hvlp gun and have some paint mixed. I have been using a $10 harbor freight gun and getting fantastic results.

Not to mention you can also catalyze your paint this way to get good hardness and durability. Painting metal flake with spray cans also results in horrible tiger striping

 

[Propwash]

Just like these guys mentioned better out of a gun. Okie brings up a real good point about the mismatch. I will throw out there that most auto paint supply stores and even online now offer a 2K paint in a can, basically meaning it has a seperate vile of hardener contained in the spray can. From what I seen you pop down on the pin on the bottom of the can and it punctures a hole in the center vile, releasing the hardener into the paint. Thus, 2 part just like out of a gun. Flip side is once you punch the pin into the hardener, you have to use it up. Guy at the local paint shop said that once it's punched you have 24 hours or less to use it up before it starts to solidify. This new 2K style can produces much harder paints.

A gun allows obviously better pattern and flow control, it atomizes the paint better and your paint will be in bulk, so spraying different areas at different times will not be as much of a challenge to match one area to the next. Being you're spraying a metallic, it's going to be a little harder than a solid to get uniformed metallic's and hues to begin with. Toss on spray bombing the engine bay and then a different location, different paint, different equipment and a different person spraying the outside..sorry to say the odds are up against you to get a decent match

 

[Photon440]

Inspector71, if you want good paint, and insist on spray cans, it won't be cheap. The high quality 2k sprays are over $20 a can. The durability, shine and quality are great, but you won't save money. And once you activate a can you have to use it all up the same day.
http://www.apstowerpaint.com/product/spraymax-2k-aerosol-spray-paint/35
http://www.66autocolor.com/SprayMax_2K_Aerosol_Auto_Paint_by_U_S_Chemical_p/spm-mix2k.htm

The only time I'll use them is for primer, and even then it's + $12 per can.

-=Photon440=-

 

[kb67mopar]

Inspector71, if you want good paint, and insist on spray cans, it won't be cheap. The high quality 2k sprays are over $20 a can. The durability, shine and quality are great, but you won't save money. And once you activate a can you have to use it all up the same day.
http://www.apstowerpaint.com/product/spraymax-2k-aerosol-spray-paint/35
http://www.66autocolor.com/SprayMax_2K_Aerosol_Auto_Paint_by_U_S_Chemical_p/spm-mix2k.htm

The only time I'll use them is for primer, and even then it's + $12 per can.

-=Photon440=-

Just an fyi, I paid $60 a gallon for my paint. Thats the cost of 3 cans and WAY more paint. Granted I paid cost for my paint but it's not that much more normally.

 

[aldsed]

Hi, I would have to go with propwash on matching the paint. I bought a 69 Roadrunner that was done in Q5 a couple years ago and it had a several big chips in it{engine compartment, dutch panel, deck lid and fender}, that needed to be repainted and blended. It was a really nice job so I wanted to try and save it. It was a pitaaaa to match the paint. I even had the mixing formula from the first paint and it did not match at all. Tried this 3 times. Then I had the paint supply guy come and inspect it with their microscope to get the formula and it still did not match. Finally ended up repainting the whole car to get it to fully match. Q5 is beautiful but very hard to match. Take a look at my photo gallery and you will see the finished product. Just my 2 cents.

 

[tallhair]

Hi, I would have to go with propwash on matching the paint. I bought a 69 Roadrunner that was done in Q5 a couple years ago and it had a several big chips in it{engine compartment, dutch panel, deck lid and fender}, that needed to be repainted and blended. It was a really nice job so I wanted to try and save it. It was a pitaaaa to match the paint. I even had the mixing formula from the first paint and it did not match at all. Tried this 3 times. Then I had the paint supply guy come and inspect it with their microscope to get the formula and it still did not match. Finally ended up repainting the whole car to get it to fully match. Q5 is beautiful but very hard to match. Take a look at my photo gallery and you will see the finished product. Just my 2 cents.

Yes it is beautiful and thanks for the photo's aldsed

 

[Clay Dots]

If you want to use a can method martin senour paints are the best, flow is very nice. Never had a problem and they are available at Napa auto parts. you can also have many paint stores put your paint in an aerosole container/ generally glass and shoot it that way. best wishes CD

 

[krowbar]

Everything is in the prep work. You can make rattle can paint look great as long as you take the proper steps. I would agree with others though if you are trying to color match, paint it all at once.

 

[Inspector71]

Wow, I came to the right place. My apologies for not being more clear with what I want to accomplish. I am not matching color, at least not at this stage but changing it from UU1 to Q5. The drive train and even the entire front suspension, K Frame and all, are out of the car. I need to paint the frame rails, especially where the upper control arms attach, and inside the front valance and nose area. They have surface rust. I was thinking, while everything is out of the car, why not do the engine bay while I'm at it. Trying to get a car with no drive train somewhere for painting, when I'm a year or so away from that, will be a challenge. But, it I could do those areas, and the trunk (no rust) and under the car (no rust) maybe I could get the drive train done next and then have the body painted. Again, thanks for the great advice. I know this is all down the road a ways but I need to make out a plan and budget to finally get this car done.