• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Patina'd RR1 Burgundy 1968 Charger ("Ribeye")

I bought the Harbor Freight cheap one and scraped the underside of Jigsaw...

Jigsaw UC L 15.JPG


I kept breaking the "needles" though. It is a good idea to get a spare pack or more to make sure you don't get down to just a few of the rods still left in the tool. MORE of them working together makes for less damage to the metal.
 
that video doesn't show it going any faster than my torch and scrapers.........of course the large chunks with no adhesion flying off make it look easy :rolleyes:

I have several scrapers of various shapes and sizes, they all get a sharp edge prior to use........ and I round the corners so they don't grab, I even put a slight curve on the leading edge of the blade

the nice part about Mopars, is you don't have to scrape all the metal that gets replaced :poke:

this AMC is as solid as they come....

IMG_20240502_210322051.jpg
IMG_20240502_210328953.jpg
IMG_20240502_210338375.jpg
 
I agree with Eldubb. I have tried a needle scaler before and it sucked! I use a heat gun and scraper, and then finish the job with automotive goo gone. It will remove all the undercoating residue and film. Another benefit is when I'm done I don't have all that **** on my face like that guy did. I also would never use a needle scaler on the backside of a fender like that.
 
I agree with Eldubb. I have tried a needle scaler before and it sucked! I use a heat gun and scraper, and then finish the job with automotive goo gone. It will remove all the undercoating residue and film. Another benefit is when I'm done I don't have all that **** on my face like that guy did. I also would never use a needle scaler on the backside of a fender like that.
I’ve used the needle scaler on the back side of fenders (at a shallow angle) and it never damaged the sheetmetal or the paint on the other side.
 
that video doesn't show it going any faster than my torch and scrapers.........of course the large chunks with no adhesion flying off make it look easy :rolleyes:

I have several scrapers of various shapes and sizes, they all get a sharp edge prior to use........ and I round the corners so they don't grab, I even put a slight curve on the leading edge of the blade

the nice part about Mopars, is you don't have to scrape all the metal that gets replaced :poke:

this AMC is as solid as they come....

View attachment 1665335View attachment 1665336View attachment 1665337

Done that myself a few times and I hope to never do it again.
 
The engine bay has been painted and I'm so glad I bit the bullet and had it done. The "survivor" engine bay left alot to be desired.

HS5McG8h.jpg

6hlGpHah.jpg

YhvqsnSh.jpg

EfiPOATh.jpg

kLeTjynh.jpg
 
Way easier to get it done without having the bay filled. Turn out better too.
 
My paint guy touched up where the undercoating was disturbed for the transmission crossmember, 4 link, and subframe connectors.

IO1LHEuh.jpg

2Ad3xg4h.jpg

dLMopOhh.jpg

xFK73uTh.jpg
 
For a side gig, I part out wrecked SRT8's, Scat Packs, and a few hellcats....so I pulled this 6.4L hemi out of a wrecked 1970 Challenger (of all things!) and the 8HP70 8 speed automatic transmission from a wrecked 2016 Challenger Scat Pack I parted out. The 6.4L only had about 1,000 miles on it...the 8 speed auto has aabout 50K miles on it.

XxtJn58h.jpg

AYa1b0Uh.jpg
 
Driving with a 6.4 in a 1970 Challenger like a 6.4 in a 68 Charger requires more brain activity than a 6.4 in a 2020 Challenger... No computer control of traction/brakes/handling.... So a wrecked 1970 Challenger doesn't surprise me at all...
 
...I'm still trying to figure out what to do for wiring/EFI/etc to put my 5.7 in my Satellite wagon....something "expandable" at a later date, for a procharger....
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top