performer rpm intake install on rb 440 valley pan gasket?

[Brent.S]

Hey every one im sure this topic has be gone over a few times, im going to be replacing the stock intake with a performer rpm and was going to order the felpro

Performance 1215 Intake Manifold Set just wondering if i use all four intake to head gaskets with the valley pan sandwiched in between or ive herd of just using the valley pan and some permatex sealant, not new to working on engines just new to the mopar lifestyle hahaha any help is appreciated​

stock heads, stock block, has been rebuilt previously unknown machine work

 

[Kern Dog]

Regardless of what any car guy says or writes, I always put the paper gaskets on both sides of the valley pan. One gasket goes on the head, the valley pan goes on, one gasket goes on the valley pan, then the intake goes on.
Be sure to use a non hardening sealant on the intake manifold bolts since they thread into the head and into the lifter valley. A lack of sealant can allow oil vapor to come up through the intake threads and leave oil in the valley pan. NO RTV either, it needs to be a non hardening sealant.

 

[RemCharger]

It was factory designed to use the pan only. The sealing ribs are there to be crushed, which will not happen with the paper gaskets. They throw in the extra paper ones in case the surfaces are all out of whack.
Put the intake on clean dry and mocked up to check for angle issues.

 

[RemCharger]

The paper gaskets can lead to heartache.. " just sayin"

Thread 'Big block paper gasket install' Big block paper gasket install

 

[Don67Satellite]

This debate is one of those that will never die. The fact is you can do it either way. It's your car, your choice.

Many lifetime engine builders will tell you one way or the other.

How well YOU install it is the key, gaskets or not, so results may vary.

Good luck.

 

[Bee1971]

"has been rebuilt previously unknown machine work"

Yet individuals still say , The factory only used the valley pan

Well of course they did , everything was brand new 50 years ago

 

[RemCharger]

Does anyone care to know what the torque required by the manufacturer to adequately crush the sealing ribs is ??

 

[Don67Satellite]

Does anyone care to know what the torque required by the manufacturer to adequately crush the sealing ribs is ??

 

[33 IMP]

Does anyone care to know what the torque required by the manufacturer to adequately crush the sealing ribs is ??

I'd like to know. Aluminum and iron intake?

 

[Don67Satellite]

Performer RPM #7193

 

[RemCharger]

I'd like to know. Aluminum and iron intake?

This is a 66 book. The 72 book shows a reduction of 10 . Don't have a 69 book. What would be the reasoning of reducing torque on an aluminum manifold? Fear of it getting bent?

 

[Don67Satellite]

This is a 66 book. The 72 book shows a reduction of 10 . Don't have a 69 book. What would be the reasoning of reducing torque on an aluminum manifold? Fear of it getting bent? View attachment 1796980

Yeah I wouldn't want to go above Edelbrock's recommended torque on an aluminum manifold. Just softer metal versus cast iron boat anchor.

I wasn't gonna weigh in how I did mine to avoid the blah blah blarggagaga about it, but wth...

My 7193 is torqued to 25 ft/lbs on a set of 452 iron heads, using the 1215 valley pan, and a paper gasket on the intake side, but not on the head side, with sealant of course.

No vacuum leaks, sealed just fine. Only bothered with the 1 gasket because I bought into the "don't want to mark up the new intake surface" argument. This is the "Nick's Garage" method that he says to use.

However, Pete from Pete's Garage will use only the valley pan with sealant even on aluminum intake with aluminum head engines. You will get different answers from everyone, claiming to be the expert on the subject.

Both these guys are seasoned engine builders so that's why I say you can do it either way, IMHO.

 

[1967coronet]

I have used both ways, with the paper gaskets and also without.
aluminum intakes and cast.
Napa gasket sealer when useing the paper gaskets, Dry on the pan except for silicone in the corners were the head and block meet.
I use some pipe dope on the intake bolts to stop any oil wicking.
Cast intake and aluminum I just tighten them down with a criss cross pattern starting in the center.
I have never used a tourqe wrench on a intake.

 

[RemCharger]

Thanks for that Don, I had to check out the Pete guys video. He is a smart guy from what I saw. I did the same combo of trick flow heads and RPM for a customer, worked perfect.

 

[#41]

I always check the fit dry, then if all looks good just the metal pan with a little bead of high temp silicone on the bottom wherever there are ribs, and more silicone around each intake port on top. The silicone is probably overboard, but it's good insurance.

 

[Brent.S]

thanks for all the input guys much appreciated

 

[33 IMP]

With my special case I use two gaskets with sealer. (Bathtub with the top of the ports cut off, the rest ported to maxwedge.)
On a stocker with no decking/head milling problems, I just use a new bathtub as designed.... no gaskets.

 

[DeltaV]

replacing the stock intake with a performer rpm

Just curious if you are going to use a real performer rpm or a cheap knockoff/imitation performer rpm from somewhere overseas?

 

[WileE]

There is no "use pan only" or "always use paper gaskets". It all depends on the geometry. If all fits with just the pan, ( as factory new ) just coat with Indian Head, and you're done. If there's been any machine work, paper gaskets, either one or both, may be necessary. Trial fit. Use less torque on aluminum manifolds, usually about 10 lb-ft less than iron spec.

 

[Brent.S]

Just curious if you are going to use a real performer rpm or a cheap knockoff/imitation performer rpm from somewhere overseas?

going with the real deal no cheap knock-offs!