Performance 101
Most is covered already & it's a heavy car... Performance 101...LOL.... 1st & foremost... Get some professional cylinder head porting done, port the exhaust manifolds too, they will be a big choke point if you don't {still will be but not as bad} & if you absolutely have to run them {IMHFO your giving up some serious power/TQ, even a shorty header will make more power, than the Iron Manifolds even when ported}, get a mandrel bent exhaust tubing w/either an X or H-pipe installed in a 3" exhaust, w/free flowing mufflers, get a K&N X-treem or other brand of gauze type air filter {the engine is just a big air pump, what comes in, must get out}, get a "How to tune a Holley carburetor CD/Book" & an assortment of larger accel. pump discharge squirter's, maybe even a better set of billet metering blocks, like from Quickfuel or other supplier, maybe even 50cc accel. pumps &/or different pump cams assortments, better fuel pump {or even a electric free flowing fuel pump} & quality fuel filter, larger sending unit 3/8" minimum or #6A/N lines & adjustable "bypass style" fuel regulator preferably, a much hotter Chrome box at-least CEI ignition & hotter coil, w/ultra low ohm resistance plug wires to get all the spark to the plugs you can get, then make sure you get a camshaft compatible with the iron manifolds/instead of headers {if you go that route}, I would highly suggest you talk to an expert camshaft mfgr., matching light weight valve train & get there recommendations, last is traction aids, better shocks, CalTracs possibly, maybe some 4.30:1 gears {with a tall tire will still be street drivable}, to help a heavy car moving much easier & along with your sticky drag radials @ a minimum {taller & wider is better}, for when you at race track, light weight rims & performance tires, lighten anything you can that is reciprocating or moving weight {Crank, rods, pistons, valves, retainers, etc.}, lighter/stronger driveshaft, better/quicker shifting transmission, add a quality deep pan & trans-cooler also to help keep it cool with a higher stall converter... Lighten the car up, where ever possible, "it's all about power to weight ratios", lighter the car, the less power it take to move it faster, a better HV or other style quality oil pump & higher capacity baffled w/windage tray, in bigger/better oil pan, then move the battery to passenger side of the trunk, for much better weight transfer... There are cast iron headers like the 413-426ci MW/Super Stock 62-65 B-Body iron, they ain't cheap like $900, they are very heavy manifolds too, but they will flow "much better" than any of the other iron HP manifolds... Remember the engine is just a small part of getting it down the track, having the car set up & working properly, is just as important to getting lower ET's.... Not all this is necessary, to run 12's but all is recommended, especially on a heavy car, especially since your already handicapping yourself with the iron manifolds choking down the engine from being able to freely breath... Headers would certainly help to make power & torque, that will let the engine breath much better, opens up far more options for making power easily.... There are a ton of books out there, to get the much needed knowledge, not waste a bunch of money doing things twice, it's such a small investment & you will have them to refer back to, when needed... There is also a few decent books, especially for the level of performance your looking for, that are kind of, slightly outdated, but will gives very useful/good formulas/guidelines to go certain speeds/ets, at a certain weight at certain HP/TQ/Ci.... Mopar Performance "Chassis 9th Edition" #P5007160 for Speed Secrets & Performance for Modifications for Mopars RWD racing cars... MP "Engines 9th Edition" #P5249704 for tons of Speed secrets/modifications for Mopar race engines... try Mancini Racing for these books & many more
