Picked up new motor this weekend may need smaller CAM.....

[2quick]

So I gave the Cylinder Pressures to Tim @ Hughes engines and this is what he said:

New cam
Dur @ .050 - .255 in. / 259 ex.
Lift .600 in. / .615 ex. "Could increase the lift a bit will look into that"
110 LSA "wider LSA will spread power out"



Absolutely do not change the heads! "Big Mopars have air flow issues to begin with"
850 - 950cfm carb w/4150 - 4500 adapter "Adapter will create more plenum volume and increase power"
Compression ratio is probably more closer to 11.6 - 1

In the end approximately 550 trq 500 hp

3500-5000 500trq
5000-6000 550hp

Converter Stall between 3000-3500 "3200"
3.55 - 3.90 gears "whichever I want"

 

[67Satty]

You got a good deal. I would at least try it out first before changing anything. How can any of us determine for you what is too radical to drive on the street? That's pretty subjective.

My only concern would be upgrading your chassis so you can get it to hook when you take it to the track. A '66 B-Body doesn't have much room for a big slick. Even a 9X28 slick just barely fits. Look at some of Mike Gaine's threads about what he has had to change and in invest in to get a 66 B-Body ready to handle a motor that makes this kind of power.

 

[2quick]

So Chassis mods already include Us Car Tool Complete frame stiffing package (as seen in photos) . Probably going to a Mini Tub and definitely installing 6 point bar..

Also:

QA1 K memeber
Boxed LCA's
QA1 UCA's
Borgeson steering box
Wildwood master and hrdraboost from Tallon hydraulics

 

[Seventy]

So I gave the Cylinder Pressures to Tim @ Hughes engines and this is what he said:

New cam
Dur @ .050 - .255 in. / 259 ex.
Lift .600 in. / .615 ex. "Could increase the lift a bit will look into that"
110 LSA "wider LSA will spread power out"



Absolutely do not change the heads! "Big Mopars have air flow issues to begin with"
850 - 950cfm carb w/4150 - 4500 adapter "Adapter will create more plenum volume and increase power"
Compression ratio is probably more closer to 11.6 - 1

In the end approximately 550 trq 500 hp

3500-5000 500trq
5000-6000 550hp

Converter Stall between 3000-3500 "3200"
3.55 - 3.90 gears "whichever I want"

SO you are going to keep the intake, heads, and that valve train? I am surprised the motor is only going to be 550hp, I am too used to chevys, lol, 454 with pocket ported oval port heads, 600ish roller cam, 10.5-1, with an 850cfm carb 550hp and about $2500, lol...

The good part is, you can always do anything you want with it later, try it if its not as streetable as you want, change it, cams are cheap...


I know I had some motors in other cars (chevelles and camaros), that were just NOT fun to drive, if I build a prostreet car that is one thing, but a street tire car, I always changed them up to something street ez... Good brakes, nice idle, OK fuel economy, etc,,,

If I were in your shoes, I would wing that top end to someone who wants to pay for it,put a fast fi injection system on a basic aluminum intake, and maybe even a set of source heads, with a mild cam.. Figure $200 cam, $1000 for the heads, $1000 for the FI, $100 for the intake, $200 gaskets and bolts, Ill bet the money from the race parts will fund more than it costs you. I ALSO bet the car will be faster, lol... And guarantee it will be worth more, drive better, last longer, and use less gas...

You would be shocked how many times too hot of a motor made cars hard to sell, I had a 71 malibu ss cloner, with a big block stroker motor, nasty cam, always sounded like it was about to stall, lol... vac pump for the brakes, the whole nine yards, it smelt like a gas station at idle standing behind it, but was all motor 700hpish, reverse valve body, high stall, etc.. (sligt tub, some wide mt streets on it, not full prostreet). Everyone came and looked at it, loved it until I took them for a ride, then no one liked it, 6 months I held and drove it all summer, it sucked to drive, lol.. over the winter I scored a 454 fi motor/tranny take out, threw that in there, and sold it to the 2nd person that originally looked at it the summer before...

NOT that you are in the market to sell you car, it looks awesome, I love the body work... keep up the good work, good luck with what ever you decide..

 

[Longroof]

SO you are going to keep the intake, heads, and that valve train? I am surprised the motor is only going to be 550hp, I am too used to chevys, lol, 454 with pocket ported oval port heads, 600ish roller cam, 10.5-1, with an 850cfm carb 550hp and about $2500, lol...

The good part is, you can always do anything you want with it later, try it if its not as streetable as you want, change it, cams are cheap...


I know I had some motors in other cars (chevelles and camaros), that were just NOT fun to drive, if I build a prostreet car that is one thing, but a street tire car, I always changed them up to something street ez... Good brakes, nice idle, OK fuel economy, etc,,,

If I were in your shoes, I would wing that top end to someone who wants to pay for it,put a fast fi injection system on a basic aluminum intake, and maybe even a set of source heads, with a mild cam.. Figure $200 cam, $1000 for the heads, $1000 for the FI, $100 for the intake, $200 gaskets and bolts, Ill bet the money from the race parts will fund more than it costs you. I ALSO bet the car will be faster, lol... And guarantee it will be worth more, drive better, last longer, and use less gas...

Sounds like you are more familiar with Chevrolet's. It will be quicker with the OP plan here.

 

[2quick]

SO you are going to keep the intake, heads, and that valve train? I am surprised the motor is only going to be 550hp, I am too used to chevys, lol, 454 with pocket ported oval port heads, 600ish roller cam, 10.5-1, with an 850cfm carb 550hp and about $2500, lol...

The good part is, you can always do anything you want with it later, try it if its not as streetable as you want, change it, cams are cheap...


I know I had some motors in other cars (chevelles and camaros), that were just NOT fun to drive, if I build a prostreet car that is one thing, but a street tire car, I always changed them up to something street ez... Good brakes, nice idle, OK fuel economy, etc,,,

If I were in your shoes, I would wing that top end to someone who wants to pay for it,put a fast fi injection system on a basic aluminum intake, and maybe even a set of source heads, with a mild cam.. Figure $200 cam, $1000 for the heads, $1000 for the FI, $100 for the intake, $200 gaskets and bolts, Ill bet the money from the race parts will fund more than it costs you. I ALSO bet the car will be faster, lol... And guarantee it will be worth more, drive better, last longer, and use less gas...

You really are a Chevy guy LOL

Chevy Mopar
$200 for a cam $399 Solid roller
$1000 for heads $2500+
$1000 for EFI $2200+
$100 for intake $250+

 

[Hyper Henry]

Sounds like you are more familiar with Chevrolet's. It will be quicker with the OP plan here.

Amen! Completley disagree with Seventy! How often do you want to go slower?? Save us the BS Chevy talk; not everyoner wants a belly button car/motor and worth peanuts when/if you resale!!
Keep everything you got and run it as is and go from there. Looks like motor is out so yeah maybe do a cam and intake change while its easier. DO NOT get rid of those heads and valve train!! You will kicking your a$$ later on.

 

[66Satellite47]

I'll jump in here with my 2 pennies. Those are mighty big heads for street driving, however with a good gear (4.10?) & the 3500 type converter, will probably work fine. Your cylinder pressure looks real good, better than mine. My combo has ported EDE Performers, 10.5 CR, Victor intake, 850DP, antique Cam Dynamics 260/265 @.050 - 565/585, 4.10 gear w/3500 converter, 28" tires, 3650# w/me. It works fine on the street although I'm headed toward mostly strip use, only 600 - 800 street miles. I should mention I have 500" though. With my Victor manifold the top of the air cleaner is right at the hood line. I got the extra tall Hemi scoop & have lots of clearance, so the standard Hemi scoop should work OK with the Indy manifold. Also the Hughes cam selection sure looks real good to me, I'm thinking of that one for myself. One more thing, with that short block I'd sure try to keep the RPM 6000 or less. You did get a heckuva deal on that if all the parts are good!

 

[2quick]

I'll jump in here with my 2 pennies. Those are mighty big heads for street driving, however with a good gear (4.10?) & the 3500 type converter, will probably work fine. Your cylinder pressure looks real good, better than mine. My combo has ported EDE Performers, 10.5 CR, Victor intake, 850DP, antique Cam Dynamics 260/265 @.050 - 565/585, 4.10 gear w/3500 converter, 28" tires, 3650# w/me. It works fine on the street although I'm headed toward mostly strip use, only 600 - 800 street miles. I should mention I have 500" though. With my Victor manifold the top of the air cleaner is right at the hood line. I got the extra tall Hemi scoop & have lots of clearance, so the standard Hemi scoop should work OK with the Indy manifold. Also the Hughes cam selection sure looks real good to me, I'm thinking of that one for myself. One more thing, with that short block I'd sure try to keep the RPM 6000 or less. You did get a heckuva deal on that if all the parts are good!

Hows the 4.10 working out. where I live its kinda rural with long windy 45 mph single lane roads but being jersey, definitely a bunch of intersection traffic. There will be times i need to get on the interstate but not very often. I found a Dana 60 with 4.10's and posi from a 92 ram truck for 200 bucks. think it may be worth it to cut it down with Moser ends and axles. Probably $600 complete.
What rpm @ 60mph you turning? 28" tires here also. If you had a chance to change would you go down or leave alone?

 

[66Satellite47]

Hows the 4.10 working out. where I live its kinda rural with long windy 45 mph single lane roads but being jersey, definitely a bunch of intersection traffic. There will be times i need to get on the interstate but not very often. I found a Dana 60 with 4.10's and posi from a 92 ram truck for 200 bucks. think it may be worth it to cut it down with Moser ends and axles. Probably $600 complete.
What rpm @ 60mph you turning? 28" tires here also. If you had a chance to change would you go down or leave alone?

For what I'm doing the 4.10's are just right. They work pretty good at the strip and fine on the street since I don't do much freeway driving with it. At 60 MPH it's about 3000 - 3100 RPM, 70 MPH it's like 3700 - 3800 RPM. I wouldn't recommend 4.10's for a lot of freeway driving, but it does help with the steetability of the big heads & cam. I've been a Dana guy for a long time. They don't break. Sounds like you have a good deal on the Dana too, along with the motor. My Dana is narrowed with Moser axles. Seems great.

 

[2quick]

For what I'm doing the 4.10's are just right. They work pretty good at the strip and fine on the street since I don't do much freeway driving with it. At 60 MPH it's about 3000 - 3100 RPM, 70 MPH it's like 3700 - 3800 RPM. I wouldn't recommend 4.10's for a lot of freeway driving, but it does help with the steetability of the big heads & cam. I've been a Dana guy for a long time. They don't break. Sounds like you have a good deal on the Dana too, along with the motor. My Dana is narrowed with Moser axles. Seems great.

Are you mini tubed? How much narrower than stock? I know 66 - 67 B bodies have the narrowest rear off all the B bodies (I don't remember exactly what it is, but narrower) Do you know how much was taken off each side from factory 8 3/4 size or Dana if that's what it came with?

 

[Longroof]

If you are mini tubbed why restrict yourself to only a 28" rire? I know that those cars are pretty tight on tire clearance but with mini tubs how tall of a tire can you fit?

 

[HT413]

Fwiw, my 69 belvedere is mini tubbed, 4 link. I run 4.10's on 30" X 12.5" et streets (with room to spare) and it's a ball to drive. I keep it to 65mph right at 3000 rpm on the highway, but 99% of my cruising is along northern nj 45mph back roads or some local downtown ice cream shops and the car is perfect for that.

 

[Mike Gaines]

2quick, I think you and Mike should consider working out a trade - top end for top end.

Mike's Indy SEZ (non-max wedge port) heads, Indy Dual Plane and even the Mighty Demon 850 sound a lot more in line with a nasty street/strip monster, and if I recall, mike was recently lamenting his lack of max wedge ports.

The Dude abides.

I would trade him my INDY heads (non-max wedge ports) / Indy Hi Volume Dual Plane and 850 Mighty Demon...That would be good for both of us. I want a "race only" setup that he has and...I have the best street/strip setup there is for sale...trade would be good. Heck I even have a set of Hooker Super competition Headers ( 1 7/8 tubes) which are absolutely perfect for his setup to trade for his TTI's. My headers have the complete 3" exhaust system already setup with cut outs and MagnaFlow Mufflers all to fit a 66-67 Coronet.

 

[66Satellite47]

Are you mini tubed? How much narrower than stock? I know 66 - 67 B bodies have the narrowest rear off all the B bodies (I don't remember exactly what it is, but narrower) Do you know how much was taken off each side from factory 8 3/4 size or Dana if that's what it came with?

Yes I have tubs with the springs moved in. My Dana is about 48 3/4" - 49" flange to flange. My street wheels are 15 x 10 w/5" backspace, 325/50 x 15 BFG Drag Radials. My slicks are 11.5 x 28.5 on 15 x 10 w/4.5" backspace. The slicks have good clearance to the springs and quarter. The amount you narrow the axle housing depends on what backspace wheel you want to run. Be sure to check the backspace availability on the wheels you want to run before narrowing the axle. Not all wheels have a good backspace selection. I intended to run a 11.5W x 29.5 slick (13 3/4" face x 30.5" actual), but there was not enough clearance at the front of the wheel well (less than 1/4") so I went with the 11.5 x 28.5. My 325/50 x 15 BFG's are 10 3/4" face x 28" tall and they have plenty of clearance all around.

 

[HT413]

If you do plan to minitub, keep in mind that a 4 link allows you to easily adjust the axle position front to back, so you can maximize the room. It's a big job that requires some mods, but just sayin.

 

[dieseldazzle]

Long thread, read most of it. Gotta say tho Im curious how your gear vendors is gonna work with 3.90 rear gear and 3800 converter. I would think it will be on the converter alot when in high gear. Let me know how it works out.

 

[66Satellite47]

If you do plan to minitub, keep in mind that a 4 link allows you to easily adjust the axle position front to back, so you can maximize the room. It's a big job that requires some mods, but just sayin.

Real good point, if you go to the 4 link you can easily gain 1" + of wheelbase adjustment. Of course setup & adjustment could be a problem.

 

[malex]

That sure seems like a big cam / lots of duration for a 10.5 cr. It would be interesting to know the cranking pressure of it. Wonder how well it performed.

 

[Kern Dog]

Long thread, read most of it. Gotta say tho Im curious how your gear vendors is gonna work with 3.90 rear gear and 3800 converter. I would think it will be on the converter alot when in high gear. Let me know how it works out.

I had a Gear Vendors unit with a 3.91 and a 3000 stall converter. The combo sucked *** from the top of my crack to the skin of my sack. Throttle response was terrible at 55-65.