• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Pinion Angle with Cal Tracs

Not to hijack, but the full boat CalTracks setup is around $1,600 IIRC and the Street Lynx system with Viking double adjustable coil overs is $2k-$2,100. I understand that many are running great times w/the CalTracks, but my thinking is spend the extra $500 and get the best rear suspension from both an engineering AND functional perspective.
Am I wrong/missing something in my thoughts?
 
Show me a FAST mopar with a Street Lynx system, I am not talking about a 4 link set up, I mean with a SLSystem, from their add, Our signature rear triangulated 4-bar suspension for street/handling use!!! it say handling, not Drag race, Cal trac is for Drag Race & street
 
Last edited:
Not to hijack, but the full boat CalTracks setup is around $1,600 IIRC and the Street Lynx system with Viking double adjustable coil overs is $2k-$2,100. I understand that many are running great times w/the CalTracks, but my thinking is spend the extra $500 and get the best rear suspension from both an engineering AND functional perspective.
Am I wrong/missing something in my thoughts?

Not sure where you came up with $1600 for the Calvert setup. A package of their split-mono springs (including bushings), caltrak bars, and shocks at 4 corners is currently exactly $1000. You could add a set of their sliders to the mix, and you’re still under $1,200. Not to mention it’s a bolt in deal. I’m sure the street lynx system is great..... but it’s also over twice as much $$$. My opinion: Dollar for dollar, the Calvert setup is tough to beat.
 
The only thing I would change is the use of the caltrak slider instead of the Afco american made slider.The Afco sliders came with SS springs rear spring eye bushings.I had to buy a set of spring eye bushings from them to use that slider with those springs.
Me thinks that these vendors that we buy from would tell us of the differences as a salesman slash tech guy knows the 2 possibilities!

3.21.12 (39).JPG 3.24.12 (21).JPG 4.7.15 005.jpg 4.7.15 006.jpg 5.15.16 063.jpg 5.31.15 009.jpg 5.31.15 024.jpg 6.1.16 038.jpg 6.1.16 039.jpg
 
Street Lynx system, I believe, is NOT a race setup and not a true 4 link....like one fella mentioned above..."show me a racer with Street Lynx setup"
Just the opinion of a racer who has his car Mini-tubbed with 11.5 wide Hoosier slicks (with 13.2" section width) and the complete Cal Trac setup and is completely convinced that the only thing better is a Fully Narrowed rear end with "BIG" slicks (14" or more wide) and a true 4 link rear end (NOT street lynx) or ladder bars.
My car leaves the start line with the front wheels about 12" up in the air for at least 20 feet....it HOOKS, and runs 10.15 in the quarter at 3850lbs (with 5 gal gas and driver).

20171001_125031.jpg
 
@Wookie316 runs a street lynx in a 4000+ pound charger and does very well. If using a system like the street lynx you need an anti roll bar, street lynx is a triangulated system which can and will work in a race car but a parallel 4 link system is preferred.
 
Street Lynx system, I believe, is NOT a race setup and not a true 4 link....like one fella mentioned above..."show me a racer with Street Lynx setup"
Just the opinion of a racer who has his car Mini-tubbed with 11.5 wide Hoosier slicks (with 13.2" section width) and the complete Cal Trac setup and is completely convinced that the only thing better is a Fully Narrowed rear end with "BIG" slicks (14" or more wide) and a true 4 link rear end (NOT street lynx) or ladder bars.
My car leaves the start line with the front wheels about 12" up in the air for at least 20 feet....it HOOKS, and runs 10.15 in the quarter at 3850lbs (with 5 gal gas and driver).

View attachment 606795
Mike,what makes you think a bigger tire would make you faster??You are getting it done on a small tire:thumbsup:
 
Mike,what makes you think a bigger tire would make you faster??You are getting it done on a small tire:thumbsup:
Hemi-it is...... I think the way a big tire and a 4 link or ladder bar setup could help me is with the "reaction time" on a .400 Pro Tree, which is what I run in some of the classes here in California. That damn first 8" or so on a .400 Pro Tree is a killer.
Yup, I got the car to run very, very consistent ET's and I can cut a decent light on the full tree by anticipating when the green is going to come on (and, as you know, you HAVE to have a great reaction time plus be right on your number to win) but now the real problem is when I run classes where they use a .400 Pro Tree. The light cars (Darts, Dusters, Vegas, Pintos, etc) with big tires and ladder bars or 4 links really have an advantage on the reaction time over my 3800lb sled with Cal Tracs and only 11.25" wide slicks. Those light cars with big tires and ladder bars or 4 links by nature just move quicker....
 
My bracket racing experience taught me a couple things: a smaller tire can go quicker/faster with the proper suspension setup AND really good traction. A bigger tire does help if you race at a wide variety of tracks with varying traction conditions. Mike I don't know if the bigger tire would help with reaction time, but a light car sure will. Simple physics, inertia. More factors enter into getting a heavy car moving quickly compared to a light car (especially with consistency).
 
@Wookie316 runs a street lynx in a 4000+ pound charger and does very well. If using a system like the street lynx you need an anti roll bar, street lynx is a triangulated system which can and will work in a race car but a parallel 4 link system is preferred.
Right now, 85% of my drive time is spent driving to and from local car shows, up and down the Gulf Coast for the week of Cruising the Coast, to and from Mopars at the Battleship Alabama (about 2hrs on the Interstate each way) and the other 15% for occasional rips down the 1320. I want to keep my stock gas tank (unless I have to change to a fuel cell one day due to track rules).
So I am open to rear suspension options, and they DO NOT have to be "reversible".
 
I see the Street Lynx as a superior rear suspension from an engineering perspective. Wookie says it is great on the street, and obviously works well on the track. 85%+ of my Roadrunner's drive time is AWAY from the 1320, cruising around.
Seems to me to be a better choice for MY application.
I do appreciate ALL of the replies and input.
 
The un-equal length 4 bar system w/diagonal bar and coil overs is proven for race applications for many years. Similar to many stock street setups. Lighter weight compared to Caltracs w/split mono leafs, I'm not sure. Would like to see the data. My recollection from years ago was that 4 links took lots of sorting out. That was the advantage of the ladder bar over 4 link. Ladder bars easier to get really close, 4 link tougher. I followed my chassis builders recommendation on ladder pre-load on my Arrow & the car left hard, straight & true from the git-go. My observation of 4 link guys was it took lots more effort. Today's knowledge base is a LOT better today though.
 
4 links took lots of sorting out.
Looks like a lot of future questions and observations to be posted here when that time comes.
:lowdown:FBBO Forum members :)
I started out here about the time I got my Roadrunner, that was over 4 years ago, and I wouldn't be as far along as I am without all of you!
 
I notice most everyone still has their shocks angled. When I moved my springs inboard with Caltracs, we made a new upper tubular shock mount and mounted my shocks verticle. Anyone see any improvement by doing so or not?

20170126_211923 (003).jpg
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top