Please help, lifter rattle won't go away
- Thread starter 747mopar
- Start date
I got the time to pull one today and tear it apart, everything looked good. Before I tore them apart I measured how far down you could depress the lifter before it got stiff ".067". Once I tore it apart and cleaned the oil out of it it returned to being firm all the way to the top (the oil in it was what wasn't allowing it to come back to full stroke "something is jacked with these things". I also talked to Comp today "not allot of help" they basically covered all the same bases that we have and then told me to send them to them so they could look at them, but I did ask about the earlier lifter and they claim that they only make one style. Does anyone have a lifter to compare to this?
RustyRatRod
Well-Known Member
There'll likely be no difference in the lifter body. Where the difference will be is where the pushrod plunger sits. The plunger for the early lifters sits down farther than the later ones. That Comp guy is a dumbass. They make both lifters. They are on Summit.
67 B-body
Well-Known Member
They do in fact have two different lifter seat heights...... But,,, there is a difference in some overall lifter bodies as well.. The Mopar Performance lifters are allot different than the Hughes EDM oil face lifters....
I use the EDM solid lifters in my engine with custom length pushrods and 1.6:1 rockers..
I use the EDM solid lifters in my engine with custom length pushrods and 1.6:1 rockers..
RustyRatRod
Well-Known Member
If it came in the kit, the lifter part number may not be available. Plus, if it was boxed with the wrong lifters, that could be his whole problem.
dpstark2
Well-Known Member
I don't have a lot of experience with this stuff, but I just feel like throwing in my $0.02 re: Comp products. My first 440 build died a painful cam-related death about 2 years ago after 20 minutes of break-in. I think with this very same cam. Something went wrong, and the cam ate one lifter. Took the bearings, cam... everything with it. After that, I made sure every lifter worked correctly on the second build. In my second batch of 16 comp lifters, one was completely stuck and could not be compressed after soaking in oil. Opening it up, it didn't even have oil inside it. After cleaning it and reassembling it, it worked fine. My only guess is that the tiny oil fill hole was blocked.
Another lifter could be compressed, but would not return to the top. That one, I ended up replacing. However the replacement lifter was completely different! Same part number, different lifter! Comp sent me a new one under warranty, and that one was the same. All of this is to say I do not have faith in their parts. The gave me a new rocker arm set, cam, lifters, and timing chain when the first one died, but it still cost me $1k in bearings and machine work...
To this day, I have one lifter on my passenger side that ticks a bit when cold. They all hold pressure, but I have a feeling one doesn't like to fill as quickly as the rest. It fills better when I don't start on the choke, but in the winter, that's not really an option. When I get around to changing manifolds for EFI, I will be pulling everything and checking all the lifters. The motor has a few k miles on it, so I don't think anything is in danger. I have pulled the pan and there was no metal or anything... oil pressure is great... but it makes me nervous and I would never do a Comp cam again.
Another lifter could be compressed, but would not return to the top. That one, I ended up replacing. However the replacement lifter was completely different! Same part number, different lifter! Comp sent me a new one under warranty, and that one was the same. All of this is to say I do not have faith in their parts. The gave me a new rocker arm set, cam, lifters, and timing chain when the first one died, but it still cost me $1k in bearings and machine work...
To this day, I have one lifter on my passenger side that ticks a bit when cold. They all hold pressure, but I have a feeling one doesn't like to fill as quickly as the rest. It fills better when I don't start on the choke, but in the winter, that's not really an option. When I get around to changing manifolds for EFI, I will be pulling everything and checking all the lifters. The motor has a few k miles on it, so I don't think anything is in danger. I have pulled the pan and there was no metal or anything... oil pressure is great... but it makes me nervous and I would never do a Comp cam again.
Garys1969RR
Well-Known Member
747, I would try the stock rocker arms and push rods just to see if that works. Or you can adjust the valve lash down more. Are they all rattling or just a few? Let us know what happens.
Don't think that is an option, for one I don't have any of it (the motor was really rusted so I ended up pitching everything but the block) and I had it milled to zero deck height plus the heads needed allot of surfacing to clean up the rust pitting around the water passages. I'm sure using stock a valve train would increase the preload significantly. I did look on Summits web site and your correct, 68 and up are different "going to check that first".
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That really sucks, I've been a loyal Comp Cam guy and have had nothing but good results, I hope they aren't slipping. As of now all I know is that one lifter wasn't pumped all the way up and it's had about 20-30 minutes of run time on it. Hopefully I'll figure it out soon. Thanks guys
RustyRatRod
Well-Known Member
Remember though, that for a LONG time, Comp was about it for cams. So it stands to reason they've sold more. Plus, nobody ever hardly spreads the good stories. It's always the bad.
Garys1969RR
Well-Known Member
If its just 1 lifter that has nt pumped up, replace that one. If the rest are working ok, could just be a bad lifter.
It's seems to be all of them and I think I found the problem, I got on Summits sight and started looking at the different high energy lifters and guess what lifter mine looks exactly like "SMALL BLOCK MOPAR" I checked and they have the same lifter bore. The small block ones have the wide oil groove and the narrow groove at the top like mine and the bb lifter has one groove that looks to be higher on the lifter. The one on the left is what I'm supposed to have but mine looks like the one on the right hmmmm. I hope this is it
cdr
Well-Known Member
china made lifters
try these http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...FP0_CuRNf4eVYeH9E7Dny0Q&bvm=bv.44990110,d.aWM
Topline Johnson Hylift Lifters, Call "Paul" direct at 1-800-441-1400 and enter extension #609 when prompted.
try these http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...FP0_CuRNf4eVYeH9E7Dny0Q&bvm=bv.44990110,d.aWM
Topline Johnson Hylift Lifters, Call "Paul" direct at 1-800-441-1400 and enter extension #609 when prompted.
RustyRatRod
Well-Known Member
I see a top and bottom lifter not left and right. Anyway, the bottom lifter has the plunger much deeper. If those are the lifters you have and you have the later (shorter) pushrods, there could be your trouble.
RustyRatRod
Well-Known Member
Look dude. This is real easy to narrow down. Call Summit. Order ONE lifter for a 68 and UP 440 and compare where the pushrod cup is in that lifter to yours. If you have to, take it to the machine shop and get someone to put some calipers on them and take a direct measurement. Calipers can get down into the pushrod cup and mesaure the static height of the lifters. If yours that came out of the engine is shorter in that measurement than the new lifter, there is your problem.
cdr
Well-Known Member
Thanks cdr, I always thought Comp was American made, I'll be switching brands if not. Rusty, no need to take anything anywhere, we have a bigger machine shop then most including mics, calipers etc, I just don't have anything to compare to. I'll take it to a buddies house this weakend to compare but at this point I'm back to believing it's just bad lifters.
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