Please School me on A/C Tools

[HawkRod]

w

what type oa compressors do u have? if its the v twin type he only thing thing that will work right on them is R-12 WITH A GOOD POA VALVE . U NEED A GOOD POA VALVE IN THE BACK OF THE COMPRESSOR TO SLOW DOWN THE FREEON GOING THROUGH THE SYSTEM FOR THE AC TO WOR RIHHT. I LNOW I EWILL GET THE GUYS SAYING IM ALL WE BUT MY COUSIN IS A GREAT AC MECHANIC ON BOH 134A& R-12 WE TRIED 134A IN THE OLD SCHOOL UNITS & IT WILL NO WORK RIGHT . IF U DONT MIND CHANGOMG THE LOOKS GO BUY A 134A CONVERSION ( ROTARY TYPE ALL THE LINE & THE RIGHT PULYS FOR IT TO WORK RIGHT . I HAVE A 72 NEW YORKER WITH A GOOD CHARGEOF R-12 I HAVE 34 DEGREE AIT COMING OUT THE CENTER DUCKS AS FOR THE TOLS WELL U WILL HAVE TO HAVE A VACUUM PAG WITHTHE RIGHT FIRTTINS FOR THE SYSTEM (R-12 OR 134 A ) THE PUPS R NOT INTERNALABLE . DRAW IT DOWN & C IT IT HOLDS THEN CHAGRE IT BACK UP TOILL THE SIGHT GLASS IS CLEAR u can find the ampot of freeon u need from the service book

Thanks for the tips.

I did have a 73 Road Runner that I just sold that did have the RV2 (? twin Mopar style compressor). It was converted to R134a and it worked just fine. But, the units I have now will all be Sanden type compressors with the exception of my buddy's car which is a 64 Impala SS. He may use the old style GM compressor to keep things looking stock. Of course, he would also do a proper conversion to R134a.

 

[HawkRod]

So just an update on where I am with this:

Obviously, working on A/C is not super easy. There is a lot to learn about humidity, temperature, recovery, etc. You guys have given me a great start, but I want to walk before I run. I looked at the Testo 550 gauge set and would love to have it, but I can't justify the cost for the amount of A/C work I will be doing.
Here is what I bought so far:
* Orion Motor Tech gauges. These come with two types of can taps plus hoses, fittings, etc.
* Robinair 15310 vacuum pump
* Mastercool 52220 temp gauge
* Elitech WJL-6000 Freon Leak Detector
* A/C Pro Leak Detector dye (I have an old black light that should work for detection of the dye)

I know this is not a complete tool set for doing more serious A/C work. I will add later as I go along.

Here is my plan:
Using the above equipment, I will "top off" my A/C in my 70 Road Runner. I will tighten the one fitting I suspect as being the culprit to the leak, then add some dye and top off the system (it still functions but is low on freon). I will then check for leaks using both the sniffer as well as the UV dye.

For the other three systems I have to do: All have been completely evacuated (or are brand new in the case of the 67 GTX). So these systems will be gone over and checked carefully. I will use the vacuum pump to verify that the system is sound, but in none of these cases do I need to recover any refrigerant. Once I need to do that, I will look into a recovery tank system so I don't blow refrigerant into the air.

 

[Nxcoupe]

w

what type oa compressors do u have? if its the v twin type he only thing thing that will work right on them is R-12 WITH A GOOD POA VALVE . U NEED A GOOD POA VALVE IN THE BACK OF THE COMPRESSOR TO SLOW DOWN THE FREEON GOING THROUGH THE SYSTEM FOR THE AC TO WOR RIHHT. I LNOW I EWILL GET THE GUYS SAYING IM ALL WE BUT MY COUSIN IS A GREAT AC MECHANIC ON BOH 134A& R-12 WE TRIED 134A IN THE OLD SCHOOL UNITS & IT WILL NO WORK RIGHT . IF U DONT MIND CHANGOMG THE LOOKS GO BUY A 134A CONVERSION ( ROTARY TYPE ALL THE LINE & THE RIGHT PULYS FOR IT TO WORK RIGHT . I HAVE A 72 NEW YORKER WITH A GOOD CHARGEOF R-12 I HAVE 34 DEGREE AIT COMING OUT THE CENTER DUCKS AS FOR THE TOLS WELL U WILL HAVE TO HAVE A VACUUM PAG WITHTHE RIGHT FIRTTINS FOR THE SYSTEM (R-12 OR 134 A ) THE PUPS R NOT INTERNALABLE . DRAW IT DOWN & C IT IT HOLDS THEN CHAGRE IT BACK UP TOILL THE SIGHT GLASS IS CLEAR u can find the ampot of freeon u need from the service book

Im am not starting an online argument. Now, that's out of the way, my results differ from your experience. I have a 66 coronet with factory ac. I charged it using envirosafe refrigerant. (See pic) Mine puts out 38 to 40 deg air from the vents, plenty cold enough for me. I followed their directions on how much to put into an old R12 system for conversion and it always works great. I use this on all my cars. A note, this does use a flammable gas as part of the mixture, so if you ever plan to take it to an hvac pro for work, they will not touch it. I do all my own work, so I don't worry about it. And nope, not concerned a bit about it catching fire, there's chemistry involved.

 

[dmoore]

Too bad you guys aren't closer...I love the older stuff...

 

[threewood]

Good thread. I recently got my EPA 608 Universal and EPA 608 MVAC and started collecting equipment for residential hvac, which really starts becoming an investment.
For MVAC,
-Gauge set
-Recovery machine
-Leak sniffer
-Recovery tank
-Tank scale
-Good temp gauge
-Nitrogen tank and gauges
Additional for residential HVAC,
-Oxy acetylene hvac setup
-Stay Silv 15
-Valve removal tools
-clamp on temp meter/temp probes
-r410a rated manifold / hoses
-Micron gauge

It is pricy but not terrible if you plan to do a few services, component replacements. The big run in residential is that components cannot be bought unless you have a business. I have found some exceptions and noticed Goodmark (Daiken) components are readily available. I plan to service my own system.

 

[Lefty71]

-Leak sniffer

Leaks are a PIA, but bad evaporators are a boone to the service man. I have my best luck using dyes and giving it a little time to leak, if you have the option.

 

[451Mopar]

Good thread. I recently got my EPA 608 Universal and EPA 608 MVAC and started collecting equipment for residential hvac, which really starts becoming an investment.
For MVAC,
-Gauge set
-Recovery machine
-Leak sniffer
-Recovery tank
-Tank scale
-Good temp gauge
-Nitrogen tank and gauges
Additional for residential HVAC,
-Oxy acetylene hvac setup
-Stay Silv 15
-Valve removal tools
-clamp on temp meter/temp probes
-r410a rated manifold / hoses
-Micron gauge

It is pricy but not terrible if you plan to do a few services, component replacements. The big run in residential is that components cannot be bought unless you have a business. I have found some exceptions and noticed Goodmark (Daiken) components are readily available. I plan to service my own system.

Question on the recovery tank(s), Are you using individual tanks for the different refrigerants?
Also, are you re-using the recovered refrigerants, or selling them to a reclamation place?

 

[threewood]

Question on the recovery tank(s), Are you using individual tanks for the different refrigerants?
Also, are you re-using the recovered refrigerants, or selling them to a reclamation place?

I haven't got that far. But EPA regs state a separate tank for each refrigerant. As long as the recovered refrigerant doesn't have contaminates I would reuse it.

 

[451Mopar]

I haven't got that far. But EPA regs state a separate tank for each refrigerant. As long as the recovered refrigerant doesn't have contaminates I would reuse it.

With the cars and house (and appliances) all using different refrigerants, and they keep adding new ones.

 

[threewood]

With the cars and house (and appliances) all using different refrigerants, and they keep adding new ones.

Yep. Recovery tanks are about $100 a pop. I'm planning to work on my own stuff before branching out. R410a for the house and R134 for the cars. Small appliances can be recovered with recovery bags.