Post your 12 second combos

[67 B-body]

so u need a roll bar to run 12's?

no

 

[fatecaptured]

lol, oh they were talking about a 10 sec car..

 

[451Mopar]

so u need a roll bar to run 12's?

11.49 and quicker you need a rollbar. Last year my car was 11.6's at Bandimere (about 6,000ft altitude.)

 

[furyus]

Thanks that's a nice complement coming from someone with a car as nice as yours.

Furyous thats one nice 64 you have. Ron

 

[tallhair]

My old wagon I sold in '05.

360 crate motor / 904 / 9.5 Dynamic converter / 4.56 / 12.49 @ 106 best.
Fun, low maintenence, consistent bracket car.

nice wagon

 

[RustyRatRod]

I always thought the Mopar Performance engine book had nice recipes in it. They are spot on.......except maybe where they use the six pack. It'll surely run the numbers, but I think they were trying more to sell parts with that one. lol

 

[Meep-Meep]

1966 B body est 3700 lbs as raced. P/S, bench seat, spare and jack.

Chassis:
SS springs for 3700 car.
Pinion snubber
4.30:1 gear (although I think 4.10's would be better)
9x28" slicks

Engine:
440 .030" over
KB 237 pistons @ .015" below deck.
OEM steel crank and LY rods
pocket ported 915 heads with 2.14" / 1.81" valves
CR CC's out to 10.1:1
MoPar .455" / 272 cam installed straight up
Intake is factory cast iron
Eddy 750 AFB jetted 4% richer in the secondaries. Primaries are factory calibration.
Hooker 5209 2" headers with TTI 3" system all the way out. Muffs are Flowmasters
Orange box electronic ignition
Holley mech fuel pump with OEM 5/16" line.

Tranny:
Stock rebuilt TF with TCI 11 Street fighter converter.

Car runs 12.80's @ 105 with the slicks and 4.30's and low 13's @ 109 with 3.55's and street tires. All runs are with full exhaust and air cleaner installed.

I need to update the car weight. It was 3900 lbs as raced. I guess that means I'm making more HP than I thought.

 

[383man]

Thanks that's a nice complement coming from someone with a car as nice as yours.

Thank you. Ron

 

[Budnicks]

I need to update the car weight. It was 3900 lbs as raced. I guess that means I'm making more HP than I thought.

Meeps you just got some free HP...LOL... you didn't know you even had

 

[383man]

Thanks that's a nice complement coming from someone with a car as nice as yours.

Thank you. Ron

 

[cwhubb]

@meepmeep you drive an old school gem. you car is what I call a blue collar brawler, not a trailer queen. Back in the day, circa 1978, the rule was you sunk the money into the engine and go fast mods first, it didnt matter if it was a rust bucket as long as it was a beast. People respected that, an all show and no go was an embarassment.

 

[Budnicks]

@meepmeep you drive an old school gem. you car is what I call a blue collar brawler, not a trailer queen. Back in the day, circa 1978, the rule was you sunk the money into the engine and go fast mods first, it didnt matter if it was a rust bucket as long as it was a beast. People respected that, an all show and no go was an embarassment.

Function 1st, back then... we had a good saying for all those show guys, with $20k paint jobs & Billet everything... "no go show boats" or "all the blower none of the boost" or "if you can't get them with HP, then kill em' with Watts" or "no driven' Ivans"...LOL...

 

[cwhubb]

Lmao

 

[Garys1969RR]

69 Road Runner, 3600 lbs, auto with 11 inch converter, 451, 13 to 1 C/R, 509 cam, 915 ported heads, Jegs headers, 3.91 gears, Holley Street Dominator intake, Holley 780. Best E T so far of 12.91@ 108mph, at Bandimere in Colorado. Elevation 5800 feet. You really lose a lot of torque and horsepower at this altitude. You can pick up as much as 3/4 to a full second just by going to an elevation below 1000 feet. It takes a lot of C/R at this altitude to get into the 12s.

- - - Updated - - -

so u need a roll bar to run 12's?

A roll bar can help lower your E T if it ties the front and rear frames together. This reduces body and frame flex on launch. And sub frame connectors have a similar effect.

 

[Budnicks]

69 Road Runner, 3600 lbs, auto with 11 inch converter, 451, 13 to 1 C/R, 509 cam, 915 ported heads, Jegs headers, 3.91 gears, Holley Street Dominator intake, Holley 780. Best E T so far of 12.91@ 108mph, at Bandimere in Colorado. Elevation 5800 feet. You really lose a lot of torque and horsepower at this altitude. You can pick up as much as 3/4 to a full second just by going to an elevation below 1000 feet. It takes a lot of C/R at this altitude to get into the 12s.

.

Congrats, on your high altitude combo, sounds like it works well....

 

[Loukku]

1974 Plymouth Satellite Sebring Plus

My best so far from last weekend.

ET 12.903 @ 107 mph, 1.917 60 feet

Engine:
440 CID, .030" over, CR around 9.9:1
Icon forged pistons
Stock forged crank
Scat H-beam rods
Eddy RPM heads
Eddy RPM intake
Comp XE268H cam
Comp magnum lifters
Comp 3/8 pushrods
Holley 750 vac carb
Crane gold rockers 1.5
Mopar Perf distributor
REV-N-NATOR box

Trans:
Stock transmission
B&M shift kit
Stock 12" converter

Car:
around 3800 lbs
Stock big block suspension
Traction bars
8x26 M/T ET Streets
3.21 gears

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3EkD5o9Zha0

Still needs a bit tweaking.

 

[Budnicks]

Loukku congrats on getting your 74 SSP into the 12 second barrier..., lower gears & a better/looser 10"-11" torque converter will make a noticeable difference... do you have headers ??, what size exhaust ?? I didn't see them listed, they will help about 10% in HP & let the engine breath much better... Lighter rims & larger foot print tire will also help a little too, any weight saving will help, especially in reciprocating weight... it's all about power to weight ratio & good 60'-330' times & traction...

 

[Loukku]

Loukku congrats on getting your 74 SSP into the 12 second barrier..., lower gears & a better/looser 10"-11" torque converter will make a noticeable difference... do you have headers ??, what size exhaust ?? I didn't see them listed, they will help about 10% in HP & let the engine breath much better... Lighter rims & larger foot print tire will also help a little too, any weight saving will help, especially in reciprocating weight... it's all about power to weight ratio & good 60'-330' times & traction...

Good points there. Tnx. Torque converter was in my plans to be changed in the next winter. New tires when these are done. (well that would be easy :laughing6
Just noticed that my M/T´s are 26x10.5 not 8" wide that I listed.
If I lower the gears then i will definitely buy gearvendors as well. I just changed 2.71 to 3.21 cause I spend more time on the streets than strips.
And yes I did forget to mention the headers and exhaust. 1 3/4" primaries and 3" exhaust pipes with magnaflow stainless oval mufflers. Does those headers sound small? I did not buy them, those came with the car.
Camshaft is also something that I could swap if i change converter too. Any suggestions?

 

[Garys1969RR]

Update on 451 in 69 RR. I put in a trans go valve body kit, the TF-2, and a TCI Street Fighter 3000 Stall T Converter, all this into an old T Flite out of a 69 Polara that had 50K easy miles on it. Boy what a difference! Went from 12.91@108 to 12.58@109. Great valve body kit, and the T/C lets the engine get into its power range right off the line!

 

[Budnicks]

Good points there. Tnx. Torque converter was in my plans to be changed in the next winter. New tires when these are done. (well that would be easy :laughing6
Just noticed that my M/T´s are 26x10.5 not 8" wide that I listed.
If I lower the gears then i will definitely buy gearvendors as well. I just changed 2.71 to 3.21 cause I spend more time on the streets than strips.
And yes I did forget to mention the headers and exhaust. 1 3/4" primaries and 3" exhaust pipes with magnaflow stainless oval mufflers. Does those headers sound small? I did not buy them, those came with the car.
Camshaft is also something that I could swap if i change converter too. Any suggestions?

This may seem to be overly **** but... 1-7/8" would be slightly better, but for street driving mostly & a mild combo 1-3/4" headers are workable, just won't flow as well at wide open throttle... "If it were me" I'd go to either a "hydr. Roller" or a "solid Roller" camshaft or a solid/mechanical/lifter camshaft, with more lift rather more than duration changes, your already near the limit in duration for a well mannered street engine, especially for a mostly street driven car, that's if you actually want the best bang for the buck, the most HP/TQ you can get & still be usable... But many less expensive style hydr. cams are really good too, but they also have their limitation in the inherent inferior design too... IMHFO you need to be completely honest with yourself & choose the right thing for how you will be using the car & your reasonable expectations, with in your own budget, you have a great base & some great parts to begin with, but that will limit your choices... I don't really like to give specific camshaft recommendations, I leave that to the actual camshaft experts... But you will need to have or know certain things when you choose a camshaft, when choosing the proper, style size style camshaft, be completely honest & don't use something that will make the car un-manageable for how you actually intend on using it... you need to now how heavy the car is, what the head flow is, what size the combustion chamber is, what the thickness of the head gaskets are, what compression ratio, what style of piston & how far are they down in the cylinders or are they zero deck etc., then do you have the proper valve reliefs for more camshaft, what bore & stroke sizes, does the engine have a good leak down/ring &/or valve seal, whether you have enough valve to piston clearances {is critical}, what gear ratio, what trans mods/style, what specific torque converter, what type driving/intended usage {what is your actual expectations}, what induction is on-top, what type of overall fuel system {is it adequate for what your trying to do}... that will ultimately be used to start with, then you can actually choose a cam, until you know all those factors, your just guessing & wasting your money... then knowing how to actually tune it &/or set it up correctly, is just as important, if not actually more important... If you don't know how to, I would highly suggest investing in a few "How to books", knowledge is a great thing, spend your money correctly, the 1st time & it will be far better in the long run.... Good luck either way & Happy Moparing