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Post your 12 second combos

The 1.90 sec 60ft and the 117 mph actually indicates that a bunch of time is bringing given up mid track.
 
BSB67 said:
The 1.90 sec 60ft and the 117 mph actually indicates that a bunch of time is bringing given up mid track.
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That’s funny because the cam that was spec out was for great midrange power
 
dcala84141 said:
That’s funny because the cam that was spec out was for great midrange power
Click to expand...
I don’t mean the motor. I’m referring to the driving and shifting or something

I have a time slip here with a 1.923 sec 60ft and a 117.49 trap speed, almost identical to yours. My et was 11.982. Like 33IMP said, it’s in the first half of the track.
 
Most of the forum members who post in this section are far more experienced than I am. Still, I will throw in a couple of thoughts.
Both my wife and I are 100% dedicated to rowing our own gears! Unless being on the sharpest edge of time consistency is your goal, Unless you are petrified by a chance of breaking something, I'd say in particular on the launch through the 1-2 shift, and if you enjoy shifting for yourself, have fun with your 3 pedal setup like we do! Victory is even sweeter when you win with a manual transmission, and identifying and meeting the challenges adds another level of enjoyment and "proving your talent, and improving your skills" is even more on display to yourself and others.
Your ET vs MPH looks like a problem similar to mine, at least what has been my problem for years with my manual transmission equipped 70 Roadrunner 440 6bbl.
I'm not as high MPH, I'm in the 107-108 MPH range, but I recognize the disparity of your high MPH to relatively slow ET, and I believe your greatest gains can be found from the launch to the 60 ft mark.
POWER SHIFTING CUT 3-4 tenths off my 1/4 mile ET!
I have been consistently over 2 seconds to 60 ft. but I run around 13.35-13.5 quarter mile times when I should be in the high 12s
FOCUS on your launch and 60 ft times, and you definitely can cut 3/10ths to 1/2 second off your ET.
I hope to make some passes Wednesday for the first time since I had 2/3rds of the stuff in my signature installed, most of which was to allow for a much better 60 ft time.
The HitMaster launch control requires a hydraulic throwout bearing and a ceramic metallic dual disc clutch was recommended and switched to.
The same guy makes the Clutch Tamer which has a similar function but works with a mechanical clutch.
Check them out when you can!
ClutchTamer.com
 
More seat time. More watching the tach.
Every shift should be *BANG*.. target RPM.
 
dcala84141 said:
Wasn’t watching the tach, just shifting by feel
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I went without a tach for a few years. I definitely had a problem with the valve springs. Right after the hard pull really started to roll in, it would fall off. Sure enough, I had the stock springs tested when I had the new ones installed (yes, I was that sure I needed them I bought them and then had the old ones tested out of curiosity and to weigh my "instinct"). Night and Day, literally an entirely new experience. What a RUSH.
Anyway, I got a nice Autometer tach with an external shift light. The tach fit perfectly recessed in the factory tach/clock location, and the shift light on the dash above it.
Now I have a stand-alone shift light that is triggered by my Dakota Digital RTX gauge system. The tach is awesome, but the shift light is something I rely on, and I think us 3 pedal guys benefit the most from a shift light, being as "busy" as we are on the track.
 
RemCharger said:
@padam
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It was kinda hard to tell from the video, but I think the 2-3 shift might be worth. 100 alone.

Everyone is giving solid advice, especially 33 imp.

At 117 mph engine is making enough power to get way into 11’s.

When I ran my best of 11.824 my 60’ was 1.688, so I think if you’re serious, that’s where you should concentrate. BUT, once you bolt on those slicks, if you have a weak spot in your driveline, you WILL find it.
 
biomedtechguy said:
I went without a tach for a few years. I definitely had a problem with the valve springs. Right after the hard pull really started to roll in, it would fall off. Sure enough, I had the stock springs tested when I had the new ones installed (yes, I was that sure I needed them I bought them and then had the old ones tested out of curiosity and to weigh my "instinct"). Night and Day, literally an entirely new experience. What a RUSH.
Anyway, I got a nice Autometer tach with an external shift light. The tach fit perfectly recessed in the factory tach/clock location, and the shift light on the dash above it.
Now I have a stand-alone shift light that is triggered by my Dakota Digital RTX gauge system. The tach is awesome, but the shift light is something I rely on, and I think us 3 pedal guys benefit the most from a shift light, being as "busy" as we are on the track.
Click to expand...
I tried a shift light years ago and for me it was a disaster. Almost like going from an analog gage to a digital, I couldn’t get used to it.

To tell you the truth, I have gotten away from even watching the tach.

With the faceplate gears in the trans now, if I keep the gas down the shifts are almost instantaneous. I might try a shift light again.
 
There is a guy racing a 4speed Roadrunner or GTX in the F.A.S.T series running 10’s I think on skinny street tires. I don’t know how that’s possible.
 
padam said:
I tried a shift light years ago and for me it was a disaster. Almost like going from an analog gage to a digital, I couldn’t get used to it.
To tell you the truth, I have gotten away from even watching the tach.
With the faceplate gears in the trans now, if I keep the gas down the shifts are almost instantaneous. I might try a shift light again.
Click to expand...
At first I only looked at my tach, once I got it, for information, to see how many RPMs I had been hearing and feeling equated to. I use it to check idle speed, but the shift light is my WOT go to for me to grab the next gear.
There has even been the rare occasion that I "didn't see" the shift light but shifted anyway. I believe that's an advantage to having gone by "feel" for quite a while.
Faceplate gears...I have done power (no lift) shifts since I installed a rev limiter. Big ET improvement. I have to have a 5 speed, and I'm going to use the Passon 855 as long as it holds up, but I am looking at alternatives should the 572 require one.
 
Hi - It's Scott. With 391 gears what rpm are you at when you shift? 1/4 mile right?
Al K said:
Meep;I'm very impressed that you're running those numbers through that restrictive air cleaner. The combo I'm planning is very similar;your engine specs are close,3.91 gear with the new 9X29.5 slicks are in my plans. I was hoping to run mid-to-high 12's myself;looks like it's possible.
Click to expand...
 
vsj100 said:
Hi - It's Scott. With 391 gears what rpm are you at when you shift? 1/4 mile right?
Click to expand...
Im not sure this is the answer to your question (engine build should determine shift point).
But assuming he achieves mid/high twelves, and assuming a 727, with 3.91 gears and 29.5 tires, at 108 mph (typical for mid twelves 1/4) it should be slightly over 5000 in the lights, (5052 oby the calculator I use).
 
Thanks -
33 IMP said:
Im not sure this is the answer to your question (engine build should determine shift point).
But assuming he achieves mid/high twelves, and assuming a 727, with 3.91 gears and 29.5 tires, at 108 mph (typical for mid twelves 1/4) it should be slightly over 5000 in the lights, (5052 oby the calculator I use).
Click to expand...
Mine had a 391 sure grip and I was told that it had run 12s in its prior life. It just seems like the ol 440 would be screaming at the end of 1/4 mile. I saved the 391 and recently installed 323.
 
I've got a 440 with 3.91s, but it's been a long time since I ran a 1/4 mile with it. The only 1/4 mile track within 150 miles is ten minutes away..... and I can't use it. (Pomona). Two 1/8 miles lots closer than Famoso. I actually prefer 1/8 now.
 
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