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Pot Metal Stud Repair

Moparfiend

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Has anyone successfully repaired a pot metal stud such as on a body tag? I am looking for a robust way to do this and was thinking of doing this way if nobody knows a better way.

Take a thin copper wire and wrap it around the broken pot metal stud to the desired length. Then using a micro torch solder the wire to the stud. If I am careful I should be able to get the stud hot enough to then accept the solder with lots of flux.

What do you guys think?

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My ex brother-in-law was a welder, and tried a repair once, key work, ONCE. The pot metal basically melts like solder.
 
Hobby shops carry many various types of small diameter thin wall tubing, usually 6-8" lengths with minimal wall thickness. Take a short piece of tubing and a machine screw of desired length and similar diameter to original pot metal stud, cut off the screws head. Use tubing as a joiner on whats remaining of pot metal piece where threads were and new machine screw. Use a 2 part epoxy to fix it together. Might need some washers or some kind of spacer behind where the badge mounts to allow for tubing length under nut.
 
As I recall on my rear panels, I ground down machine screws of the correct dia leaving a flat tab on which to apply JB to create new 'studs'. A surface to adhere to. Also carefully drilled holes, not to go through the other side, and used a sheet metal screw minus the head, to accommodate just a couple of threads as a support base, then applied JB. PIA, but it did the trick.
 
I've always either A) sand the entire backside flush with the emblem body and used a super thin black two sided tape trimmed down smaller than the emblem itself , or B) bought another good one. I've never had any luck at a repair attempt that was a complete success. they failed during the tightening of the fasteners
 
Decided not to put holes in the car for emblem's. Going to use emblem tape that 3m sell's. Saw on Orange county chopper's where they used that tape and said it is not coming off. Just my two cent's. On that. But my tail light bezels where in bad shape where the stud's came through and drilled them and taped them and put all thread in the holes and used the nuts with the washer on them. It work's fine. Many way's to fix thing's for sure. Hope you get it figured out. :thumbsup:
 
Any touch would melt it quick and unrecognizable like 69bee said. Epoxy or J.B. weld
 
Has anyone successfully repaired a pot metal stud such as on a body tag? I am looking for a robust way to do this and was thinking of doing this way if nobody knows a better way.

Take a thin copper wire and wrap it around the broken pot metal stud to the desired length. Then using a micro torch solder the wire to the stud. If I am careful I should be able to get the stud hot enough to then accept the solder with lots of flux.

What do you guys think?

View attachment 987485
Got a picture of the back? What kind of emblem?
 
Ive made round flat tabs drill a hole in the center for the stud tack weld the stud to the tab so it looks like a paper /wall tack. The epoxy the flat section to the insignia.
 
I drilled a hole in my C-pillar trim and threaded a bolt into it then ground it down to a point and used a speed nut on it. It works just like the original. Just a little harder metal for the speed nut to cut into. There was enough depth so as to not come out the other side.
 
You might want to look into some stuff called Bondic, you can get it on Amazon. It's a light-cured adhesive that is very durable. It's the same stuff used for fillings at the dentist. I've used it twice and it seems to be very strong. You could glue a new screw to the backside and be done with it.
 
Has anyone successfully repaired a pot metal stud such as on a body tag? I am looking for a robust way to do this and was thinking of doing this way if nobody knows a better way.

Take a thin copper wire and wrap it around the broken pot metal stud to the desired length. Then using a micro torch solder the wire to the stud. If I am careful I should be able to get the stud hot enough to then accept the solder with lots of flux.

What do you guys think?

View attachment 987485
I used JB Weld and it worked great!! Good Luck.
 
3M makes a host of peel & stick. Used throughout the auto industry. Try the 3M picture hanging strips to be on the safe side, works great with zero damage, cheap too. Cut to size.
 
Muggyweld. Find it. It works great on potmetal and has a slightly lower meting point.
 
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